Frankly, I can’t choose between Martin Tesch’s great 2020s and these great 2021s, notwithstanding the fact that they are two completely different vintages in terms of heat and dryness. Maybe comparing them side-by-side I could express a preference, but either one will provide you with great wine and great value for your money in today’s market.
The Nahe has an incredible set of great producers, many of whom are in the VDP. Tesch was a member of the VDP, but chose to leave it; were he still there, these wines would rate quite highly in the GG tastings.
2021 Riesling (trocken) Unplugged® (black capsule)
This is Tesch’s “entry level” Riesling, but a very serious one it is. The wine has floral aromas and flavors and is light on the palate with lime minerality, salinity, and a dancing, enlivening acid attack. It is perhaps the driest of the set — deliberately as it is intended to be drunk on release, the others beginning a few years after release and so have a bit more residual sugar. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 22. 93/A
2021 (Langenlonsheimer) Löhrer Berg Riesling (trocken) (green capsule)
As with previous vintages, this is a rounder, more relaxed wine than the Unplugged, and as such, it will appeal more to some, while others, including me, will prefer the nervier Unplugged, at least while young. The wine features mineral and white flower aromas. The mouth is medium-light with the afore-stated roundness but also with a firm, sensual texture that includes a juicy/chewiness, and minerality. It needs some time to fully open. Screw cap closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 22. 93/A
2021 (Laubenheimer) Krone Riesling (trocken) (yellow capsule)
From a vineyard adjacent to Löhrer Berg and on loss and limestone soils, this wine is medium-light with a pronounced but fine acidity and well-defined, flowery lime blossom aromas and flavors. It needs some time to fully open. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 22. 93+/A
2021 (Langenlonsheimer) Königsschild Riesling (trocken) (blue capsule)
Königsschild is my perennial favorite of Tesch’s wines. This is pure, focused, precise wine with depth and lime minerality. It is medium-weight with good concentration and acidity that is present but well-integrated and not dominant. Limestone soils with seashell under loess. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 22. 95/A+
2021 (Laubenheimer) Karthäuser Riesling (trocken) (red capsule)
The Karthäuser is richer than the foregoing with an almost chewy texture and medium-weight body. The wine is less floral and citric than the foregoing wines and more closed, but with excellent acidity. There is a spiciness that sets the wine apart from the others and iron aspects, but still needs time to open. Screw cap closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 22. 93+/A
2021 (Laubenheimer) Remigiusberg Riesling (trocken) (orange capsule)
The Remigiusberg is the smallest of Tesch’s vineyards. Although not as rich as the Karthäuser, this wine is richer than the other wines, and yet there is a noble austerity to the texture. The wine is mineral and penetrating with plenty of tension, energy, and depth. There’s a slight earthy overtone to the mineral, citric fruit that distinguishes the wine. The wine also has an excellent acidic attack. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 22. 93+/A