(Originally published 7 January 2017.)
As with the majority of producers, quantities are small for 2015 at Rousseau. Harvesting began on 3 September. There was minimal chaptalization to extend fermentation. Alcohols are all at least 12.5º. As usual, no whole clusters here, but a small amount of stems was added to the fermenters. Malolactic fermentations finished in March.
As with the majority of producers, quantities are small for 2015 at Rousseau. Harvesting began on 3 September. There was minimal chaptalization to extend fermentation. Alcohols are all at least 12.5º. As usual, no whole clusters here, but a small amount of stems was added to the fermenters. Malolactic fermentations finished in March.
These are excellent to great wines, yet having visited this estate annually for a quarter of a century, my feeling is that the very greatest Rousseau wines are not from the ripe vintages such as this one and 1990, 1999, 2005, and 2009 (which bring the highest prices at auction), but rather from the more classic Burgundian vintages such as 1991, 1993, 1998, and 2001. We’ll see what time gives us here.
The overall style of the vintage here is one of finesse and some may be surprised by the lighter colors and textures of the wines.
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin
Rousseau’s village Gevrey is precise and mineral with red currant and strawberry fruit in both nose and mouth, and it features good freshness. (89-92)
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques
The Lavaux Saint-Jacques has energy and tension in its stony nose and mouth. You really can taste the rock here. This is a very good expression of the vineyard. (91-94)
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Rousseau’s Gevrey-Cazetiers has floral aromas. The mouth is rounder and shows less tension than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. This wine is very light and elegant with excellent length and some minerality to its red currant fruit. (90-94)
2015 Charmes-Chambertin
Moving to the grands crus, the Charmes-Chambertin is smooth with dark fruit and finesse, but also rusticity. No new wood here or for any of the previous wines. (91-94)
2015 Mazy-Chambertin
The Mazy-Chambertin is light and elegant with an attractive, smooth texture. It shows red and black cherry flavors of good length, and almost laciness in the mouth. 10% new wood on this wine. (91-94)
2015 Clos de la Roche
The Clos de la Roche is dark, intense, and powerful with some animality, but the wine nevertheless retains its civility. Good Clos de la Roche tension here. 10% new oak here. (92-95)
2015 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes
Rousseau’s Ruchottes-Chambertin displays intense cherry and strawberry fruit with some minerality and overall lightness. 30% new oak here. (92-96)
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques
With the Clos Saint-Jacques, we have a major step-up in quality. The nose shows the classic Clos Saint-Jacques gamy fruit. The mouth also has a beautiful smooth texture with layered red fruit and minerality. Here the new oak has advanced to 70%. (94-97)
2015 Chambertin
For the second consecutive year, I was shown the Chambertin ahead of the Clos-de-Bèze. The perfumed nose is followed by density but also finesse on the palate with tannins and harmony. This wine is all about elegance, and those looking for a blockbuster should look elsewhere. 100% new oak. (95-98)
2015 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
The Chambertin-Clos de Bèze shows the typical musky aromas with dark fruit and good purity. The mouth is crystalline, penetrating, and powerful but with the finesse of the vintage. It is very true to its Clos-de-Bèze origins. Here, too, 100% new oak. (95-99)