CHÂTEAU D'ARLAY (Jura) -- Current release wines

This historic domaine is certified organic. It is a bit under-the-radar, but it is consistently a fine source for Jura wines. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Albert MOROT (Beaune) -- A Selection of 2020, 2019, and 2018 from Bottle

 This organic estate (certified since 2015) is known by Burgundy fans as a producer of quality wines at attractive prices. All wines below are red except for the Savigny-les-Beaune. (Continue reading here.)


Domaine BARRAUD (Vergisson) -- Wines Recently Tasted, Mostly from 2020

This excellent domaine has been working organically and biodynamically for 15 years, but has not made the effort to be so certified. (Continue reading here.)

 

Domaine JOLIET: Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière

A recent article by Eric Asimov in the New York Times profiles Fixin’s Clos de la Perrière and its current owner, Bégnine Joliet. For much of the 19th century, Clos de la Perrière was one of the most highly-regarded vineyards in the Côte d’Or. That reputation did not continue into the twentieth century, but now Bénigne Joliet is attempting to recuperate that reputation. As Asimov observes, the wines are not of the level that they apparently were two hundred years ago, but they are worthy of note.


The vineyard is organically farmed, but the wine is not so certified.  (Continue reading here.)

RIDGE VINEYARDS: Spring 2022 National Releases

 As I mentioned in my reviews of the Ridge Spring 2021 national releases, Ridge’s wines had in recent years been moving in the direction of more power and oak. But in March 2021, Ridge announced that Ed Baugher, Monte Bello Winemaker and COO, was leaving Ridge and that John Olney, longtime Winemaker and COO at the Lytton Springs Winery, was being promoted to Head Winemaker and COO of the whole Ridge operation. As such, the 2020 wines, at least those from the Monte Bello Winery, can be regarded as transitional, begun under Baugher, but finished under Olney.


In comparing these wines to the previous few vintages, I do overall find more finesse and better balance here than I had in recent vintages. But it will take a few more vintages to sort out what is due to vintage variation (remember, 2019 was a very challenging vintage) and what is due to a change in approach under Olney. That said, Olney’s background includes internships with Gérard Chave in the Rhône Valley, Lucien Peyraud at Domaine Tempier, and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, so one would not be surprised to see a shift in balance in the wines.


At any rate, this is a marvelous set of wines and I encourage you to seek them out. (Continue reading here.)