Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Reds from Barrel, a 2016 from Bottle, and 2017 Whites from Bottle

Gregory Gouges called the vintage “friand” (lovable) and fresh, and so he will bottle earlier than usual in order to preserve those qualities. Some wines had already been racked into stainless steel holding tanks when I visited. Bottling was scheduled to begin in December with the village Nuits.

Yields in 2017 were close to 40 hl/ha (high for this estate), with Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges coming it at about 35 hl/ha. There was some green harvest to contain the yields. Malo-lactic fermentations were very fast for both colors, finished by Christmas. (Continue reading here.)

Recently Tasted Northern Rhône Wines (Cornas, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Brézème) from 2015 and 2016: Alexandrins, Balthazar, Blachon, Darnaud, Durand, Entrefaux/Tardy, Farge, Faury, Fayolle, Perréol/Monier/Monier-Perról, Tâche, Texier

All wines are red except as otherwise stated. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Chantal RÉMY (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel

This is the former Domaine Louis Rémy in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis.

Florian Rémy took over from his mother Chantal a few years ago. As to be expected, there were a few wobbles at the beginning, although the wines overall were solid. With this vintage, though, I think he’s gotten it down very well. 

Harvesting began on 14 September and lasted four days. The wines contain about 10% whole clusters and alcohols are around 12.5º. There was no acidification. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine G. ROUMIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 9 August 2018.)

My description of 2015 vintage conditions at Roumier and notes on tasting these and other wines from barrel are here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine G./Christophe* ROUMIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2015 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 17 January 2017.)

Christophe Roumier said that overall yield in 2015 was just below average (whereas 2016 is the smallest since 1971). There is “a little” whole cluster fruit in these wines. Malolactic fermentations finished in June and July and the wines were racked in the beginning of September. He likens the vintage to 2005 but with more roundness, and at least for his wines, I agree with the comparison.

Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are sold under Christophe’s name. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine FOURRIER (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2017 Tasted from Tank Samples

The vintage was characterised as "rather easy" to do. There was some green harvest.  Picking began on 7 September with the white, then with reds. Malo-lactic fermentations began at the end of winter and finished in May. All wines tasted below had been moved to stainless steel holding tanks a week or so previously, and the estate will bottle in January or February 2019. Grapes were 100% destemmed, as is customary. Normal quantity. No acidification or chaptalization. Alcohols: 12.8-13º, up to 13.4º for grand cru. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine CHANDON-DE-BRIAILLES (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 9 August 2018.)

Exemplary wines here, as always. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Bruno CLAIR (Marsannay) -- 2015 from Bottle

(Originally published 10 August 2018.)

This set, all red, is good, but with a notable jump in quality from the first two to the last two. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TRAPET Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 10 August 2018.)

Fortunately, much of those who drive the astronomic prices of top Burgundies have yet to discover the heights to which Jean-Louis Trapet has taken this venerable estate. This is a super sample of wines, and as you can see from my notes on vintage conditions on these and other Trapet wines from barrel and bottle following my November 2016 tasting at the property, this is one of the elite collections in all of the Côte d’Or for the vintage.

As with many 2015s, these wines have already begun to close, but there is a brilliant future for them. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TRAPET Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2015 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle

(Originally published 31 January 2017.)

Jean-Louis Trapet said that harvesting began on 5-6 September and evidently went very rapidly as he also said that he finished just before the rains (which came only a few days later). Most of the malolactic fermentations finished in May, but for one wine, it was still continuing when I visited in early November 2016. Usually he uses about 30-40% whole clusters, but in 2015 he used 70% (and for the the Gevrey-Chambertin “Capita"and Chambertin, 100%).

The estate is organic and biodynamic.

These are astonishing wines, and as in 2005, the Chambertin is a candidate for the greatest wine that I tasted from the vintage. They are worth a special effort to seek out. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TOLLOT-BEAUT (Chorey-les-Beaune) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 11 August 2018.)

These wines are done well and provide accessible, pleasurable drinking. All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Armand ROUSSEAU Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 11 August 2018.)

