(Originally published 5 October 2018.)
Forst is the Vosne-Romanée of the Pfalz (a region that has more than passing resemblance to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or). Both are the location of the region’s greatest vineyard and other vineyards of nearly equal quality, and both have high concentrations of high quality estates working biodynamically for their magnificent holdings. This selection of wines was a pure joy to taste.
Forst is the Vosne-Romanée of the Pfalz (a region that has more than passing resemblance to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or). Both are the location of the region’s greatest vineyard and other vineyards of nearly equal quality, and both have high concentrations of high quality estates working biodynamically for their magnificent holdings. This selection of wines was a pure joy to taste.
Von Buhl and Bürklin-Wolf recently have been holding back wines one vintage, so this year they showed 2016 and next year they will show 2017. The non-appearance of von Winning at this tasting suggests that estate, too, will not release its 2017 GGs until next year.
ACHAM-MAGIN
2017 (Forst) Jesuitengarten Riesling GG
White peach skin nose. Medium-weight, good intensity, not much complexity at this point compared to others, but it should come. 93/A
2017 (Forst) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
White peach skin nose. Medium-weight, clear, peach fruit. More straightforward than other two wines from Kirchenstück — very direct. 92(+)/A
2017 (Forst) Ungeheuer Riesling GG
Floral peach nose. Medium-weight, straight-ahead apricot, good length. 92/A
2017 (Forst) Pechstein Riesling GG
Floral yellow peach. Round, some minerality, but lacking a bit in tightness and expressiveness. 90(+?)/B+
Geheimer Rat Dr. von BASSERMANN-JORDAN
A great vintage at this biodynamic estate, including the two greatest wines for me at this year’s tasting.
2017 (Forst) Jesuitengarten Riesling GG
Peach blossom nose. Floral white peach fruit, clarity, intensity, harmony. 93(+)/A
2017 (Forst) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
Mouth-filling but elegant, complex, filigreed, almost kaleidoscopic, combinations of peach and apricot fruit. 95/A+
2017 (Forst) Pechstein Riesling GG
Floral yellow peach blossom nose. Smooth, clear, medium-light, long. 93+/A
2017 (Forst) Ungeheuer Riesling GG
Intense, round, peach in its fullest expression. Deep, complete, long. 95/A+
Reichsrat von BUHL
Von Buhl is now making wines in a very dry, reductive, steely style that contrasts with that of the other producers.
2016 (Forst) Freundstück Riesling GG
Closed nose. Fresh, pure, as usual, on the less ripe side. This wine is tightly-wound and still needs more time to express itself fully. 91+/A-
2016 (Forst) Jesuitengarten Riesling GG
Closed, subtle nose. A ripe, full yellow peach here with maybe a little apple thrown in, yet still cool and steely. Good tension. 92+/A
2016 (Forst) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
Nervy nectarine skin nose. Medium-light, intense, penetrating, fresh, concentrated apricot fruit. Great energy. 94/A
Dr. BÜRKLIN-WOLF
2016 (Forst) Pechstein Riesling GG
Lemony nose. Medium-full body, mineral white peach; firm texture; still needs time to open. 92(+)/A
2016 (Forst) Ungeheuer Riesling GG
Floral white peach nose. Somewhat spicy (in sense of cayenne, red pepper), but subtly so; fresh, intense white peach in medium-weight body. Excellent concentration. Long. 93+/A
Georg MOSBACHER
2017 (Forst) Freundstück Riesling GG
Closed nose with some white peach floral notes. White peach fruit that is more towards the less ripe scale; fresh, firm, some energy, good length. 91/A-
2017 (Forst) Jesuitengarten Riesling GG
Very mineral white peach in nose and mouth. Long, complex, changing. 93(+)/A
2017 (Forst) Pechstein Riesling GG
White peach nose. White and yellow peach mouth, medium-light, elegant, complete, long. 93+/A
2017 (Forst) Ungeheuer Riesling GG
Floral, white and yellow nectarine nose. Spicy red pepper, pure, crystalline, medium-weight, penetrating, smooth texture, white peach. 93+/A
Georg SIBEN Erben
2017 (Forst) Ungeheuer Riesling GG
Floral, white peach nose. Medium-light, firm, tightly-knit, yellow peach, long; a touch rustic. 92+/A