2020 Baden Weisser Burgunder Part II: Hinter Winkeln "Gras im Ofen", Weingarten "Wingerte", Winklerberg Pagode from Heger, Schlumberger-Bernhart, Stigler

 

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A slightly more satisfying group. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2019 Weisser Burgunder GG from Baden Part I: Feuerberg Haslen, Kirchberg, Steingrubenberg from Bercher and Salwey

 

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Here, too, a poor showing for Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here,)


2021 and 2020 Wûrttemberg Weisser Burgunder: Gips Marienglas, Hungerberg, and Schlossberg from Aldinger, Ellwanger, and Neipperg

 

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A small, but not very edifying, showing for Württemberg Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Weiss Burgunder GG from the Pfalz Part I -- Herrenberg, Kirschgarten, Langenmorgen, Mandelberg am Speyrer Weg from Bassermann-Jordan, Bergdolt/Sankt Lamprecht, Knipser, Kuhn, Pfeffingen

 


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Weiss Burgunder (also known as Weiß Burgunder, Weisserburgunder, Weißerburgunder, and Pinot Blanc) performs uniquely well in Germany, and especially in the Pfalz region, where at its best it can be racy and pure. (Continue reading here.)


2020 Franken Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc) Karthäuser and Stein-Berg from Juliusspital and Staatliche Hofkeller Würzburg

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Only two wines shown here at the Wiesbaden GG Preview, but they show that Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder) need not be a neutral, boring wine. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Ahr Frühburgunder GG -- Herrenberg, Mönchberg, Sonnenberg from Burggarten and Deutzerhof

 

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Frühburgunder is an earlier-ripening version of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and quite similar in overall presentation. 


(Continue reading here.)

2020 Ahr Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Burggarten, Kirchtürmchen, Landskrone, Rosenthal, Schieferlay from Burggarten, Deutzerhof, Nelles

 


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I’m very sorry to say this, but some of the Ahr wines are just bad to my (Burgundy-trained Pinot Noir) palate, but others are clearly technically-flawed and should not have been allowed by the VDP to bear the GG designation or any designation related to VDP. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Ahr Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Alte Lay, Eck, Kräuterberg, Mönchberg Spätburgunder GG from Adenauer, Burggarten, Deutzerhof

 

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This is a region where I’ve rarely producers making wines that I could appreciate. That appears to be especially the case in 2020. Given the catastrophic losses of so many producers in 2021 as a result of the floods, I hesitated to post my notes on Ahr wines, but finally decided that if they were willing to label them as GG and show them, consumers were entitled to my views on the wines. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Rheingau Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Hassel, Reichestal, Berg Schlossberg from Kloster Eberbach, Kaufmann, and Künstler

 

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Alas, less promising wines here than with the Höllenbergs. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Rheingau Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Höllenberg from Allendorf, Kesseler, Kloster Eberbach, and Künstler

 

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Wines from this vineyard have a track record of long ageability. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Rheinhessen Spätburgunder Part II -- Heerkretz, Horn, Kreuz, Pares, from Kühling-Gillot, Neus, Wagner-Stempel

 


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Moving to the northern part of Rheinhessen, less prestigious for Pinot Noir than the Wonnegau in the south, but still producing wines of interest. (Continue reading here.)


der GG Part I -- Brunnenhäuschen, Frauenberg, Kirchenstück, Morstein from Battenfeld-Spanier, Gutzler, Keller

 

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Two winners and two losers. (Continue reading here.)

2020, 2019, 2018 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part IV -- Felsenberg, Im Grossen Garten, Kirschgarten, Mandelpfad, Saumagen, Steinbuckel from Knipser, Kuhn, and Rings

 

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Here we have Kinipser, one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir producers; Rings, who’s still a new kid on the block but rapidly demonstrating that he deserves to be in the top tier; and Philipp Kuhn, who may be just a little bit behind those two but also produces excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)


2020 and 2019 Pfalz Spätburgunder GG Part III -- Idig, Kalkberg, Kastanienbusch Köppel, Munzberg Schlangenpfiff, Rosenkranz - Zinkelberg from Christmann, Minkes, Munzberg/Kessler, Wehrheim

 

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Moving to the central part of the Pfalz, some producers whom I normally like were somewhat disappointing in their 2019 offerings. Perhaps the wines have begun to close? Or perhaps its the character of the vintage here. (Continue reading here.)

