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More promising than the Weisser Burgunder from Baden. (Continue reading here.)
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More promising than the Weisser Burgunder from Baden. (Continue reading here.)
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A slightly more satisfying group. (Continue reading here.)
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Here, too, a poor showing for Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here,)
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A small, but not very edifying, showing for Württemberg Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here.)
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Very good wines here, even if not the finest of Weisserburgunder vintages. (Continue reading here.)
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Weiss Burgunder (also known as Weiß Burgunder, Weisserburgunder, Weißerburgunder, and Pinot Blanc) performs uniquely well in Germany, and especially in the Pfalz region, where at its best it can be racy and pure. (Continue reading here.)
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Only two wines shown here at the Wiesbaden GG Preview, but they show that Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder) need not be a neutral, boring wine. (Continue reading here.)
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Frühburgunder is an earlier-ripening version of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and quite similar in overall presentation.
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I’m very sorry to say this, but some of the Ahr wines are just bad to my (Burgundy-trained Pinot Noir) palate, but others are clearly technically-flawed and should not have been allowed by the VDP to bear the GG designation or any designation related to VDP. (Continue reading here.)
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This is a region where I’ve rarely producers making wines that I could appreciate. That appears to be especially the case in 2020. Given the catastrophic losses of so many producers in 2021 as a result of the floods, I hesitated to post my notes on Ahr wines, but finally decided that if they were willing to label them as GG and show them, consumers were entitled to my views on the wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Alas, less promising wines here than with the Höllenbergs. (Continue reading here.)
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Wines from this vineyard have a track record of long ageability. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the northern part of Rheinhessen, less prestigious for Pinot Noir than the Wonnegau in the south, but still producing wines of interest. (Continue reading here.)
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Two winners and two losers. (Continue reading here.)
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Here we have Kinipser, one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir producers; Rings, who’s still a new kid on the block but rapidly demonstrating that he deserves to be in the top tier; and Philipp Kuhn, who may be just a little bit behind those two but also produces excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the central part of the Pfalz, some producers whom I normally like were somewhat disappointing in their 2019 offerings. Perhaps the wines have begun to close? Or perhaps its the character of the vintage here. (Continue reading here.)
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There are some good wines in this set, but not at the overall level of the Schweigen wines or the wines from these producers that I have seen in certain other vintages. (Continue reading here.)
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Schweigen is on the border with Alsace and these producers have some vines in French territory that is allowed to be labelled as German wine. (Continue reading here.)
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Somehow, most of the producers here just don’t make Spätburgunder that speaks to me. Dautel is the major exception. (Continue reading here.)
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A mixed bag here. (Continue reading here.)
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More outstanding wine from Fürst and an attractive one from Luckert. (Continue reading here.)
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Fürst is way ahead of everyone else . . . but you already knew that. (Continue reading here.)
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The wines of Ihringen finish off the Baden GG’s. (Continue reading here.)
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In the wake of the tragically premature death of Bernhard Huber, his wife and son continue to maintain the estate as one of the two finest for Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) in Germany (along with Rudolf Fürst). (Continue reading here.)
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Finishing off the report on Riesling GG; Spätburgunder up next. (Continue reading here.)
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Continued quality in Franken in 2021. (Continue reading here.)
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More mostly excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the last Riesling region, Franken, the excellence of the vintage continues. (Continue reading here.)
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Much more interesting results from this part of the region. (Continue reading here.)
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More irregularity here. (Continue reading here.)
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A mixed bag for this first group of Rieslings. (Continue reading here.)
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Finishing off what is an exceptional year for the Pfalz GG’s. (Continue reading here.)
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Fully into the southern sector of the Pfalz, and the exciting quality of the vintage continues with Rebholz and Minges. (Continue reading here.)
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Transitioning from the southern portion of the central Pfalz and into the southern Pfalz, the overall quality remains quite high. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the south central district of the Pfalz, the great wines continue. (Continue reading here.)
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Next, we move to Deidesheim, which is to Riesling in the Pfalz what Chambolle-Musigny is to Pinot Noir in the Côte d’Or, with tender, seductive wines. (Continue reading here.)
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We finish up Forst with Freundstück, a very good vineyard, but surclassed by Jesuitengarten, possibly the second best Riesling vineyard in the Pfalz, and Kirchenstück, the greatest Riesling vineyard in the Pfalz and maybe all of Germany and the world. This is Forst in all its glory. (Continue reading here.)
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The second of the magnificent Forst vineyards. (Continue reading here.)
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Now we begin the exploration of Forst, the Pfalz’s equivalent of Vosn-Romanée in Burgundy. All are excellent Ungeheurs, but Mosbacher and von Bassermann-Jordan have made two of the greatest Rieslings of the vintage (or any other). (Continue reading here.)
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This is one of the less-well-known parts of the Pfalz, but these are excellent producers making very fine wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Here we are in the northern part of the Pfalz, essentially the same region as the southern Rheinhessen with only a political boundary separating them. (Continue reading here.)
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Finishing up the Rheinhessen and about to begin the Pfalz: (Continue reading here.)
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Part 2 of Philipp Wittmann’s magnificent wines here. (Continue reading here.)