My review of the vintage at Rousseau and tasting of these and other wines from barrel is here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine ARMAND ROUSSEAU Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2015 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 7 January 2017.)

As with the majority of producers, quantities are small for 2015 at Rousseau. Harvesting began on 3 September. There was minimal chaptalization to extend fermentation. Alcohols are all at least 12.5º. As usual, no whole clusters here, but a small amount of stems was added to the fermenters. Malolactic fermentations finished in March.

These are excellent to great wines, yet having visited this estate annually for a quarter of a century, my feeling is that the very greatest Rousseau wines are not from the ripe vintages such as this one and 1990, 1999, 2005, and 2009 (which bring the highest prices at auction), but rather from the more classic Burgundian vintages such as 1991, 1993, 1998, and 2001. We’ll see what time gives us here.  

The overall style of the vintage here is one of finesse and some may be surprised by the lighter colors and textures of the wines. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Simon BIZE (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 12 August 2015)

Notwithstanding the tragic death of Patrick Bize a few years ago, the superb quality at this estate continues. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine David DUBAND/François FEUILLET (Chevannes) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples

You may find some of these wines under the Francçois Feuillet label; they are the same as those under the David Duband label — Feuillet owns the land for those wines and Duband sharecrops.

Organically farmed. (Continue tasting here.)

Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Combining two posts originally published 12 August 2018 and 24 November 2017.)

My notes on tasting Grivot’s 2015s from barrel samples is here.  (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2015 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 20 February 2017.)

Étienne Grivot said that harvesting began on 10 September and went to about 18 September. He waited to harvest because the grapes up to then had a bitterness in them. 

A normal vintage here is 300 barrels; in 2015 it was 240 barrels (and in 2016, it is but 200 barrels).

Étienne described the vintage as classic/modern. The bunches were entirely destemmed but the berries were kept whole. Malolactic fermentations were very late — among the latest ever that he has experienced, which is saying something given that over the 30 years that I have been visiting this estate, there have been many vintages where I tasted wines where malolactic fermentations still had not finished by October or November.

Grivot is a consistently reliable and outstanding producer, and fans will have nothing but pleasure with these wines. (Continue reading here.)

Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle

My report on tasting the 2016s from barrel is here. To recap, the estate lost 2/3 of its production. Picking began on 24 September, by which time there was equal ripeness for both the primary and secondary bunches, and so both went into the wines. Technical director François Millet thinks the second crop may have given extra energy to the wines.  (Continue reading here.)

Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 31 December 2017.) 

As with virtually everywhere in Chambolle-Musigny, the vines suffered greatly from the April 27/28 frost, especially from sunburn as the sun passed through the ice. Overall loss was 70% of a normal crop (that is, production was only 30% of a normal crop). Even that could have been worse, but as with other producers I visited, the second crop manage to catch up to the first crop by harvest, which began on 24 September. Because the first and second crop were at the same state of maturity, the grapes from the second crop were included in the wine.

Other than the Bonnes-Mares, no pigeage (punching down) was used on these wines. Malolactic fermentations finished in June and July, which is normal for de Vogüé.

Technical director François Millet has become known for his poetic descriptions of each vintage. For 2016, he said the message is the month of May: not too hot, not too cold, lots of flowers. (Continue reading here.)

Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel

Chambolle-Musigny suffered greatly from the frost in 2016; wines that had low yields from frost in one year generally produce abundantly in the following year. As a result, de Vogüé did a green harvest to limit the yields, explained longtime technical director François Millet. Harvesting began on 2 September, and yields were in the range of 30-35 hl/ha, as opposed to an average of 25 hl/ha. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Marquis d'ANGERVILLE (Volnay) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 13 August 2018.)

Simply one of the reference-point domaines in Burgundy. Pure purity. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Michel LAFARGE (Volnay) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

Lafarge continues as one of the reference points for Burgundy, a string that is unbroken for decades. But beware that like d’Angerville, the wines can go through long periods of slumber before they wake to show all their glory. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Michel LAFARGE (Volnay) -- 2015 Tasted from Barrel and a 2014 from Bottle

(Originally published 10 January 2017.)

