Two of Germany’s great producers face off in a great vintage. What more could one want?
EMRICH-SCHÖNLEBER
2021 (Monzingen) Auf der Lay Riesling GG (auction wine)
Pure, intense, direct, penetrating, nobly austere for the moment. 95/A+
2021 (Monzingen) Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling GG
A bit heavier than Schäfer-Fröhlich’s Frühlingsplätzchen, some peach flavor, roundness, depth. 93+/A
2021 (Monzingen) Halenberg Riesling GG
Pure, light, concentrated, but still quite closed. 94/A
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH
As shown with these wines and others that will be in coming reviews, Tim Fröhlich has some of the greatest wines of this great vintage.
2021 (Bockenau) Felseneck Riesling GG
Dense, powerful yet elegant, great depth, concentration, white peach aromas and flavors. 96/A+
2021 (Bockenau) Final Riesling trocken (auction wine)
“Final" is from a parcel in Schäfer-Fröhlich’s Felseneck vineyard where the vines are about sixty years-old. There are roughly three hundred bottles of this wine. Bottled shortlly before I tasted it, the wine has spicy Riesling fruit and is dry, pure, and lively. 94/A
2021 (Monzingen) Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling GG
Floral, mineral nose. Light, pure, dancing, penetrating, precise. 96/A+
2021 (Monzingen) Halenberg Riesling GG
Powdered, perfumed nose, very floral. Apricot and nectarine fruit, precise, pure, medium-weight, elegant, long. 96/A+
2021 (Bockenau) Stromberg Riesling GG
Less open than the Felseneck, there is plenty of material here, but for now the wine is not terribly expressive, just showing some white peach. 93+/A
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