Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2015 Reds Tasted from Barrel, a 2015 White Tasted from Bottle, and a 2014 Red Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 14 March 2017.)

Gregory Gouges said that with the dry summer, the grass in the vineyards took water from the vines in 2015. As a result, he removed a number of grape bunches over the summer. Harvesting began on 1 September and lasted 4-1/2 days. Importantly, he was able to keep the acidity. Overall, yield was just 24 hl/ha., ranging from 18 hl/ha for the Vaucrains (the lowest) to 33 hl/ha for the Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges (the highest). (The estate was hit hard by the freeze in 2016, and overall yield is only 16 hl/ha for the estate in 2016, although Gregory says that the quality is very good; some wines, such as the Chènes Carteaux, will not be produced in 2016 because the quantities were so small.)

The grapes here were entirely destemmed, as is customary. Malolactic fermentations were early because of the warm winter, and all were finished by mid-January. Gregory expected an early bottling, beginning in December 2016. Alcohols range from 12.7º to 13.3º. 

These are very good wines, but as is the case with so many estates, don’t loose sight of the outstanding 2014s.

2015 Bourgogne    Pinot Noir
The wine has dark fruit and minerality with good concentration, roundness, and freshness — an example of how the right Bourgognes in this vintage can provide great quality.  (88-91)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges
The village Nuits has mineral dark fruit aromas. In the mouth, the wine is light on the palate with finesse and good minerality. This wine shows more elegance than the Bourgogne.  (88-92)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1er Cru     Les Chaignots
The Chaignots has dark fruit with spices. The wine is medium-weight and shows finesse and length. (90-93)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges     1er Cru   Chènes Carteaux
The Chènes Carteaux is more powerful and structured than the Chaignots but still retains the elegance. The fruit is dark and the texture is silky. (90-94)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1er Cru   Clos des Porrets St-Georges
The Clos des Porrets has more structure than the foregoing and is salty and mineral in its dark fruit. It’s a wine very true to its terroir. Gouges has 15 parcels here with vines ranging from 15 to 100 years-old, average age is 50 years. (91-95)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges     1er Cru    Les Pruliers
Gouges’s Pruliers is smooth in texture with deep dark fruits that are slightly balsamic. The wine is round and enrobing in the mouth, but with tannins to provide for aging and good length. (91-95)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges     1er Cru     Les Vaucrains
The Vaucrains has great minerality in the nose. The mouth is smooth, round, and enveloping with some minerality along with smoothness and creaminess. (92-95)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1er Cru    Les Saint-Georges
The Les Saint-Georges displays minerality, dark fruits, smoothness and even creaminess, along with excellent length. (92-96)

2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1er Cru    Les Perrières blanc
The white Les Perrières has mineral aromas. The mouth is round with vanillins, stoniness, a smooth texture that is almost creamy, and honeysuckle flavors. 90+/B+

2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1er Cru   Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges
The nose here is intense and smoky. The mouth shows a touch of creaminess with good energy and weight. The dark fruits are long.  93(+)/A