2020, 2018, and 2017 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part II -- Kalmit, Sonnenberg, Sonnenschein from Kranz, Rebholz, Siegrist, and Wehrheim

 

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There are some good wines in this set, but not at the overall level of the Schweigen wines or the wines from these producers that I have seen in certain other vintages. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part I -- Heydenreich, Kammerberg, KB,, Kostert, Sankt Paul, Sonnenberg KT, Sonnenberg RG from Becker, Bernhart, and Jülg

  

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Schweigen is on the border with Alsace and these producers have some vines in French territory that is allowed to be labelled as German wine. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Württemberg Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Forstberg, Gips Marienglas, Lämmler, Mönchberg Öde Halde from Aldinger, Beurer, Dautel, Heid, Schnaitmann

 

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Somehow, most of the producers here just don’t make Spätburgunder that speaks to me. Dautel is the major exception. (Continue reading here.)

2020 and 2019 Württemberg Spätburgunder Part I -- Geissberg, Himmelreich, Ruthe, Schlossberg, Schupen from Dautel, Neipperg, Wachstetter, Weinsberg

 

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A mixed bag here. (Continue reading here.)

2020 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part III -- Bassgeige Steinreise, Eichberg, Kirchberg, and Henkenberg from Franz Keller and Salwey


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(Continue reading here.)



 


2020 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part II -- Alte Berg, Kirchgasse, Schlossberg, Sommerhalde from Huber and Wöhrle

 

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(Continue reading here.)





2020 and 2019 Baden Spätburgunder Part I: Bienenberg, Königsbacher, Löchle, Wildenstein from Burg Ravensburg, Heitlinger, and Huber

 

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In the wake of the tragically premature death of Bernhard Huber, his wife and son continue to maintain the estate as one of the two finest for Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) in Germany (along with Rudolf Fürst). (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Franken Riesling GG Part I -- Julius-Echter-Berg,Kammer, Stein-Berg from Bürgerspital, Juliusspital, Staatliche Hofkeller, Wirsching

 


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Moving to the last Riesling region, Franken, the excellence of the vintage continues. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Pfalz Riesling GG's Part X -- Kastienbusch, Kastanienbusch Köppel, Sonnenberg from Bernhart, Jülg, Rebholz, Siegrist, Wehrheim

 


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Finishing off what is an exceptional year for the Pfalz GG’s. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Pfalz Riesling GG Part IX -- Ganz Horn, Hölle -- Unterer Faulenberg, Kalmit, Kirchberg, Im Sonnenschein from Kranz, Minges, Rebholz

 

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Fully into the southern sector of the Pfalz, and the exciting quality of the vintage continues with Rebholz and Minges. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Pfalz Riesling GG Part VIII: Bürgergarten im Breumel, Hölle, Meerspinne, Michelsberg, Schäwer, Vogelsang from Christmann, Messmer, Minges, Müller-Catoir, and Rebholz

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Transitioning from the southern portion of the central Pfalz and into the southern Pfalz, the overall quality remains quite high. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part VII: Gaisböhl, Idig, Ölberg-Hart, Reiterpfad Hofstück, Reiterpfad in der Hohl, from von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, and Christmann


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Moving to the south central district of the Pfalz, the great wines continue. (Continue reading here.) 

