Harvesting in Gevrey-Chambertin began on 11 September and finished on the following day, except for the Mazy-Chambertin, which was picked on the 15th. The Côte de Beaune had been begun before the Côte de Nuits.
Malo-lactic fermentations were mostly quick here in 2017 — most were done by end of 2017. There was no acidification and not much chaptalization. These are successful wines that show the widespread quality of the vintage.
We start with the former Domaine Maume wines:
2017 Bourgogne Vigne Blanche
Good purity to red fruits, nice acidity, freshness, medium-weight. (88-90)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin
Wild red and dark Gevrey fruit, pure, smooth, fresh, long. (90-92)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Etelois
Intense, dark, concentrated, fresh. 26% whole cluster (because of very small grapes that were difficult to destem). Some tannin showing. (90-92)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
Good structure, dark fresh fruit, smooth, medium-bodied. As here, this wine in many vintages shows more like a premier cru than a village wine. (91-94)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux
(Only Gevrey vineyard that didn’t have frost in 2016). 20% whole cluster. Round, concentrated, very dark fruit, slight earthiness, some power here. (91-93)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques
Dark fruit, energetic, concentrated but lighter in mouth than the Champeaux. Good length in mouth and a fair amount of power. Some tannin on finish. (91-94)
2017 Mazoyères-Chambertin
Destemmed entirely. 50% new wood. Dark cherry, dense, good purity. Not especially long. (91-94)
2017 Mazy-Chambertin
Dark fruits, medium-full, powerful, outstanding potential, but not showing much differentiation yet. (92-95)
Turning to the other estate wines:
2017 Musigny
Light on palate, red fruits, some spice, smooth, good depth. Took off the individual berries by hand. Considering that this is not the best portion of Musigny (formerly it had been a parking lot), this is a very good effort. (93-95)
2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roy
50% whole bunch. Dark fruit, round, medium-light, smooth. Always first to be picked here. Good length. Good charm. (89-91)
2017 Beaune 1er Cru Theurons
Clear (as in gels) dark fruits with some red in it. 20% whole clusters. Some tannin on finish. (89-92)
2017 Beaune 1er Cru Thuivilans
Round with dark fruit, some power here, good depth. 30-40 year-old vines. (90-92)
2017 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières
Bought in 2014. Round, smooth, red fruits. Some tannin on finish. (89-92)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru Frémiets
Bought in 2014. Frémiets lightness and firmness, red cherry and red currant fruit. 50% whole clusters (2015 had more, amounts are now coming down). From top part of Frémiets. (91-94)