Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2015 Part I: Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Bottle and Cask Samples

(Originally published 16 March 2017.)

The story of the vintage here is similar to elsewhere: early and rapid flowering, some fungal diseases that were, however, successfully treated, dry July that retarded veraison (turning of color of the grapes) a little, rain in August that provided freshness and ripening for the grapes. The heat over the summer provided for ripe grapes and tannins and thickened the grape skins. 

Harvesting began on 2 September. The health of the grapes and uniform ripening due to the rapid flowering meant that there was very little sorting of the grapes required. Yields for the Côte d’Or reds were low to very low. Generally vinifications lasted two to three weeks and were adapted to the conditions of the vintage in order to preserve freshness and elegance. In particular, there was no bâtonnage (stirring of the lees), but the wines were kept on the lees in order to preserve freshness. 

Drouhin’s estate vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since at least 1996.

2015 Coteaux Bourguignons
This wine is 20% Pinot Noir, 80% Gamay, all destemmed. The fruit is dark (especially cassis), fresh, and crunchy. The texture is smooth and the wine has good density and length. 12.5% stated alcohol. 87(+)/A-

2015 Rully
From both estate and purchased grapes that were entirely destemmed, this wine is medium-weight with red fruits, a smooth texture, and good density, length, and drive. (86-89)

2015 Chorey-les-Beaune
This wine, reliable in every vintage, is made from Drouhin’s own fruit and purchased grapes. Harvesting took place between 3 and 11 September. All grapes were destemmed. The wine is light with pure red fruits. There is dense texture and good length. (85-88)

2015 Savigny-les-Beaune    Clos des Godeaux
From Drouhin’s own vines, I suspect that this wine was suffering from recent bottling when I tasted it. Harvesting took place on 9 September and all fruit was destemmed. The wine is smooth and light with light minerality to red and dark fruits. There’s also a touch of rust and some herbal notes. 86(+?)/B-

2015 Côte de Beaune
This wine is from Drouhin vineyards in the Côte de Beaune appellation and also includes declassified Beaune village and premier cru sites. Harvesting took place between 10 and 15 September, and all fruit was destemmed. The wine is medium-weight with good density. It has expressive red cherry and other red fruits, good energy and penetration, and a velvet texture. It should be an excellent value. (88-92)

2015 Beaune     1er Cru    Grèves
The Beaune-Grèves is consistently one of Drouhin’s most underrated wines. From vines that Drouhin owns, harvesting was on 9 September. 20% whole clusters in this wine. The wine is light on the palate with dark fruits that cascades from layer to layer, and the wine shows good firmness and length. Usual production is 12 barrels (3600 bottles), but in 2015 it is only 7. (92-95)

2015 Beaune    1er Cru    Clos des Mouches
Drouhin’s flagship property was essentially ground zero for the catastrophic 2012-13-14 hails. The three consecutive vintages of hail left the vines weakened, so perhaps that explains why I didn’t find the wine quite as outstanding as I would have expected. There’s some reduction still in the nose. The mouth was dense and deep but without the energy of the Côte de Beaune, for example. There is some minerality to go with the cassis fruit, but this wine clearly needs further time to develop. Harvested 7 September, 20% whole clusters. Yield here was about 18-20 hl/ha. (90-93)