Frédéric Lafarge said that overall, in 2016, he had 35% of a full harvest, with the whites suffering the worst. This comes after the three straight years of hail in 2012-13-14 and the small amounts in 2015 (plus hail in 2008, 2006, 2004, 2001, etc.). As for 2015, whites are 80% of normal and reds 50% of normal — very serious in any scenario except when you compare to the surrounding vintages. 

As I mentioned in my overall review of the vintage, Frédéric’s father Michel has compared 2015 to 1929 — a very celebrated vintage that he grew up drinking on many occasions (Michel was born in 1928). 

The Volnays were harvested between 5 and 10 September. For the reds, the malolactic fermentations finished in January and February.

As always, the Lafarge reds start at a very high level with the lower appellations and those looking for value and/or wines that come around sooner should consider the Bourgogne and the two village Volnays. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Comte SENARD (Aloxe-Corton) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 13 August 2018.)

This domaine slides a bit under the radar, but the experiences I’ve had with the wines have always been very good, and 2015 is no exception. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 14 August 2018.)

My notes on the vintage at Méo-Camuzet and on tasting these and other 2015s from barrel and tank at the estate are here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET/MÉO-CAMUZET Frère & Soeurs (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2015 Tasted from Cask Samples

(Originally published 9 January 2017.)

Jean-Nicolas Méo said his yields were fairly small in 2015. For the most part, malolactic fermentations were normal, finishing in April through August, although a few were quite late and even still ongoing when I visited at the end of October 2016. He said the wines had low pHs, but also low total acidities.

Harvesting began on 5 September with a two-day halt in the middle to allow for the return of good weather. He took the risk that the grapes would get too ripe, but in fact that did not occur, although he said that in one or two wines the grapes were riper than he would have considered ideal. Importantly, the grapes did not lose acidity as they continued to sit on the vines.

Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are négociant wines sold under the Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs label. These are not to be scorned — look at the scores and descriptions. The sources have been consistent, as far as I know, and for the Chambolle and Nuits négociant wines, they are effectively farmed by Méo-Camuzet and but for some very technical reasons, would be included as estate wines. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine François RAVENEAU (Chalblis) -- 2015 from Bottle

(Originally published 13 August 2018.)

Impeccable wines, as always. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 13 August 2018.)

My notes on vintage conditions and these and other 2015s tasted from barrel (and the white Nuits-Perrière from bottle) at the estate are here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2015 Reds Tasted from Barrel, a 2015 White Tasted from Bottle, and a 2014 Red Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 14 March 2017.)

Gregory Gouges said that with the dry summer, the grass in the vineyards took water from the vines in 2015. As a result, he removed a number of grape bunches over the summer. Harvesting began on 1 September and lasted 4-1/2 days. Importantly, he was able to keep the acidity. Overall, yield was just 24 hl/ha., ranging from 18 hl/ha for the Vaucrains (the lowest) to 33 hl/ha for the Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges (the highest). (The estate was hit hard by the freeze in 2016, and overall yield is only 16 hl/ha for the estate in 2016, although Gregory says that the quality is very good; some wines, such as the Chènes Carteaux, will not be produced in 2016 because the quantities were so small.)

The grapes here were entirely destemmed, as is customary. Malolactic fermentations were early because of the warm winter, and all were finished by mid-January. Gregory expected an early bottling, beginning in December 2016. Alcohols range from 12.7º to 13.3º. 

These are very good wines, but as is the case with so many estates, don’t loose sight of the outstanding 2014s. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Éric de SUREMAIN/Château de MONTHÉLIE (Monthélie) -- 2015s Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 14 August 2018.)

Monthélie, just around the corner from Volnay, is a colder climate, and so it does well in warm years such as 2015, offering competition with the wines of its better-known neighbor. De Suremain is a top source for Monthélie, and there are also very good wines from Rully to be had here. 

