Pfalz 2017 and 2016 Grosses Gewächs Riesling (Deidesheim to Haardt): Bassermann-Jordan, Bergdolt-St Lamprecht, Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, Christmann, Mosbacher, Müller-Catoir

(Originally published 6 October 2018.)

The parade of great wines from great producers continues.




Geheimer Rat Dr. von BASSERMANN-JORDAN

2017 (Deidesheim) Hohenmorgen Riesling GG
Mineral nose. Racy, energetic, penetrating, peach flesh in the mouth. 93+/A




BERGDOLT - ST. LAMPRECHT

2017 (Ruppertsberg) Reiterpfad-Achtmorgen Riesling GG
Peach skin nose. Intense, quite dry on entry, peach skin fruit, long. Needs time — still disjointed. 92+/A




Reichsrat von BUHL


2016 (Ruppertsberg) Reiterpfad-Hofstück Riesling GG
Light, white peach nose. Intense, sinewy, nervy, incisive white peach skin. Very different style from Bürklin-Wolf’s Reiterpfad below. 92+/A

2017 (Deidesheim) Kalkofen Riesling GG
Floral, perfumed nose. Energetic, nervy, intense, deep, apricot. 93/A




Dr. BÜRKLIN-WOLF

2016 (Ruppertsberg) Reiterpfad-In der Hohl Riesling GG
Incipient peach, floral. Powerful, deep, round, yellow peach. Muscular, almost a brute. 92+/A




A. CHRISTMANN

2017 (Königsbach) Idig Riesling GG
Floral nectarine. Dense, chewy, nectarine. A touch rustic at this time. 92(+)/A

2017 (Deidesheim) Langenmorgen Riesling GG
Melon, peach blossom nose. Round, peach, almost peach jam (but not jammy), light on palate but intense, concentrated, with power. 92+/A

2017 (Gimmeldingen) Mandelgarten-Meerspinne Riesling GG
Incipient peach nose. Round, medium-full, apricot and peach, some power. 93/A

2017 (Ruppertsberg) Reiterpfad-Hofstück Riesling GG
Floral. Round, sensual, apricot; light on palate. 92+/A





Georg MOSBACHER

2017 (Deidesheim) Kalkofen Riesling GG
Complex, subtle nose with floral fruit. Intense, pure, deep, complex, long, texture just short of sappy with white nectarine and other fruits. 94/A




MÜLLER-CATOIR

2017 (Haardt) Bürgergarten “Im Breumel” Riesling GG
Lime blossom nose. Medium-weight, sculpted, powerful, apricot. Good length. 93/A