Joseph DROUHIN 2022 Part I -- Whites Tasted from Cask Samples

 

Subscribe to my free Substack blog and receive email notification of all new posts.

This sampling of Drouhin’s 2022 whites and that of the 2022 reds that will be in my subsequent post provide yet evidence of the great success of the 2022 vintage. I hope to be able to taste more of Drouhin’s 2022’s later this autumn.

At the opening level, there are good wines that should not cause the shock of the prices for prestige vineyards in white Burgundy. Further down, the prices will undoubtedly be higher because of limited supply and increasing demand, but the quality is there. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2022 Tasted from Barrel and Tank, Part II: White Wines

 

Subscribe for free to my Substack and receive notification of new posts.

As with the red wines here, the wines are in a ripe style. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY/Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2018 Tasted from Tank and Barrel

(Please read my overview of the 2018 vintage in Burgundy here.)

Pierrick Bouley said the harvested the Champans on 26 August and the Clos des Chênes the following day, but really began the harvest on 30 August. Overall yield for the estate was 42 hl/ha — reasonable for the vintage and less than the estate harvested in 2017.

All grapes were destemmed. Vatting lasted 18-25 days. Malo-lactic fermentations were rapid, with some even before the alcoholic fermentations had finished (I detected no problems with brett or volatile acidity, which can sometimes occur in such circimstances). Vinification was without SO₂ until racking, which took place in September 2019. 

Another excellent vintage from this Volnay estate that still remains a bit under the radar. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2018 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overall vintage review here.)

An outstanding set of wines here, notwithstanding the challenging conditions of the vintage.

Jean-Nicolas Méo said that harvesting began on 29 August at Corton and then continued on 1 September for the Clos-de-Vougeot. Yields were generous, some vineyards set records. There was some green harvesting over the summer, too. The wines are between 12.9% and 14% alcohol. Malic acidities were low, and the malo-lactic fermentations accordingly were quick. Almost all wines were from entirely destemmed grapes. 

In spring and early summer, Vosne-Romanée suffered quite a bit of mildew and some oïdium after that. As a result, although the estate has long followed organic practices, in 2018 it was necessary to use some chemical treatments. From 15 July on, there were no more problems in the vineyards.

Jean-Nicolas compares the vintage to 1989 and 1985, two ripe vintages that have lasted well. 

These wines were served from samples that had been bottled and then a Coravin was used for serving, a practice that makes wines more difficult for me to judge. (Continue reading here.)

Maison de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2018 Whites from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage here and my introduction to the vintage at de Montille here.)

The lack of biodynamic viticulture and other control over the vineyard in the extreme 2018 vintage show in these wines compared to the Domaine whites. These are not bad, but clearly a step below the Domaine wines in 2018.

All the wines below are from purchases of musts. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET and MÉO-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Tank and Barrel Samples

(Originally published January 2018)

Jean-Nicolas Méo said that for Vosne-Romanée vineyards, the yields were fairly normal; for Clos-de-Vougeot, they were about 70-75% normal; and for the négociant wines, they were about 2/3 of normal, although for Chambolle-Musigny, that figure was only 1/3.

Harvesting generally began on 26 September, although a little was taken in on the 24th. Not much sorting was necessary. No chaptalization was done, and yet alcohols are just a little above those of 2015. Malolactic fermentations finished in March, April, and May, which is rather normal. Jean-Nicolas noted that lab analyses of the pHs show higher that he thought — most are around 3.5, although a few are around 3.7.

Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are négociant wines under the Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs label. (Continue reading here.)

Maison DEux MONTILLE and Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) -- 2017 Whites Tasted from Bottle and Barrel and Tank Samples

Although 2017 is generally more favorable for white wines than for reds, these wines, while very good, do not stand out to the same extent that the previously-reviewed de Montille reds do. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY/Pascal BOULEY/Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2017 Tasted from Cask and Tank Samples

These wines are sold under slightly different labels in various markets, but the wines are all the same.

Pierrick Bouley said that he harvested the Volnay-Ronceret vineyard on 28 August, and then paused, with the rest of the harvested continuing from 2 to 9 September. Yields were 42 hl/ha, modest considering that vines affected by frost, as almost all of Bouley’s were in 2016, usually produce abundantly. In 2018, Bouley, as with the majority producers I visited, had higher yields, 45 hl/ha for the whole estate.

All grapes were destemmed. There was no chaptalization, and alcohols for the premiers crus are 12.5-13.5º. Other than the village Monthélie, which saw no new wood, new oak is 10-25% on these wines. Malic acidities here were relatively low, and the malo-lactic fermentations went quickly. No SO₂ was added until racking.

The wines here are very good and worthy of your interest, especially as this estate is still not fully recognized for the quality of the wines produced. (Continue reading here.)