Wines from Savoie Recently Tasted (Part I): ARDOISIÈRES/OMONT, CRAY/A. BERLIOZ, CURTET, FINOT, JACQUARD, PEILLOT
Long a region for ski wine, things have been changing, and there's an increasing number of producers of interest here. (Continue reading here.)
ONNET-HUTEAU, BRAUD, CHABOISSIÈRES/HALLEREAU, CHERRIER, COLIN, CÔTES BLANCHES, COTTAT/VALLÉE DES VIGNES, DEZAT/CHASSEIGNES, DELHOMMEAU
Two hot years with some good results, some less good with low acidity and/or high alcohol. (Continue reading here.)
Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted Part I (BELLE, G. COURBIS, L. & D. COURBIS, FARGE, FAURY)
All wines below are red unless otherwise noted. (Continue reading here.)
Ridge Vineyards -- Fall 2020 National Releases
Ridge’s Fall National Release wines below go on sale Tuesday, September 1. (Continue reading here.)
Domaines François LECLERC, Philippe LECLERC, Thierry MORTET, and Philippe ROSSIGNOL (all Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples
A selection of wines maybe worth watching, but no rush to buy at this time.
(Continue reading here.)
(Continue reading here.)
Domaines Philippe CHARLOPIN (Gevrey-Chambertin), HARMAND-GEOFFROY (Gevrey-Chambertin), and Cécile TREMBLAY (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples
The first two estates are moving to a style that is less extracted and (to my palate) more balanced. The third one has always been there.
(Continue reading here.)
(Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean-Michel GUILLON (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel Samples
Looking for an under-the-radar producer in Gevrey? For several years now, Guillon would be my top choice.
Domaine Bruno CLAIR (Marsannay) -- 2018 Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin Tasted from Cask Samples
While good, these wines showed a little below my expectations for this famous estate.
(Continue reading here.)
(Continue reading here.)
Ridge Vineyards -- 2020 Releases Available from the Winery
Ridge Vineyards -- Spring 2020 National Release
These are ripe wines with quite a bit of alcohol and oak, but they are not over the top.
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(Continue reading here.)
Domaine David DUBAND/François FEUILLET (Chevannes) -- 2018 Tasted from Cask Samples
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)
David Duband said that harvesting began on 3 September. The first grapes to come in were at 12.5-13º potential alcohol, and after nine days, the grapes being harvested were still in the mid-13’s. Yields were good, comparable to 2017: 35 hl/ha for the grands crus, 45-48 hl/ha for the premiers crus, and 50 hl/ha for the village wines. Whole clusters were 60% for the Hautes Côtes and village wines, 75% for the premier cru wines, and 90% for the grands crus. Vinification was standard; no modifications of punching down (pigeage) or other aspects. Malolactic fermentations went very fast.
(Wines bottled under the Feuillet label are identical to those bottled under the Duband label.)
Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2018 Part III: White Wines Tasted from Bottle and Cask Sample
My overview of how the 2018 vintage went at Drouhin is here.
I found the whites to include some wines that simply were not very good, a shocking situation for Drouhin, one of the finest and most consistent producers in Burgundy. Perhaps these disappointing wines, which I have not found in well over thirty years of tasting through Drouhin’s wines, are a reflection of the very complicated and fast ripening process at harvest? My notes here are only on the wines that I found to be of sufficiently good quality.
Wines that were in bottle when I tasted them in most cases had been bottled several months before and so should have recovered from any bottle sickness.
Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) 2018 Part II -- Red Wines from the Côte de Nuits Tasted from Barrel Samples
Harvesting on the Côte de Nuits began on 5 September with the grand cru vineyards. Other information about the 2018 harvest at Drouhin is here.
(Continue reading here.)
(Continue reading here.)
Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2018 Part I: Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Cask Samples and Bottle
(Please see my overall view of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Harvesting on the Côte de Beaune began with the Corton-Charlemagne on 29 August and largely was finished on the Côte de Beaune by 6 September. The best whole clusters were selected, making the wines generally 25-50% whole clusters. Pumping over generally was used instead of punching down, and macerations lasted between 15 and 21 days. There was no acidification of the reds except maybe the press wine (which was largely not used, so essentially no acidification). Alcohols generally range between 12.5º and 14.3º.