The two Monthélie wines bear the designation Château de Monthélie. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) and CHÂTEAU DE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Puligny-Montrachet) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 14 August 2018.)

My reports on the vintage at de Montille and my notes on tasting the wines from barrel samples are here and here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2015 Part II: Reds Tasted from Tank and Cask Sample

(Originally published 14 January 2017.)

Malolactic fermentations were very late for the 2015s at de Montille. Quality here is outstanding across the board. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2015 Part I: Whites from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Originally published 13 January 2017.)

In whites, there’s a little bit of everything here. Brian Sieve, chef de cave, made a comparison to 2012, but with less botrytis. From not bad but not exceptional and perhaps comparable to 2012, there’s the Beaune and the Meursault, then a good Perrières. But rising above 2012 are an extremely good Corton-Charlemagne and a stunning Puligny-Cailleret. (Continue reading here.)

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS (Beaune) -- 2017 Part III: White Wines from Tank and Barrel Samples

Unsurprisingly, the high quality of the 2017 white vintage is readily perceptible here. Harvesting began on 7 September (three days later than for the reds). 

The grapes were healthy, but due to the thick skins, they were crushed prior to being pressed. Natural alcohols ranged from 12.5 to 14º, and there were good levels of both tartaric and malic acidities. 

To preserve freshness through control of temperature, alcoholic fermentations took place in stainless steel. The wines were then transferred to barrels where the malo-lactic fermentations took place. The malos finished in early April. (Continue reading here.)

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS (Beaune) -- 2017 Part II: Côte de Nuits Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

As I mentioned in the previous post, harvesting on the Côte de Nuits began on 11 September and continued through the 20th. 25-40% of the stems were retained to provide some aromatic freshness to offset the high maturity of the vintage. Alcohol levels were 13 to 14%. (Continue reading here.)

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS (Beaune) -- 2017 Part I: Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Bottle and Tank/Barrel Samples

Frédéric Weber said that what was most difficult in 2017 was to choose the dates to harvest — some vineyards had hydric stress, others, not. But rain in early September unblocked vines and brought back the acidity. Harvesting began 4 September with Côte de Beaune; it began on the Côte de Nuits on 11 September and it finished there on 20 September.  The grapes were in excellent health, so there was very little triage, only a little for grapes affected by the summer heat. Use of stems was a bit higher than usual: 15-20% on the Côte de Beaune and 25 to 40% on the Côte de Nuits. There was a cold maceration of 5-6 days for the wines.

Malo-lactic fermentations were relatively quick and all had finished by March.

For Monthélie and Volnay, the yields were limited by drought, but on the whole, this was the first vintage since 2011 that was near a normal yield.

I was bothered by some caramel taste in some of the wines, as noted below; if that goes away, I would score them higher. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine François LAMARCHE (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples

Harvesting began on 7 September. Malo-lactic fermentations began in January, which was late, but then they were classic. Alcohols are a maximum of 13.5%, which is for grands crus. There was very little chaptalization.  (Continue reading here.)

Domaine des Comtes LAFON (Meursault) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle

My notes on these and other 2016s from Lafon tasted in autumn 2017 are here.

Domaine des Comtes LAFON (Meursault) -- 2016 Tasted from Tank and Cask

(Originally published 27 November 2017.)

Harvesting began with the whites on 16 September (Meursault, Clos de la Baronne young vines and Meursault-Bouchères) and finished on 27 September with the red Monthélie-Duresses.

In 2016, all red wines were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were rather early for Lafon, finishing in January and February. The Monthélie and many of the whites were already in tank when I tasted, and by December, all the wines will be in tank. For the reds, at least, there was almost no new oak, but more recent barrels than usual.

Acidities are a little less than in 2015 and in the range of normal.

The quality is certainly here in 2016, but as for the quantity . . . . 

(Continue reading here.)

