Maximin Grünhaus/von Schubert (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) -- 2018 and a 2016 Sekt

Despite challenging conditions of 2018, von Schubert has come through again with an excellent vintage. Not as classic as 2017, but still plenty to offer here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle and a 2017 Tasted from Bottle

(Please see my overview of the vintage here.)

Gregory Gouges said that the 25 July hail caused losses in Les Saint-Georges, Vaucrains, and Chênes Carteaux, all south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Overall, the estate made 20hl/ha, with 50% losses where there was hail. 

Harvesting began on 8 September. Vinification was classic for the estate — all grapes destemmed, 20% new wood. 

Malo-lactic fermentations were early for the estate, finishing by the middle of December, and so bottling is early, with several of the wines already being in bottle when I visited in late October 2019.

Alcohols range from 13.5% to 14.5%. Although I generally disfavor Burgundy at 14% alcohol, much less 14.5%, I found the wines here open and expressive, and they were able to handle the higher alcohols, being successful across the board. (Continue reading here.)

Fritz HAAG (Mosel) -- 2018 Tasted from Bottle

Other than the Riesling trocken below, the rest of the wines here are outstanding in this challenging vintage, just as one would expect from this great and consistent estate. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overall vintage review here.)

An outstanding set of wines here, notwithstanding the challenging conditions of the vintage.

Jean-Nicolas Méo said that harvesting began on 29 August at Corton and then continued on 1 September for the Clos-de-Vougeot. Yields were generous, some vineyards set records. There was some green harvesting over the summer, too. The wines are between 12.9% and 14% alcohol. Malic acidities were low, and the malo-lactic fermentations accordingly were quick. Almost all wines were from entirely destemmed grapes. 

In spring and early summer, Vosne-Romanée suffered quite a bit of mildew and some oïdium after that. As a result, although the estate has long followed organic practices, in 2018 it was necessary to use some chemical treatments. From 15 July on, there were no more problems in the vineyards.

Jean-Nicolas compares the vintage to 1989 and 1985, two ripe vintages that have lasted well. 

These wines were served from samples that had been bottled and then a Coravin was used for serving, a practice that makes wines more difficult for me to judge. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine CHANDON-DE-BRIAILLES (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Please read my vintage overview here.)

Claude de Nicolaÿ-Drouhin said that 2019 was the first year that all the estate’s vineyards were worked by horse. Tractors were used only for sprays; speaking of which, for some years, the estate has been spraying with milk and minimal copper, and it is experimenting with copper substitutes. The estate has long been organic and biodynamic.

You can see the harvest dates below for each wine. The harvesting began very early and lasted about three weeks. Picking took place only in the mornings, so it was not necessary to chill the grapes prior to the pre-fermentation macerations. For the reds, malo-lactic fermentations were very quick.

The grands crus are raised in 20% new oak, the premiers crus in 15% new oak, except for the Savigny-Fourneaux, which sees no new oak.

As at several other producers I visited, Claude said she thought the mid-slope vineyards did best. (Continue reading here.)