This estate, often cited as the finest on the Côte Chalonnaise, has been expanding in recent years. It now owns 36 ha, of which 30 are producing wine for the estate and 6 are rented out.
2015 Bouzeron
There’s no fat that one finds in many whites of the vintage. The wine is smooth with good length and minerality. 88/A-
2015 Bourgogne-Côte Chalonnaise Les Clou Aimé Chardonnay
The Bourgogne, Clou Aimé shows good structure with some breadth, a smooth texture, depth, length, and minerality. The wine for now has spiced apple fruit. No fat here. At the same time I tasted this wine, I also tasted the 1991 Bourgogne, Les Clou (from the same vineyard and another parcel that has since been replanted), and the quality was astonishing, even better than for this wine. You can spend a lot more money on Côte de Beaune whites, but unless you choose carefully, you won’t wind up with the quality produced here. 90/A
2015 Bourgogne-Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune Pinot Noir
This wine shows purity and minerality in its red berry fruits and there’s nice energy here. 90/A
2015 Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps
Santenay-Passetemps is a relatively recent addition to the estate. There is a special symbolic significance, too. Aubert de Villaine is co-owner of this domaine and a part owner and co-gérant of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. For forty years in the nineteenth century, the grapes of Romanée-Conti and other vines in Vosne-Romanée and Flagey-Echézeaux owned by Jules Duvault-Blochet were vinified and raised at the Château du Passetemps in Santenay. This wine shows red and dark fruits, sensuality, some minerality, and good energy. There’s good freshness here, too. 91/A-
From 2016:
2016 Bouzeron
In 2016, the estate lost about 40% of a normal crop due to the April freeze. Given the terroir of this vineyard and the older type of Aligoté that is used here, it’s not surprising that this wine is a creamier than most Aligoté-based wine. In addition to the creaminess, the wine is round and mineral. 88/A-
2016 Bourgogne-Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune Pinot Noir
This wine is fresh with density and purity to its dark fruits. As with other wines at this estate, you get more than you expect from the appellation. 30-40% whole clusters here and the vines are about 50 years-old. 89/A