(Originally published 2 October 2018.)
There’s somewhat more variability here than for other areas already reviewed, but the best came up with outstanding wines.
There’s somewhat more variability here than for other areas already reviewed, but the best came up with outstanding wines.
Brüder Dr. BECKER
2017 (Dienheim) Falkenberg Riesling GG
Some firmness but a little sweetness showing with quince, a touch of dustiness. 89+/B
GUNDERLOCH
Across the board, impressive wines from Gunderloch in this vintage.
2017 (Nierstein) Hipping Riesling GG
Pear nose. Medium-weight, mineral, powerful, still unformed. 92(+)/A
2017 (Nierstein) Pettenthal Riesling GG
Mineral nose. Mineral, medium-weight, good penetration, good energy. 92+/A
2017 (Nackenheim) Rothenberg Riesling GG
Salty, mineral, light, penetrating. 92/A
KELLER
2017 (Nierstein) Hipping Riesling GG
Salty nose. Salty, pure, clear, mineral, crisp. An excellent result from Klaus-Peter Keller’s fairly recent entry into the Roter Hang portion of the Rheinhessen. 93+/A
KÜHLING-GILLOT
2017 (Nierstein) Hipping Riesling GG
Salty, medium-light, good penetration. 92+/A
2017 (Nierstein) Ölberg Riesilng GG
Light, elegant, penetrating, good intensity, minerality, yellow fruits. 92/A
2017 (Nierstein) Pettenthal Riesling GG
Quince nose. Medium-light in mouth, quince, good intensity, length. 92/A
2017 (Nackenheim) Rothenberg “Wurzelecht" Riesling GG
Medium-light. Some minerality, some saltiness; could use a touch more acidity to bind it all together. This wine is from ungrafted (“Wurzelecht”) vines. 89(+)/B
ST. ANTONY
2017 (Nierstein) Hipping Riesling GG
Lacking a bit of structure — medium-weight, loose, peach fruit. 88/B
2017 (Nierstein) Orbel Riesling GG
Medium-light, a touch flabby, but minerality is attractive. 88/B
2017 (Nierstein) Pettenthal Riesling GG
Floral aromas. Medium-weight, salty, incipient apricot. 92(+)/A
SCHÄTZEL
2017 (Nierstein) Hipping Riesling GG
Very apply/pear in both nose and mouth. Medium weight, good structure, a touch of saltiness. 92/A
2017 (Nierstein) Ölberg Riesling GG
Peach skin nose. Medium-weight, intense, mineral, peach. 92/A
2016 (Nierstein) Pettenthal Riesling GG
Petrol nose with some apple jelly. Dry on palate, medium-light, some apple and peach. 90(+)/B+