2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part VI: Grainhübel, Hohenmorgen, Kalkofen, Kieselberg, Langenmorgen from von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, and Mosbacher

 

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Next, we move to Deidesheim, which is to Riesling in the Pfalz what Chambolle-Musigny is to Pinot Noir in the Côte d’Or, with tender, seductive wines. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part V: Freundstück, Jesuitengarten, Kirchenstück from Acham-Magin, von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Mosbacher

 

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We finish up Forst with Freundstück, a very good vineyard, but surclassed by Jesuitengarten, possibly the second best Riesling vineyard in the Pfalz, and Kirchenstück, the greatest Riesling vineyard in the Pfalz and maybe all of Germany and the world. This is Forst in all its glory. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part III: Ungeheuer from Acham-Magin, von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, and Mosbacher

 

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Now we begin the exploration of Forst, the Pfalz’s equivalent of Vosn-Romanée in Burgundy. All are excellent Ungeheurs, but Mosbacher and von Bassermann-Jordan have made two of the greatest Rieslings of the vintage (or any other). (Continue reading here.)

2021 Pfalz Riesling GG Part II: Annaberg, Herrenberg, Michelsberg, Saumagen, Weilberg from Kuhn, Pfeffingen, Rings, K. Schaefer

 

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This is one of the less-well-known parts of the Pfalz, but these are excellent producers making very fine wines.  (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part I: Kirschgarten, Mandelpfad, Schwarzer Herrgott, Steinbuckel from Knipser and Kuhn

 

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Here we are in the northern part of the Pfalz, essentially the same region as the southern Rheinhessen with only a political boundary separating them. (Continue reading here.)


2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part VIII: Frauenberg, Kirchenstück, and Zellerweg am Scwarzen Hergott from Battenfeld-Spanier

 


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Finishing up the Rheinhessen and about to begin the Pfalz: (Continue reading here.)


2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part VII: Brunnenhäuschen, Morstein, Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück from Gutzler and Wittmann

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Part 2 of Philipp Wittmann’s magnificent wines here. (Continue reading here.)


2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG and an Auction Wine Part VI: Aulerde, Falkenberg, Kirchspiel, Tafelstein from Dr. Becker, K.F. Groebe, and Wittmann

 

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I’ve mentioned breathtaking wines, and indeed there were some in the Nahe, but the Wonnegau begins another dimension. (Continue Reading here.)

KELLER (Flörsheim-Dalsheim): 2021 Auction Wines from Schubertslay and Pettenthal and VON OETHEGRAVEN: 2021 Auction Wine from Altenberg

 

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Auction wines from Klaus-Peter Keller, probably Germany’s most cultish producer: (Continue reading here.)


2021 and 2020 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part V and an Auction Kabinett: Ölberg and Pettenthal from Gunderloch, Kühling Gillot, Rappenhof, St. Antony, and Schätzel

 

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Alas, lots of disappointments with this set. (Continue reading here.)

TESCH (Nahe) -- 2021 Rieslings Tasted from Bottle

 

Frankly, I can’t choose between Martin Tesch’s great 2020s and these great 2021s, notwithstanding the fact that they are two completely different vintages in terms of heat and dryness. Maybe comparing them side-by-side I could express a preference, but either one will provide you with great wine and great value for your money in today’s market.


The Nahe has an incredible set of great producers, many of whom are in the VDP. Tesch was  a member of the VDP, but chose to leave it; were he still there, these wines would rate quite highly in the GG tastings. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part IV: Bruderberg, Hipping, Orbel, Zehnmorgen from Gunderloch, Kühling-Gillot, St. Antony, and Schätzel

 

There are very good wines here, but it’s not one of the star areas of the vintage, and indeed, I probably have a slight preference for 2020 in this region, based on what I’ve tasted. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Rheinhessen GG and and Auction Wine Part III: Fenchelberg, Hundertgulden, Rothenberg, Steinacker from Gunderloch, Knewitz, and Kühling-Gillot

 

We now get into wines that have long been associated with the Rheinhessen, and in particular in the case of Nackenheim, with the famous Roter Hang, named for the red soils. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG and an Auction Wine Part II: Heerkretz and Höllberg from Bischel and Wagner-Stempel

 

As with the previous group of wines, these are from a part of the Rheinhessen that style-wise yields wines of Nahe character, but from within the Rheinhessen political boundary. (Continue reading here.)