Domaine des Comtes LAFON (Meursault) -- 2017 Tasted from Tank and Barrel

Except for the Clos des Chênes, yields for the reds here were very high — 50 hl which is the highest the estate has ever made under Dominique Lafon. In whites, the Genevrières, Charmes, and Perrières were short crops in 2017 because they had produced well in 2016 (in contrast, those vineyards affected by frost generally produce higher crops in the succeeding year), but the other vineyards were generous.

Almost all the reds were destemmed, although there is a small amount of whole clusters in the Monthélie. 

Malolactic fermentations were very early. 

We start, as always, with the reds: (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Pierre LABET and Domaine du CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR (Vougeot) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 14 August 2018.)

These twin domaines are under the under the direction of François Labet and operated biodynamically. The domaines are a little under-the-radar, as quality is high. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 17 August 2018.)

My report on the vintage at Joseph Drouhin and notes on tasting wines there from cask and tank samples and from bottle in November 2016 are here, here, here, and here. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2015 Part I: Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Bottle and Cask Samples

(Originally published 16 March 2017.)

The story of the vintage here is similar to elsewhere: early and rapid flowering, some fungal diseases that were, however, successfully treated, dry July that retarded veraison (turning of color of the grapes) a little, rain in August that provided freshness and ripening for the grapes. The heat over the summer provided for ripe grapes and tannins and thickened the grape skins. 

Harvesting began on 2 September. The health of the grapes and uniform ripening due to the rapid flowering meant that there was very little sorting of the grapes required. Yields for the Côte d’Or reds were low to very low. Generally vinifications lasted two to three weeks and were adapted to the conditions of the vintage in order to preserve freshness and elegance. In particular, there was no bâtonnage (stirring of the lees), but the wines were kept on the lees in order to preserve freshness. 

Drouhin’s estate vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since at least 1996. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2015 Part II: Côte de Nuits Village and Premier Cru Wines Tasted from Cask Samples

(Originally published 17 March 2017.)

The description of the 2015 vintage at Drouhin is located here. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2015 Part III: Côte de Nuits Grand Cru Wines Tasted from Cask Samples

(Originally published 17 March 2017.)

The description of the 2015 vintage at Drouhin is located here. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2015 Part IV: Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise Whites Tasted from Bottle and Cask Samples

(Originally published on 22 March 2017.)

These Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise whites from Drouhin are on the whole representative of the vintage in whites — some good beyond expectations for the vintage, others not bad but lacking some inspiration.

Interestingly, some very late harvesting of the whites, along with some early harvesting. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine LEFLAIVE (Puligny-Montrachet) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 15 August 2018.)

This vintage was made by Éric Rémy. Beginning with the 2017 vintage, Pierre Vincent moved from Domaine de la Vougeraie to take charge of making the wines here. (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) 2017 Part II -- Whites from Bottle and Barrel/Tank Samples

The Marchand-Tawse negociant whites: (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) Part II -- Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

These are the Domaine Tawse whites for 2017: (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) 2017 Part I -- Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

This is the negociant operation associated with Domaine Tawse.

As in the past few vintages, the style is now considerably more elegant and pure than it previously had been. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Geogres) 2017 Part I -- Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

Harvesting in Gevrey-Chambertin began on 11 September and finished on the following day, except for the Mazy-Chambertin, which was picked on the 15th. The Côte de Beaune had been begun before the Côte de Nuits. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were mostly quick here in 2017 — most were done by end of 2017. There was no acidification and not much chaptalization. These are successful wines that show the widespread quality of the vintage.

We start with the former Domaine Maume wines: (Continue reading here.)

FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

My review of the 2015 vintage conditions and notes on tasting 2015s from cask at Faiveley are here, here, and here. (Continue reading here.)

FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges 2015 Part I -- Red Premiers Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 3 March 2017.)

Erwan Faiveley said that the changes to more elegant wines when he took over and brought in Bernard Hervet had maybe gone too far, and the 2015s represented an adjustment back, reaching a happy medium. I agree wholeheartedly, with the 2015s arguably being the most memorable of my more than twenty years of annual visits to Faiveley. The one unfortunate drawback was that the wines from Chambolle-Musigny were all completely reduced, and so not in condition to permit tasting them when I visited.