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I’ve mentioned breathtaking wines, and indeed there were some in the Nahe, but the Wonnegau begins another dimension. (Continue Reading here.)
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Auction wines from Klaus-Peter Keller, probably Germany’s most cultish producer: (Continue reading here.)
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Alas, lots of disappointments with this set. (Continue reading here.)
Frankly, I can’t choose between Martin Tesch’s great 2020s and these great 2021s, notwithstanding the fact that they are two completely different vintages in terms of heat and dryness. Maybe comparing them side-by-side I could express a preference, but either one will provide you with great wine and great value for your money in today’s market.
The Nahe has an incredible set of great producers, many of whom are in the VDP. Tesch was a member of the VDP, but chose to leave it; were he still there, these wines would rate quite highly in the GG tastings. (Continue reading here.)
There are very good wines here, but it’s not one of the star areas of the vintage, and indeed, I probably have a slight preference for 2020 in this region, based on what I’ve tasted. (Continue reading here.)
We now get into wines that have long been associated with the Rheinhessen, and in particular in the case of Nackenheim, with the famous Roter Hang, named for the red soils. (Continue reading here.)
As with the previous group of wines, these are from a part of the Rheinhessen that style-wise yields wines of Nahe character, but from within the Rheinhessen political boundary. (Continue reading here.)
Due to political boundaries of the regions, these wines are Rheinhessen, but based on location and style, should be considered Nahe wines akin to those in my previous post. (Continue reading here.)
This set is an excellent example of the extraordinary depth and quality of the VDP’s Nahe section. (Continue reading here.)
As I’ve pointed out previously, a transition is currently taking place at Ridge, where in March 2021 it was announced that John Olney was taking over as head winemaker and chief operating officer. The wines released since then seem less rustic and better balanced than some recent Ridge wines had been. (Continue reading here.)
The greatness we expect from Dönnhoff and outstanding wines from Karsten Peter at Gut Hermannsberg. (Continue reading here.)
Excellent wines from two estates that are too often overlooked when searching for top quality Nahe wines. (Continue reading here.)
Two of Germany’s great producers face off in a great vintage. What more could one want? (Continue reading here.)
Wines from one of Germany’s more obscure regions. (Continue reading here.)
More disappointments from the western Rheingau, with Prinz and Künstler as exceptions. (Continue reading here.)
With the exception of Johannishof, a very disappointing set of wines. (Continue reading here.)
As noted previously, many Rheingau estates are holding back their GG’s an extra year before release, so this set is entirely from 2020. (Continue reading here.)
In addition to the wines below, I tasted 2020 Hohenrain and 2020 Siegelsberg from Jacob Jung, but the wines were not representative of the quality I know from long experience to expect from Jung, and so I suspect that they were not representative and I am not reviewing them here. (Continue reading here.)
Again, a mixture of 2020 and 2021 vintages. (Continue reading here.)
In contrast to the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, where all the GG’s shown were 2021, an increasing number of Rheingau producers are holding their wines back for an extra year of aging, and so many of the new-release GG’s are from 2020. (Continue reading here.)
From the end of the Mosel, just before it empties into the Rhine, some unexpected unevenness in these wines. (Continue reading here.)
Clemens BUSCH
I can’t recall ever having had a disappointing wine from Clemens Busch, so these wines are no surprise. We’ve moved to the Lower Mosel, and so richer, more powerful wines than those in the Mittle Mosel. (Continue reading here.)
Notable in this group is the Josephshöfer, completely different from the 2020, which I found troubling. (Continue reading here.)
The late Wilhelm Haag’s sons Olivier and Thomas face off in a comparison of their outstanding wines. (Continue reading here.)
The uniform quality continues with the Piesport wines. (Continue reading here.)
Here we begin the journey down the Mosel River with good offerings from two outstanding producers. (Continue reading here.)
Von Schubert has great 2021s, and Karthäuserhof’s outstanding 2020 sets the table for its 2021 to be released next year. (Continue reading here.)
This is the last batch of the great 2021 Saar GG’s for now, but surely more will be shown next year. (Continue reading here.)
As with the previous group, the strength of Saar wines is apparent, but also inexplicable disappointment. (Continue reading here.)
The Saar is full of great wines in 2021, but for reasons I am currently unable to explain, there are also some disappointments. (Continue reading here.)
Finishing the 2020 and 2021 Silvaner GG’s, all showing the same high level of quality. (Continue reading here.)
More wines from Franken, where Silvaner can achieve a quality unmatched anywhere else in the world. (Continue reading here.)
Before we get to the Rieslings, I’ll start with Silvaner GG’s that were presented at the Wiesbaden tasting. Here, too, the 2021 vintage was very successful, as was the 2020 vintage. (Continue reading here.)
For the prior three days, I have been tasting Grosses Gewächs wines at the annual preview put on by the VDP, the group composed of many of the most elite wine estates in Germany; the wines will be released to the public on September 1. This was the 21st annual tasting of the wines, and I am privileged to have attended 19 of them (because of COVID restrictions, I could not enter Germany in 2020 and there was another tasting that I missed in the early 2000s). (Continue reading here.)
2020 Muscadets continue to impress at all price levels -- fortunately because 2021 was largely wiped out in the region. Other 2020 Loire whites seem to be less consistent. (Continue reading here.)