Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2017 Grosses Gewächs Riesling -- Part VII: Fischer, Geltz-Zilliken, Lauer, von Othegraven, Weiss/St. Urbanshof

(Originally published 15 September 2018.)

Finishing up the outstanding wines of the Saar in particular, and the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer overall.





Dr. FISCHER

There’s some new investment here, part by Nik Weiss, so this may be an estate to watch.

2017 (Saarburg) Kupp Riesling GG
Stony but also with some fruitiness. Nice depth, good intensity. 93/A




Forstmeister GELTZ — ZILLIKEN

2017 (Saarburg) Rausch Riesling GG
Stony but also some fruitiness in the nose. Good depth and firmness in the mouth, medium weight, elegant, stony, pure, long, mineral, citric — grapefruit, lemon, also some herbs. Excellent energy along with calm. 93(+)/A




Peter LAUER

Florian Lauer makes classic Saars that for many can be difficult to approach in their youth, but the quality is definitely there.

2017 (Biebelhausen) Fels Riesling GG
Floral, stony nose that jumps out of the glass. Stony, pure, some richness to the palate, Stony flavors. 93(+)/A

2017 (Ayl) Kupp Riesling GG
Pure, stony, strict, but with depth and power. Promising even if difficult today. 93/A

2017 (Ayl) Schonfels Riesling GG
Lovely pure, strict, stony, austere Saar. Long, focused. 93+/A




von OTHEGRAVEN

2017 (Ockfen) Bockstein Riesling GG
Very stony, very penetrating nose and mouth with fruit underneath. Plenty of fruit, but completely dry. Good length. 93+/A




Nik WEISS — ST. URBANSHOF

2017 (Ockfen) Bockstein Riesling GG
Lemony in nose and mouth, enough sugar to prevent this from being completely strict. Just not the intensity, tension, depth that I had hoped for. 90/B+

2017 (Schoden) Saarfeilser Marienberg Riesling GG
Floral and stony with fruit, excellent depth, steeliness. 93/A