Domaines Philippe CHARLOPIN (Gevrey-Chambertin), HARMAND-GEOFFROY (Gevrey-Chambertin), and Cécile TREMBLAY (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples
The first two estates are moving to a style that is less extracted and (to my palate) more balanced. The third one has always been there.
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Domaine Jean-Michel GUILLON (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples
Looking for an under-the-radar producer in Gevrey? For several years now, Guillon would be my top choice.
Domaine Bruno CLAIR (Marsannay) -- 2018 Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin Tasted from Cask Samples
While good, these wines showed a little below my expectations for this famous estate.
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Ridge Vineyards -- 2020 Releases Available from the Winery
Ridge Vineyards -- Spring 2020 National Release
These are ripe wines with quite a bit of alcohol and oak, but they are not over the top.
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Domaine David DUBAND/François FEUILLET (Chevannes) -- 2018 Tasted from Cask Samples
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)
David Duband said that harvesting began on 3 September. The first grapes to come in were at 12.5-13º potential alcohol, and after nine days, the grapes being harvested were still in the mid-13’s. Yields were good, comparable to 2017: 35 hl/ha for the grands crus, 45-48 hl/ha for the premiers crus, and 50 hl/ha for the village wines. Whole clusters were 60% for the Hautes Côtes and village wines, 75% for the premier cru wines, and 90% for the grands crus. Vinification was standard; no modifications of punching down (pigeage) or other aspects. Malolactic fermentations went very fast.
(Wines bottled under the Feuillet label are identical to those bottled under the Duband label.)
Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2018 Part III: White Wines Tasted from Bottle and Cask Sample
My overview of how the 2018 vintage went at Drouhin is here.
I found the whites to include some wines that simply were not very good, a shocking situation for Drouhin, one of the finest and most consistent producers in Burgundy. Perhaps these disappointing wines, which I have not found in well over thirty years of tasting through Drouhin’s wines, are a reflection of the very complicated and fast ripening process at harvest? My notes here are only on the wines that I found to be of sufficiently good quality.
Wines that were in bottle when I tasted them in most cases had been bottled several months before and so should have recovered from any bottle sickness.
Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) 2018 Part II -- Red Wines from the Côte de Nuits Tasted from Barrel Samples
Harvesting on the Côte de Nuits began on 5 September with the grand cru vineyards. Other information about the 2018 harvest at Drouhin is here.
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Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2018 Part I: Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Cask Samples and Bottle
(Please see my overall view of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Harvesting on the Côte de Beaune began with the Corton-Charlemagne on 29 August and largely was finished on the Côte de Beaune by 6 September. The best whole clusters were selected, making the wines generally 25-50% whole clusters. Pumping over generally was used instead of punching down, and macerations lasted between 15 and 21 days. There was no acidification of the reds except maybe the press wine (which was largely not used, so essentially no acidification). Alcohols generally range between 12.5º and 14.3º.
Domaine de la POUSSE D' OR (Volnay) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Nuits Tasted from Samples
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
The usual policy at the domaine is to harvest quite late, but in 2018, the harvest was early, beginning on 27 August. Quantities in 2018 were larger than 2017, but not by a large amount. All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished in mid-winter. Alcohols are in the area of 13.2-13.3º.
Usually, we start with the Côte de Beaune wines, but for some unknown reason, the Côte de Nuits wines have been very slow to develop and so we start with them first. I taste from Coravined sample bottles, something I dislike because I think it is unflattering to the wines.
Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Samples and Barrel
(Please see my over view of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair said that he began harvesting on 2 September. Alcohols range from 12.5º to 14º. A few wines use whole cluster fruit. Malolactic fermentations were very quick in 2018. All wines are in 100% new oak.
Overall yields for the past four vintages:
2016: 22 hl/ha
2017: 34 hl/ha
2018: 32 hl/ha
2019: 19 hl/ha
Domaine ROLLIN Père & Fils (Pernand-Vergelesses) -- 2018 Part I: Red Wines Tasted from Bottle and Tank Samples
Please see my overall comments on the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Simon Rollin, who began working with father Rémi in 2003, is now fully in charge at the domaine. He said that he began harvesting on 31 August with the reds. Quantities were “good.” As usual, the reds were 100% destemmed. There was a three-week cuvaison, and malolactic fermentations were done by December. Alcohols are in the range of 13-13.5º.
As the notes below indicate, this is an estate that got the vintage right.
Domaine Comtesse de CHÉRISEY/MARTELET-CHÉRISEY (Hameau de Blagny) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle and a 2014 to Compare
Following the tasting of the great 2018s described here, I was able to compare by tasting the wines from the superb 2017 vintage.
Harvesting in 2017 began on 30 August. The wines were bottled between 30 April and 3 May 2019. All the alcohols are around 13º.
Domaine Comtesse de CHÉRISEY/MARTELET DE CHÉRISEY (Hameau de Blagny) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Samples
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d'Or here.)
Were it not for 2014, 2017 would be the best white Burgundy vintage I have seen. But there are exceptions, and this estate proves it by producing 2018s that are the equal to, and maybe even better than, the outstanding 2017s. The estate goes by the name Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey and Domaine Martelet de Chérisey, depending on the market, The vines are all located around the estate in the village of Blagny, and so are at relatively high altitudes. Although not well known, it produces some of the greatest white Burgundy that I know.
Were it not for 2014, 2017 would be the best white Burgundy vintage I have seen. But there are exceptions, and this estate proves it by producing 2018s that are the equal to, and maybe even better than, the outstanding 2017s. The estate goes by the name Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey and Domaine Martelet de Chérisey, depending on the market, The vines are all located around the estate in the village of Blagny, and so are at relatively high altitudes. Although not well known, it produces some of the greatest white Burgundy that I know.
Harvesting in 2018 began on 23 August and finished on 1 September. The harvesters looked for the parts of each parcel that were ready and then came back subsequently for the parts that needed further ripening. Alcohols are 12.5-13º. All wines went through malolactic fermentation. Vinification and élévage were 1/3 in tank, 2/3 in cask.
Domaine Sylvain CATHIARD (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overall comments on the 2018 Côte d’ Or vintage here.)
Sébastien Cathiard said that he began harvesting on 8 September and finished on the 11th. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.5º. No whole clusters were used in 2018. Malolactic fermentations finished between March and July. Following malos, pHs ranged from 3.45 to 3.55.
Sébastien Cathiard said that he began harvesting on 8 September and finished on the 11th. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.5º. No whole clusters were used in 2018. Malolactic fermentations finished between March and July. Following malos, pHs ranged from 3.45 to 3.55.
The good news is that this tiny estate (4.6 ha exploited in 2018) is expanding (8.35 ha exploited in 2019). The new vineyards are all regional appellations, but the quality even at that level is very high here. There are new farming agreements for Bourgogne-Aligoté and Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Chardonnay, there will be two cuvées of Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Pinot Noir, and an additional 1/3 ha of Bourgogne Pinot Noir from vines located in Gevrey-Chambertin below the route nationale.
Domaine G./Christophe* ROUMIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overall comments on the 2018 Côte d’ Or vintage here.)
Christophe Roumier said that he began harvesting on 5 September. Harvesting lasted six days and he characterized it as “easy” and “quick.” Yields were normal and less than in 2017. Alcohols were relatively high -- up to 14.2º, although most were in the 13.2-14.0º range. Whole clusters are 35% for the village wine, about 50% in the premier cru wines and 55% in the grand cru wines. Christophe performed very little punchdown (pigeage) in 2018. Malolactic fermentations began in April and finished in July.
Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are labelled as Christophe Roumier; the other wines are labelled Domaine G. Roumier.
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