Domaine de la POUSSE D' OR (Volnay) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Nuits Tasted from Samples
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
The usual policy at the domaine is to harvest quite late, but in 2018, the harvest was early, beginning on 27 August. Quantities in 2018 were larger than 2017, but not by a large amount. All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished in mid-winter. Alcohols are in the area of 13.2-13.3º.
Usually, we start with the Côte de Beaune wines, but for some unknown reason, the Côte de Nuits wines have been very slow to develop and so we start with them first. I taste from Coravined sample bottles, something I dislike because I think it is unflattering to the wines.
Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Samples and Barrel
(Please see my over view of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair said that he began harvesting on 2 September. Alcohols range from 12.5º to 14º. A few wines use whole cluster fruit. Malolactic fermentations were very quick in 2018. All wines are in 100% new oak.
Overall yields for the past four vintages:
2016: 22 hl/ha
2017: 34 hl/ha
2018: 32 hl/ha
2019: 19 hl/ha
Domaine ROLLIN Père & Fils (Pernand-Vergelesses) -- 2018 Part I: Red Wines Tasted from Bottle and Tank Samples
Please see my overall comments on the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Simon Rollin, who began working with father Rémi in 2003, is now fully in charge at the domaine. He said that he began harvesting on 31 August with the reds. Quantities were “good.” As usual, the reds were 100% destemmed. There was a three-week cuvaison, and malolactic fermentations were done by December. Alcohols are in the range of 13-13.5º.
As the notes below indicate, this is an estate that got the vintage right.
Domaine Comtesse de CHÉRISEY/MARTELET-CHÉRISEY (Hameau de Blagny) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle and a 2014 to Compare
Following the tasting of the great 2018s described here, I was able to compare by tasting the wines from the superb 2017 vintage.
Harvesting in 2017 began on 30 August. The wines were bottled between 30 April and 3 May 2019. All the alcohols are around 13º.
Domaine Comtesse de CHÉRISEY/MARTELET DE CHÉRISEY (Hameau de Blagny) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank Samples
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d'Or here.)
Were it not for 2014, 2017 would be the best white Burgundy vintage I have seen. But there are exceptions, and this estate proves it by producing 2018s that are the equal to, and maybe even better than, the outstanding 2017s. The estate goes by the name Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey and Domaine Martelet de Chérisey, depending on the market, The vines are all located around the estate in the village of Blagny, and so are at relatively high altitudes. Although not well known, it produces some of the greatest white Burgundy that I know.
Were it not for 2014, 2017 would be the best white Burgundy vintage I have seen. But there are exceptions, and this estate proves it by producing 2018s that are the equal to, and maybe even better than, the outstanding 2017s. The estate goes by the name Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey and Domaine Martelet de Chérisey, depending on the market, The vines are all located around the estate in the village of Blagny, and so are at relatively high altitudes. Although not well known, it produces some of the greatest white Burgundy that I know.
Harvesting in 2018 began on 23 August and finished on 1 September. The harvesters looked for the parts of each parcel that were ready and then came back subsequently for the parts that needed further ripening. Alcohols are 12.5-13º. All wines went through malolactic fermentation. Vinification and élévage were 1/3 in tank, 2/3 in cask.
Domaine Sylvain CATHIARD (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overall comments on the 2018 Côte d’ Or vintage here.)
Sébastien Cathiard said that he began harvesting on 8 September and finished on the 11th. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.5º. No whole clusters were used in 2018. Malolactic fermentations finished between March and July. Following malos, pHs ranged from 3.45 to 3.55.
Sébastien Cathiard said that he began harvesting on 8 September and finished on the 11th. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.5º. No whole clusters were used in 2018. Malolactic fermentations finished between March and July. Following malos, pHs ranged from 3.45 to 3.55.
