Domaine G./Christophe* ROUMIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2015 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 17 January 2017.)

Christophe Roumier said that overall yield in 2015 was just below average (whereas 2016 is the smallest since 1971). There is “a little” whole cluster fruit in these wines. Malolactic fermentations finished in June and July and the wines were racked in the beginning of September. He likens the vintage to 2005 but with more roundness, and at least for his wines, I agree with the comparison.

Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are sold under Christophe’s name.

2015 Chambolle-Musigny
Roumier’s Chambolle is fresh, pure, and smooth with red fruit and a touch of licorice. Nice roundness here. (90-93)

2015 Morey-Saint-Denis    1er Cru    Clos de la Bussière
The Morey shows red cherry fruit and is round with lots of charm and lightness on the palate. This is very different from the wine as it was made until 2002 when Christophe made significant changes. (91-94)

2015 Chambolle-Musigny     1er Cru    Les Combottes
This is outstanding Combottes with bright red cherry fruit and maybe a bit more structure than usual, but still good finesse. (92-95)

2015 Chambolle-Musigny    1er Cru    Les Cras
The Cras shows darker fruit and more substance with some structure, but it is still quite primary at the time of tasting. (92-96)

2015 Charmes-Chambertin    Aux Mazoyères*
The Charmes-Chambertin is fresh, dark, round, and long and shows less rusticity than usual — a reflection of the vintage, no doubt.  (92-95)

2015 Ruchottes-Chambertin*
The Ruchottes-Chambertin has dark fruit and is mineral and nervy with good depth and the richness of the vintage. (92-96)

2015 Bonnes-Mares
Here we have a dense and powerful wine that is long and typical of young Bonnes-Mares. Only with a producer as great as Roumier can I say that for a wine this magnificent, there is nevertheless a slight disappointment when one sees what was done with the Musigny. The Bonnes-Mares is typical of the majority of great terroirs of the vintage that seem to hit a limit on just how great they can be. (94-97)

2015 Chambolle-Musigny     1er Cru    Les Amoureuses
The Amoureuses shows the dark fruit that is typical of Roumier’s Amourueses (but not others from the vineyard) with superb finesse and great depth. It is magnificent. (95-99)

2015 Musigny
As fabulous as the Amoureuses is, it is the Musigny that steals the show. It is one of the handful of greatest wines of the vintage, and indeed a serious challenger for greatest of the vintage. Tasting it burns an unforgettable memory in the brain. The wine is dense, pure, mineral, and harmonious. It is as classic Musigny as Musigny can get. Christophe says that the wine is not particularly high in alcohol (although I did not record a figure). 1-1/4 barrels of this, or roughly 375 bottles. But that’s a lot compared to 2016, where there is 140 liters or about half that amount. (97-99)

2015 Corton-Charlemagne*
Roumier’s Corton-Charlemagne is on the Pernand (west-facing) side of the hill and so it tends to do best in warm vintages. The wine shows good acidity with apply, penetrating fruit, roundness, and good structure. Classic CC. There will be none in 2016. (93-96)