2021, 2020, and 2019 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part I: Kirchberg and Scharlachberg from Bischel, Kruger-Rumpf, Salm, and Wagner-Stempel

 

Due to political boundaries of the regions, these wines are Rheinhessen, but based on location and style, should be considered Nahe wines akin to those in my previous post. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Rheingau Riesling GG Part I: Schlenzenberg and Wisselbrunnen from Barth, Diefenhardt, August Eser, Kaufmann, Georg Müller Stiftung, and Josef Spreitzer

 

In contrast to the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, where all the GG’s shown were 2021, an increasing number of Rheingau producers are holding their wines back for an extra year of aging, and so many of the new-release GG’s are from 2020. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Mosel Riesling GG Part VII: Kirchberg, Röttgen, Stolzenberg, Uhlen, Uhlen Blaufüsser Lay, Uhlen Laubach, Uhlen Roth Lay from Heymann-Löwenstein and Knebel


From the end of the Mosel, just before it empties into the Rhine, some unexpected unevenness in these wines. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Mosel Riesling GG Part II: Domherr, Goldtröpfchen, and Schubertslay from Grans-Fassian, von Kesselstatt, Schloss Lieser-Thomas Haag, Vereinigte Hospiten, and Nik Weis-St Urbanshof

 

The uniform quality continues with the Piesport wines. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Mosel Riesling GG Part I: Apotheke, Hofberg, Laurnetiuslay, Layet from Grans-Fassian and Nik Weis-St Urbanshof

 

Here we begin the journey down the Mosel River with good offerings from two outstanding producers. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Ruwer (Mosel) Riesling GG: Abtsberg, Bruderberg, Herrenberg, and Karthäuserhofberg from Maximin Grünhaus/von Schubert and Karthäuserhof

 Von Schubert has great 2021s, and Karthäuserhof’s outstanding 2020 sets the table for its 2021 to be released next year. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Saar (Mosel) Riesling GG Part III: Gottesfuss, Rausch, Scharzhofberger, and Volz from Vereinigte Hospiten, Van Volxem, and Zilliken/Forstmeister Geltz

 This is the last batch of the great 2021 Saar GG’s for now, but surely more will be shown next year. (Continue reading here.)

2021 Saar (Mosel) Riesling GG Part II: Altenberg, Bockstein,Saarsfeiler from von Hövel, van Volxem, Vereinigte Hospiten, and Nik Weis-St Urbanshof

 

As with the previous group, the strength of Saar wines is apparent, but also inexplicable disappointment. (Continue reading here.)

2021 and 2020 Franken Silvaner GG Part II: Am Lumpen 1655, Hohenroth, Pfülben, and Ratsherr from Müller, Horst Sauer, Rainer Sauer, Schmitt's Kinder, Störrlein Krenig

 

More wines from Franken, where Silvaner can achieve a quality unmatched anywhere else in the world. (Continue reading here.)


2021 and 2020 Franken Silvaner GG Part I: Fürstlicher Kalmuth, Höheleite, Julius-Echter-Berg, Stein-Berg, Stein-Harfe from Bürgerspital, Juliusspital, Löwenstein, Ruck, Staatliche Hofkeller, Weltner, and Wirsching

 

Before we get to the Rieslings, I’ll start with Silvaner GG’s that were presented at the Wiesbaden tasting. Here, too, the 2021 vintage was very successful, as was the 2020 vintage. (Continue reading here.)

Introduction to German Grosses Gewächs Wines of the Great 2021 Vintage and Other Recent Vintages

For the prior three days, I have been tasting Grosses Gewächs wines at the annual preview put on by the VDP, the group composed of many of the most elite wine estates in Germany; the wines will be released to the public on September 1.  This was the 21st annual tasting of the wines, and I am privileged to have attended 19 of them (because of COVID restrictions, I could not enter Germany in 2020 and there was another tasting that I missed in the early 2000s). (Continue reading here.)

White Loire Wines Recently Tasted -- Brégeon/Lailler, Colin, Delaporte, Janvier, Pépière, Perraud, Perrières, Pichon

2020 Muscadets continue to impress at all price levels -- fortunately because 2021 was largely wiped out in the region. Other 2020 Loire whites seem to be less consistent. (Continue reading here.)