The good news is that this tiny estate (4.6 ha exploited in 2018) is expanding (8.35 ha exploited in 2019). The new vineyards are all regional appellations, but the quality even at that level is very high here. There are new farming agreements for Bourgogne-Aligoté and Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Chardonnay, there will be two cuvées of Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Pinot Noir, and an additional 1/3 ha of Bourgogne Pinot Noir from vines located in Gevrey-Chambertin below the route nationale.
Domaine G./Christophe* ROUMIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overall comments on the 2018 Côte d’ Or vintage here.)
Christophe Roumier said that he began harvesting on 5 September. Harvesting lasted six days and he characterized it as “easy” and “quick.” Yields were normal and less than in 2017. Alcohols were relatively high -- up to 14.2º, although most were in the 13.2-14.0º range. Whole clusters are 35% for the village wine, about 50% in the premier cru wines and 55% in the grand cru wines. Christophe performed very little punchdown (pigeage) in 2018. Malolactic fermentations began in April and finished in July.
Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are labelled as Christophe Roumier; the other wines are labelled Domaine G. Roumier.
Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle
My review of the 2017 de Vogüé wines tasted a year earlier from barrel is here.
The village wine was bottled in January 2019, the others in late March and early April 2019.
François Millet said that the key to 2017 is to control the yields. Chambolle-Musigny had very low yields in 2016 due to frost, and vines that have suffered from frost one year typically overproduce the following year. De Vogüé did a green harvest in 2017 to contain the yields; no saigné (bleeding of the vats). As marvelous as the 2018s are, the 2017s will give them a good run for the money.
Domaine Comte Georges de VOGÜÉ (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overview of 2018 in the Côte d’ Or here.)
François Millet said that harvesting began on 30 August. Out of caution not to over extract, only the Bonnes-Mares received punch downs (pigeage), and yet these wines are notable for their dark opaque colors. Alcohols range from 13.5º to 14º. Yields were about 20% less than in 2017, roughly 30 hl/ha vs. 35 hl/ha. In order to delay malolactic fermentation, the cellars were air conditioned, but it was necessary to go down to 5º C (41º F) to accomplish the delay.
Millet says that 2018 is a vintage that is out of time, and as such it must not become a benchmark for judging other vintages.
This is one of the most memorable cellars that I visited while tasting 2018s.
Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
Please see background on the harvest at Mortet here.
These are wines that Arnaud Mortet makes from vineyards that he farms. In some cases, they are the same appellations as Domaine Denis Mortet’s wines, but different plots within the appellations that he does not own.
Domaine Denis MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Arnaud Mortet said that he began harvesting on 3 September and it went very fast. Alcohols did not exceed 13.6-13.7º. He performed a big green harvest, the largest since 1999, and would up with 45 hl/ha for the village wines, 40-45 hl/ha for the premier and grand cru wines. Whole clusters in some wines, not in others this vintage. Some wines finished malolactic fermentation in January and February, others were later at the usual time. Arnaud has shortened vinifications compared to the past.
The three relatively new grands crus, Echézeaux, Mazis-Chambertin, and Bonnes Mares, are included.
Domaine DUJAC (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Part III -- Whites Tasted from Tank
My introduction to the 2018 vintage at Dujac is here.
Some of the whites are acidified, but not the Monts Luisants, which despite having gone through malolactic fermentation has a pH below 3!
These wines are yet another example of the surprising quality of 2018 whites.
Domaine DUJAC and DUJAC Père & Fils (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Part I: Dujac Village Reds and Dujac P&F Reds
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Jeremy Seysses said that the harvest began with the whites in Puligny on 27-28 August, and on 30 August he began to harvest the reds. On 12 September the last of the Fils & Père wines came in, finishing the harvest. There was some change from the usual order of harvesting; in particular, the village wines came in first because they suffered less water stress. Yields were generous, comparable to 1999. Alcohols are generally normal, with Gevrey-Chambertin Fils & Père wines and the Gruenchers being above 14º, then the estate Morey-St-Denis being 13.7º, and the rest 12.5-13.5º. Use of whole clusters was in the range of 85-90%, and there was less punching down (pigeage) than usual in order to avoid over-extraction. Malolactic fermentations started early and finished a little earlier than usual (which nevertheless is later than in the 1980s and 1990s, when Dujac was one of the estates I visited that typically had very early malos).
