As I’ve pointed out previously, a transition is currently taking place at Ridge, where in March 2021 it was announced that John Olney was taking over as head winemaker and chief operating officer. The wines released since then seem less rustic and better balanced than some recent Ridge wines had been.
2021 Grenache Blanc Paso Robles Adelaida Vineyard
Grenache Blanc is a varietal that gets little respect, both in France and in the US, but I must confess that I’ve always found many wines from this grape that appeal to me. This one is no exception with an interesting combination of quince fruit and minerality in a medium-light body and supported by an enlivening acidity. It makes for an excellent match with cheese, pork, poultry, fish, and a number of vegetarian dishes. 90% Grenache Blanc, 6% Roussanne, 4% Picpoul. Cork closure. 13.8% stated alcohol. 90/A
2020 Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Pagani Ranch
Ridge has been making the Pagani Ranch Zinfandel for twenty years, and this is easily the best one I can recall. Recalling the “claret-style” Zinfandels of the 1970s, this wine has elegance and balance to its somewhat spicy dark fruits. The oak, which in some vintages can be intrusive, is well-integrated here, and the wine is medium-weight with round tannins. It drinks very well already; the winemaker’s notes on the back label suggest development over the next eight years, which sounds reasonable. 90% Zinfandel, 6% Petite Sirah, 4% Alicante Bouschet. Cork closure. 13.8% stated alcohol. 92/A
2020 Zinfandel Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley
After Monte Bello and Geyserville, the Lytton Springs Zinfandel arguably is Ridge’s most iconic wine. Lytton Springs has always yielded quite ripe Zinfandel, so the 14.6% stated alcohol is not excessive for the site, and in fact the alcohol is well-integrated. The wine has typical spicy, mineral dark berry fruit, no dominating oak, a medium-full body, and round tannins. It should provide good drinking for the next 8-10+ years. 79% Zinfandel, 11% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignane. Cork closure. 14.6% stated alcohol. 92/A
2019 Petite Sirah Lytton Estate Dry Creek Valley
If you want some amazing old wines, track down some old California Petite Sirah. Notwithstanding their age, they’re unlikely to be expensive, and therefore very good gambles. You see, back more than forty years ago, Petite Sirah was thought to be Syrah. But the wines were nearly undrinkable young. And then it was discovered that what was being sold as Petite Sirah was mostly Durif, a blending grape used in the south of France. The market for Petite Sirah largely died about then, although fortunately there were some who continued to persevere with the grape — perhaps encouraged by what happened to those once-undrinkable Petite Sirahs after 10-15 years in the bottle. This Ridge Lytton Estate Petite Sirah has some tannins, but the fruitiness is so intense — plenty of dark plums — that you can drink the wine already if you have some tannin tolerance. Otherwise, wait 5-10 years, but in any case, you’ll be acquiring a topflight wine with medium-weight, a smooth texture, and, as indicated above, intense dark plum fruits. Cork closure, 100% Petite Sirah. 14.3% stated alcohol. 92/A
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