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2021 was a disastrously small vintage for white wines in the Côte d’Or, and Domaine de l’Arlot was no exception. Overall volume was down 65% from a full year. As a result, only two white wines were produced.
All wines below, including the reds, excepting the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits which is bottled with DIAM, are bottled with cork. Alcohols are in the 13 to 13.5% range. (Continue reading here.)
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The Beaune and the Savigny are Domaine Tawse wines, the Morgon, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, Côte de Nuits-Village, and Morey-Saint-Denis are Maison Marchand-Tawse wines. (Continue reading here.)
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As I stated in my previous post, this is a producer to consider if you don’t already know it — they provide quality wines, especially at the premier and grand cru level at a time when other sources are drying up in the market.
All wines below négociant wines vinified by Marchand-Tawse and will be sold under the Marchand-Tawse label. (Continue reading here.)
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This operation in the heart of Nuits-Saint-Georges, a partnership between (a) Pasacal Marchand, formerly of Domaine des Epeneaux/Comte Armand and Domaine de la Vougeraie, and (b) Morey Tawse continues to make attractive wines that are a little below the radar in today’s Burgundy. Notably, the style here is now less powerful and extracted than were the wines under Pascal’s tenure at both Epeneaux and Vougeraie. These wines certainly are worthy of exploration by Burgundy fans who have found that current conditions have cut them off from other producers they once were able to obtain.
As almost everywhere in the Côte d’Or, the malolactic fermentations were quick in 2022.
The wines below are estate wines except for the Bourgogne Côte d’Or. (Continue reading here.)
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As with the red wines here, the wines are in a ripe style. (Continue reading here.)
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This estate, formerly known under the name Domaine Réyanne et Pascal Bouley, is now firmly under the control of their son, Pierrick. He said that 2022 posed no problems for him. Yields were “normal to a bit over” normal: 25 hl/ha for the premiers crus, 45 hl/ha for the Aligoté, and 35 hl/ha for the estate overall. He began the harvest on 1 September.
The estate is now following organic farming and will be officially certified this year. As with many producers now in order to combat the heat, Pierrick is not cutting the tops of the vines, allowing them to provide more shade.
Because he doesn’t use sulfur, malolactic fermentations were rapid, with many finishing before the alcoholic fermentations. All fruit for the wines is destemmed. In general, about 30% new wood on the wines. In 2022, there were 2-3 pigeages (punch downs) per day at the maximum in order not to extract too much.
These are very good wines in a somewhat modern style. (Continue reading here.)
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In 1987, Michel Lafarge was one of the first vignerons I met on my initial trip to Burgundy for the purpose of writing about wine. I last saw him as I had every vintage since then, while visiting the estate in 2019, the year prior to his death at age 91. He is gone, but this remains one of the iconic estates of Burgundy.
Michel’s son Frédéric, who each year resembles is father more and more, greeted us, as he has for many years, and we tasted a handful of 2022s before moving on. I expect to return in the fall to taste through the whole line.
Malolactic fermentations for the whites had not finished when I tasted in early June, but for the reds, they finished in March. Yields were "normal." (Continue reading here.)
Jacques Bavard’s paternal grandfather was an owner of a significant estate in Puligny-Montrachet until the mid-1970s, including wines from Chevalier-Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet. But times were different then, and not everyone wanted to follow a career in wine. The generation of Jacques’ parents left and Jacques eventually found himself with a restaurant in Paris (that had a very good wine list). In 1995, he found himself in Burgundy tasting wine for his restaurant and was attracted back to the wine world. He eventually studied two years at the lycée viticole in Beaune and established a négociant operation based in Puligny.
The wines here are not from grand appellations and the wines are not going to make you forget the stars of the Côte de Beaune. But for relatively modest prices, they can scratch the Burgundy itch when needed, something that is very much needed in today’s overheated Burgundy market.
For white wines, Bavard uses both 350-liter and the standard 228-liter barrels. There has been an increase in new oak since 2017 for the whites because that use increases reduction, and since 2006, there has been no bâtonnage (stirring of the lies). The wines are made for drinking in the first ten years, with an emphasis on freshness; longer aging would require more use of sulfur, which Jacques is not willing to do. (Continue reading here.)
Brian Sieve, chef de cave at Domaine de Montille, said that 2018, 2020, and 2022 were the warmest vintages ever. Of the three, 2022 produced the most fruit. Alcohols are about 12.8º, with only two wines in the estate being above 13º. Harvesting in 2022 started about 24 August. Production levels were generous.
The estate began adopting organic practices in 1985, and by 1995 had totally abandoned synthetic fertilizers, fungicides, and insecticides. In the 2000s, the estate began to adopt biodynamic processes. (Continue reading here.)
I have been visiting this estate since the mid-1990s. The wines have always been of high quality (a 2001 Romanée-Saint-Vivant that I opened at the end of last year was all that one could have asked of that great vineyard), but there has been a welcome evolution over the years toward wines with less new oak and more elegance.
Alain and Sophie Meunier’s son Louis has now taken charge of the fermentations here and further added to the trend toward elegance and balance. Specifically, he has increased the period of cold maceration, does very little physical intervention, and uses much less SO2.
In short, this is an estate that has not received as much attention as it deserved in the past and that appears now to be poised to go to go to very top echelons of quality. Those lamenting the high prices of recent Burgundy vintages will find good values and quality wines at the lower levels. Those seeking top-of-the-heap Burgundy will focus on the top appellations.
Harvesting in 2022 began at the end of August. Overall yields were 39 hl/ha. Malolactic fermentations here were rapid, as was the case generally in 2022.
All wines below are red wines and were tasted from barrel. The estate has been organic since 1989, quite early for Burgundy. (Continue reading here.)
Some unevenness in this selection, but there is quality to be had for not all that much money compared to Côte d'Or wines. (Continue reading here.)
Interesting wines that can be found for not much money. My first experience with this producer.
Whites: (Continue reading here.)