For those lucky enough to have access to Domaine Dujac wines, this was one of the most memorable estates that I visited last autumn -- buy whatever you can access and afford.
Domaine Jean CHAUVENET (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle
My notes on all of Chauvenet’s 2017s tasted from barrel in November 2017 are here.
These wines were bottled in February 2019.
Christophe Drag nailed it in the 2017 vintage -- if you come across the wines, don’t miss them.
Domaine Jean CHAUVENET (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’Or here.)
Christophe Drag said that he started harvesting on 8 September and until 12 September the sugars (and hence resulting alcohols) were correct; after that date, the sugars rose very fast, and so he sold off all that was harvested after the 12th. All grapes were destemmed. About 20% new oak in the village wines, 20-30% in the premier cru wines. Malolactic fermentations finished in June and July.
The vines here were affected by the first (15 July) of the three hails that hit Nuits-Saint-Georges in 2018, but the vines in the Rue de Chaux vineyard and all on the Côte de Vosne were spared; thus, it was Les Poulettes, Perrières, and Vaucrains that suffered from the hail, resulting in a loss of 1/3 of the crop in those vineyards.
This is an fine selection of wines, worthy of your consideration should you come across them.
Domaine Ghislaine BARTHOD (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please read my general assessment of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
As I mentioned in my notes on Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, son Clément worked with Ghislaine for the 2018 vintage and has taken over as of the 2019 vintage.
Harvesting here began on 26 August. Yields were in the range of 30-35 hl/ha, about 25-30% less than in 2017. Malo-lactic fermentations finished in January and February.
As always, splendid wines here. The range of premiers crus has increased to eleven.
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric MUGNIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Frédéric Mugnier said that harvesting began with the Bonnes-Mares on 28 August -- the parcel had suffered from drought, receiving no rain from July until October. The harvesting for the other Chambolle vineyards began on 1 September, and the Nuits were harvested on 8 September. He said that quantities were good. Alcohols for the Chambolle wines were between 13º and 13.5º; for the Clos de la Maréchale (which had suffered from the hail over the summer, with half the crop lost in red, a little less in white), they are 14º to 14.5º. Some malo-lactic fermentations went quickly, others not.
He noted that over the last five years, acidities have been good despite high sugar levels (which correspond to high alcohols). This is the effect of global warming, and it will be necessary to rethink standard rules in dealing with this changed environment.
Domaine ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
Harvesting began on 4 September and lasted eight days. The wines are about half whole clusters. Very little triage was necessary. Quantities are good, similar to 2009. No pigeage (punching down) here, only remontage (pumping over) and a little délestage (rack and return). Alcohols range from 13º to 13.5º. Malo-lactic fermentations went very quickly.
These are good wines for the vintage, but as noted below, some lack tension compared to more classic vintages.
Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part III: Beaujolais Crus Tasted from Barrel
Louis Boillot purchased properties in the Beaujolais some years back and from the beginning has been making some of the most delicious wines that I know from that region. I’ve had plenty of 2018 Beaujolais that I did not like, but that’s anything but the case here.
Vinification is the same as at the Boillot estate for the Côte d’ Or wines.
The wines were tasted in November 2019 with plans to bottle them in May or June 2020.
Domaine Louis BOILLOT & Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2018 Part I: Côte de Beaune Wines Tasted from Barrel
(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d’ Or here.)
2018 is a transitional year at the estate as Clément Boillot, son of Louis Boillot and Ghislaine Barthod, fermented the wines here with his father (and likewise fermented at his mother’s estate with her). In 2019, Clément assumed primary responsibility, with the parents of course around to help or advise as needed.
Harvesting began in Volnay on 25 August (and on the Côte de Nuits on the following day). Because vineyards ripened at different times, it took three separate passes in the Côte de Beaune to harvest.
Malo-lactic fermentations finished in the winter. Alcohols range from 12.8º to 13.8 or 14º. There were one or two punchdowns (pigeages) per day.
Consistency and quality could be the motto here, and once again they show in 2018.
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