Harvesting on the Côte d’Or and the Côte Chalonnaise took place between 2 and 11 September. For the reds, production is about 15% below a normal harvest. For reds, the premiers and grands crus were made with about 25% whole clusters. In the recent past, new oak has been about 2/3 for the grands crus and 1/3 to 2/3 for the premiers crus; for 2015, those numbers are about 50-65% for the grands crus and 35-50% for the premiers crus. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) 2015 Part II -- Red Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 3 March 2017.)

As I reported in the previous post, Faiveley’s harvest on the Côte d’Or took place between 2 and 11 September. For the reds, production is about 15% below a normal harvest. The grand cru reds were made with about 25% whole clusters. In the recent past, new oak has been about 2/3 for the grands crus but in 2015, that figure is 50-65%.

Comparing these wines to the premiers crus, one sees that there generally were upper limits to quality for grands crus, so that many of the premiers crus showed equally well — until one gets to the two great Chambertin-Clos de Bèzes and the Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley, all three of which are in the very select group of top wines of the vintage. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) Part III -- 2015 White Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 5 March 2017.)

In this abbreviated view of Faiveley’s 2015 whites, they provide a good overview of the vintage: ripe and for the most part enjoyable, but lacking the structure and acidity of the best vintages. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine A. & P. de VILLAINE (Bouzeron) -- 2015 and 2016 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 16 August 2018.)

This estate, often cited as the finest on the Côte Chalonnaise, has been expanding in recent years. It now owns 36 ha, of which 30 are producing wine for the estate and 6 are rented out. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine d'EUGÉNIE (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally posted 20 August 2018.)

The last three wines here are from the old René Engel estate. 2006 was the first year under the new regime, directed by Frédéric Engerer of Pauillac’s Château Latour. 

In the past, I’ve not been enthusiastic about the wines under the new regime, finding them to be more like Pauillac than expressions of their respective Burgundy terroirs. Something may be beginning to change; I did find these wines are moving in the direction of terroir expression, although there is still a ways to go. But they are enjoyable to drink. (Continue reading here.)

Philippe LIVERA/Domaine des TILLEULS (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2015 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 19 August 2018.)

These wines are attractive for drinking, but present a conundrum for the Burgundy-lover because there is not much differentiation from one wine to the next; that is, they do not express individual terroirs. (Continue reading here.)

Background on 2017 German Harvest

Background on the 2017 German harvest is that it is an early vintage with low quantities, largely due to frosts in April, but in some regions also due to hail later on. Preliminary figures show quantities down 18% from 2016 and from the 10-year average. In the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, it was more serious, down 15% from the already short 2016 harvest and down 25% from the 10-year average. In contrast, Franken is an exception, with 4% more than in 2016 and 10% more than the 10-year average.

Recently Tasted Bandol Winess: Bastide Blanche/Bronzo, Tempier/Peyraud, Tour du Bon, Terrebrune/Delille

(Originally published 27 August 2018.)

Before moving on to German wines, I should clear out some of my tasting notes on wines of Bandol, one of my favorite appellations. All wines below are red, except those identified as rosé. (Continue reading here.)

Franken Silvaner Grosses Gewächs -- 2016 and 2017: Part I: Bickel-Stumpf, Bürgerspital, Juliusspital, Am Stein/Knoll, May, Schwab

(Originally published 13 September 2018.)

It’s still early, but many of these wines were showing quite well, already. (Continue reading here.)

Franken Silvaner Grosses Gewächs -- 2016 and 2017: Part II: Fröhlich, Horst Sauer, Rainer Sauer, Zur Schwane

(Originally published 13 September 2018.)

More outstanding Silvaner here. (Continue reading here.)

Franken Silvaner Grosses Gewächs -- 2016 and 2017: Part III: Bickel-Stumpf, Castell, Juliusspital, Luckert, Ruck, Weltner, Wirsching

(Originally published 13 September 2018.)

