Domaine des Lambrays -- 2022 Tasted from Barrel

 

Since I last visited in 2019, a new cuverie has been installed, looking very much like that which Faiveley put in a few years before.

The 2022s were ready to pick as early as 25 August, explained Jacques Devauges, but he delayed until 1 September. He began then with the whites and the harvest was over on 8 September. Yields in 2021 were about half of normal; in 2022, they were normal plus some more. Malolactic fermentations finished before Christmas 2022, quite common in Burgundy, as there was very little malic acidity in the vintage. 

As the estate continues with organic and biodynamic practices under the excellent direction of Jacques Devauges, there is no question that quality continues to mount. (Continue reading here.)

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Domaine des LAMBRAYS (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle, Barrel, and Tank Sample

Technical Director Boris Champy said that he believes Lambrays is already one of the top fifteen domaines in Burgundy, and his goal is to make it one of the top three. It’s a daunting challenge; I think Domaine de la Romanée-Conti would make almost all lists of the top three from informed judges, but there would be quite a bit of diversity with respect to the remaining two. That makes it difficult when you aren’t even sure whom you are chasing.

Harvesting in 2017 took place on 31 August for the Puligny-Folatières, 2 September for the Puligny-Clos du Cailleret, and it began on 3 September for the Clos des Lambrays. The harvest finished on 12 September with the village Morey. At the village level, the yield was 29 hl/ha, for the Clos des Lambrays, it was 37 hl/ha. Malo-lactic fermentations were quick, finishing by 1 December.

We start this time with the whites. Boris said that his goal is zero rate of premature oxidation, and the estate is taking various measures to control the oxygen in order to achieve that goal. For one, there have been some barrel changes, and for another the necks of the bottles have been reduced to 17 mm in diameter (18.5 or 19 is standard), the same as it was 100 years ago. (Continue reading here.)