2020 Muscadets continue to impress at all price levels -- fortunately because 2021 was largely wiped out in the region. Other 2020 Loire whites seem to be less consistent.
Domaine Michel BRÉGEON/Frédéric LAILLER
2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Unlike the overwhelming majority of Muscadet, this is not a wine constructed for immediate enjoyment. Instead, it is intense, deep, and tightly-wound with great energy. Light in body and showing sea salt aromas and flavors, this could turn into something astounding with half a dozen years on the bottle. Meantime, should you want to serve it now, I’d suggest decanting well in advance. Certified organic. Cork closure. 11% stated alcohol. Lot L.01.20. 90+/A
Vignoble COLIN
Formerly known as Domaine Patrice Colin, I’ve been positive on this estate for some time and it is now beginning to receive the recognition that it deserves.
2021 vin de France Sec Thoré la Rochette
This wine is from Chenin Blanc on limestone soils in Colin’s hometown of Thoré la Rochette, but apparently outside the local appellation of Coteaux Vendômois. The vines are young (no exact age given). The wine is dry with some grip and good salinity. Perfect for shellfish and goat cheese. Certified organic. DIAM 5 closure. 12% stated alcohol. 88/A
Matthieu DELAPORTE
2020 Sancerre Silex
This is a dense, powerful Sancerre, full-bodied and loaded with chalkiness to go with its white fruits. It’s not a wine to drink now, but rather one to age 5-8 years minimum. DIAM 10 closure. 13% stated alcohol. 90+/B+
Pascal JANVIER
2020 Jasnières
At the moment, this wine is quite disjointed, showing a light but rich texture and somewhat unfocused beeswax and honey elements with good acidic support. As the wine warms, it shows a touch of sweetness which, I suspect, is due to the high alcohol. I wouldn’t rule out the possibility that this wine shows well after some time in the cellar, but for now, it’s not impressive to me. Composition cork closure with cork at both ends. 14% stated alcohol. Lot L 17. 85(+?)/C
Domaine de la PÉPIÈRE
2021 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie
Pépière’s normal bottling is crisp and mineral with light lemony aromas and flavors, lacking just a little bit of the depth of the great 2020. Alas, the production is microscopic. Certified organic and biodynamic. DIAM closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L121B. 89/A-
Vincent et Stéphane PERRAUD
2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sans Filtre Mais à Servir Frais
Vincent and Stéphane Perraud run the Domaine des Cognettes in the Muscadet region, and the cork here is stamped Domaine des Cognettes, but the label only indicates Perraud as the producer (the are the principals of Domaine des Cognettes). Moreover, the back label indicates that this is a bottling for the wine retailer Moots. The main label states nothing about the wine and says simply “Sans Filtre mais servir à frais” (no filtration, but serve cool). The wine is round with slightly candied lemon fruit and sufficient acidity, but not the grip or penetration of a still better wine.s Certified organic. Closure: cork on ends, agglomerate in the middle. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L 20-M01.87/B
Domaine des PERRIÈRES
2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur Lie vieilles vignes
Sea salt aromas and flavors with rainwater clarity in the mouth and good acidic support. This wine is another of the super-bargain Muscadets of the 2020 vintage. Synthetic closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L2504223556811:19. 89/A-
Claude-Michel PICHON
2020 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur Lie Les Pierres Bleues
Light, crisp, mineral, and saline with pristine clarity, this is an outstanding example of what Muscadet should be. Synthetic closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L22062. 90/A