Outstanding wines from both vintages. (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Grosses Gewächs Riesling: 2017 Part I: Heymann-Löwenstein and Knebel

(Originally published 13 September 2018.)

One of my favorite producers, Clemens Busch, did not show any wines at the GG preview this year. I’m guessing that he, like many other producers, is holding his wines back a year and will show the 2017s next year. (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2017 (and a 2014) Part II: Lieser, Loosen, S.A. Prüm, Wegeler

(Originally published 14 September 2018.)

One can wonder if dry wines are the best use of these magnificent vineyards, but one can’t argue with the quality shown by these wines. (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2017 (and a 2016) -- Part III: Fritz Haag, Lieser, Loosen, S. A. Prüm, Wegeler

(Originally published 15 September 2018.)

This excellent group of wines includes a fascinating duel between the Haag brothers at Fritz Haag and Schloss Lieser. (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2017 -- Part IV: Grans-Fassian, Haart, Lieser, Weis - St. Urbanshof

(Originally published 15 September 2018.)

The riches continue as one moves upstream on the Mosel. (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling -- Part V: Karthäuserhof and Maximin Grünhaus

(Originally published 15 September 2018.)

Only three wines from the Ruwer Valley. (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling -- Part VI -- von Othegraven and van Volxem

(Originally published 15 September 2018.)

Who doesn’t like great Saar wines? (Continue reading here.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling -- Part VII: Fischer, Geltz-Zilliken, Lauer, von Othegraven, Weiss/St. Urbanshof

(Originally published 15 September 2018.)

Finishing up the outstanding wines of the Saar in particular, and the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer overall. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET/MÉO-CAMUZET Frère & Soeurs (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

Jean-Nicolas Méo said that harvesting took place from 6 to 9 September. Malo-lactic fermentations were rapid, and the wines took some time to recover from them, he said. He said that malic acidities were high; most other estates I visited said malic acidities were normal or low.

The estate will be switching to DIAM corks of top quality for its top cuvées, thereby joining other prestigious estates, such as Lafon, Domaine Leflaive, de Montille (in part), and Bouchard Père & Fils, that have made the switch.

Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs, made from purchased fruit (including, in some cases, vineyards that Méo-Camuzet essentially farms); those without the asterisk are Domaine Méo-Camuzet wines. (Continue reading here.)

Nahe 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part I: Diel, Dönnhoff, Kruger-Rumpf, Salm, Schäfer

(Originally published 16 September 2018.)

Yet again, the Nahe shows outstanding across-the-board quality for its Rieslings. (Continue reading here.)

Nahe 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part II: Crusius, Dönnhoff, Hermannsberg

(Originally published 16 September 2018.)

Karsten Peter is coming into his own and putting Gut Hermannsberg (a successor to the old Staatsdomäne) back onto the map as one of the elite Nahe estates. (Continue reading here.)

Nahe 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part III: Crusius, Dönnhoff, Hermannsberg, Schäfer-Fröhlich

(Originally published 17 September 2018.)

Amazingly, all these wines, tasted one against the other, seemed just about equal in overall quality (the slightest of nods to Dönnhoff). It will be interesting with time to go back and see how they show. (Continue reading here.)

Nahe 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part IV: Emrich-Schönleber and Schäfer-Fröhlich

(Originally published 18 September 2018.)

One has to wonder, is it just the excellence of these two great producers or was the western part of the Nahe the most successful subregion of the Nahe in 2017? Either way, all great wines. (Continue reading here.)

Rheingau Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2017 Part I: Flick, Künstler, Werner

(Originally published 24 September 2018.)

This set of wines, kicking off the Rheingau presentation, demonstrates the excellent quality of the Rheingau vintage. (Continue reading here.)

Rheingau Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2017 Part II (Martinsthal, Kiedrich, Erbach): Diefenhardt, Jung, Kloster Eberbach, von Oettinger, Weil

(Originally published 24 September 2018.)

Generally very good wines here, with a few touches of irregularity. (Continue reading here.)

Rheingau Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2017 and 2016 Part III (Hattenheim and Hallgarten): Barth, Eser, Kühn, Müller, Prinz, Ress, Spreitzer

(Originally published 28 September 2018.)

Plenty of outstanding wine here. Kühn, Prinz, and Spreitzer are consistent stars of the Rheingau, but the others are also producing outstanding wines, too. (Continue reading here.)

Rheingau Grosses Gewächs Riesling 2017 and 2016 Part IV (Oestrich, Mittelheim, Winkel, Schloss Vollrads): Allendorf, Eser, Hessen, Kühn, Schönleber, Spreitzer, Vollrads, Wegeler

(Originally published 30 September 2018.)

Continued quality in this part of the Rheingau. (Continue reading here.)

Rheingau Riesling GG 2017 Part V (Johannisberg, Rüdesheim, Lorchhausen): Allendorf, Eberbach, Fendel, Hessen, Johannisberg, Johannishof, Kessler, Künstler, Ress, Wegeler

(Originally published on 30 September 2018.)

I found a bit more irregularity here than in the other sectors of the Rheingau, although the producers I consider best made the best wines. (Continue reading here.)

Mittelrhein 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling -- Jost, Lanius-Knab, Ratzenberger

(Originally published 30 September 2018.)

Mittelrhein wines are not often seen, but they can provide surprisingly good drinking experiences. (Continue reading here.)

Rheinhessen 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part I: Kruger-Rumpf, Salm, Wagner-Stempel

(Originally posted 1 October 2018.)

Although these technically are Rheinhessen wines, the Bingen vineyards border on the Nahe appellation and the Siefersheim vineyards are not far away. As a result, these wines can be viewed as from an extension of the northeast segment of the Nahe appellation. (Continue reading here.)

Rheinhessen 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling, Part II: Becker, Gunderloch, Keller, Kühling-Gillot, St. Antony, Schätzel

(Originally published 2 October 2018.)

There’s somewhat more variability here than for other areas already reviewed, but the best came up with outstanding wines. (Continue reading here.)

Rheinhessen 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part III: Battenfeld-Spanier, Groebe, Gutzler, Keller, Winter, Wittmann

(Originally published 3 October 2018.)

This set of wines was surprisingly mixed in quality, with some producers performing as expected, but others falling short. (Continue reading here,)

Pfalz 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part I (Northern Sector): Fitz-Ritter, Knipser, Kuhn, Pfeffingen, Rings, Schaefer

(Originally published 4 October 2018.)

The Pfalz probably was the most successful region overall in 2017 for Riesling GG. There were essentially no wines that performed below expectations (not that there were many in other regions) and the two top Rieslings I tasted were from the Pfalz. (Continue reading here.)

Pfalz 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part II (Forst): Acham-Magin, Bassermann-Jordan, Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, Mosbacher, Siben

(Originally published 5 October 2018)

Forst is the Vosne-Romanée of the Pfalz (a region that has more than passing resemblance to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or). Both are the location of the region’s greatest vineyard and other vineyards of nearly equal quality, and both have high concentrations of high quality estates working biodynamically for their magnificent holdings. This selection of wines was a pure joy to taste.

Von Buhl and Bürklin-Wolf recently have been holding back wines one vintage, so this year they showed 2016 and next year they will show 2017. The non-appearance of von Winning at this tasting suggests that estate, too, will not release its 2017 GGs until next year. (Continue reading here.)

Pfalz 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling (Deidesheim to Haardt): Bassermann-Jordan, Bergdolt-St Lamprecht, Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, Christmann, Mosbacher, Müller-Catoir

(Originally published 6 October 2016.)

The parade of great wines from great producers continues. (Continue reading here.)

Pfalz 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling Part IV: Meßmer, Minges, Münzberg, Kranz, Rebholz, Siegrist, Wehrheim

(Originally published 7 October 2018)

This is the least well-known sector of the Pfalz, but not to be overlooked, nonetheless. (Continue reading here.)