Domaine FAIVELEY/Maison Joseph FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2016 Part II -- Côte de Nuits Premiers Crus Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published December 2017)

Erwan Faiveley said that harvesting began in late September, sometime around the 22nd. There is a little bit of whole cluster in the Chaignots, more in all the Chambolles, and none in the Gevreys. Alcohols are all 13.5º or below, and except for two cuvées, there was no chaptalization at the estate.

Malolactic fermentations were considerably later than usual because of the cold cellars, and so bottling will accordingly be retarded. Prices should remain the same as for the 2015s (presumably this is in euros, so they may change as local currencies fluctuate).

All wines below except for the Amoureuses are Domaine Faiveley. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2016 Part I: Côte Chalonnaise Tasted from Bottle and Barrel Samples

(Originally published December 2017)

Erwan Faiveley said that harvesting on the Côte Chalonnaise began about 22 September. 

The wines provide outstanding potential. The word in the Côte d’Or is that the wines of the Côte Chalonnaise are moving up in quality (ils bougent), and that includes Faiveley, where the quality has always been high. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published December 2017)

Losses here were heavy in parts of Gevrey-Chambertin, not to mention the Côte de Beaune holdings. Losses were not only due to the frost, but also the following mildew, which seems to have posed a special challenge to many biodynamic estates such as this one in 2016.

At harvest, there was a little triage, but most of the grapes were healthy. There was just a little chaptalization — to extend fermentation time. As in 2015 and 2017, here was no pigeage (punching down). About 25-30% whole clusters were included in the wines. Malolactic fermentations here were very early, finished by Christmas 2016. Overall, the wines seemed lighter in extraction and more elegant than in some other vintages here presumably a result of the lack of pigeage.

The lesser appellations should be bottled around Christmas this year; for the remainder, bottling should take place from February through the end of May 2018. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published December 2017)

Jean-Louis Trapet said that the frost affected the wines in Chambertin and Marsannay, but not really the other appellations. With the rain at the beginning of the season, the vineyards had to be worked manually. Additionally, there was mildew that weakened the vines. As a result, the first half of the season was quite difficult. However, with the favorable second half of the year, things went differently, and once again this estate has come up with some of the most brilliant wines in Burgundy.

Harvesting began around 27-28 September, and a significant triage of the grapes was necessary. Fermentations included some whole clusters, and there was very little chaptalization — only enough to prolong fermentations. Malolactic fermentations were late here, as is usually the case. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel and a 2015 and 2014 Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published December 2017)

Gregory Gouges reported that production overall in 2016 was 16 hl/ha, roughly half of what the estate aims for each year. The vineyards south of Nuits suffered the most. The two flagship vineyards, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges, yielded but 10 and 11 hl/ha, respectively. The wine from two vineyards, Chaignots (50% of a normal crop) and Chênes Carteaux (10% of a normal crop) was declassified into the village Nuits in order to keep the village wine quantity sufficient (it is necessary to insure a sufficient quantity of village wine for commercial reasons, such as supply to restaurants).

There was a little mildew, but the estate continued to work without chemical treatments, and in the end, only about 2-3% was lost to mildew.

Harvest took place between 3 and 7 October, finishing before the rain. There was almost no triage — the harvesters were instructed not to take bunches that were not good, and in the end, only about 2-3% was eliminated. The estate uses chaptalization only in years where there is insufficient maturity or there is some dilution due to large yield, neither of which was the case in 2016. Pigeage and remontage (punching down and pumping over) were like normal, but fermentation temperatures were a little lower than usual because of the lower masses. As usual here, whole clusters were not used.

Malolactic fermentations began in December; the reds finished in June, but the whites were later — finishing just a little before my visit at the end of October.

Bottling will probably begin in early 2018. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Georges NOËLLAT/Maison Maxime CHEURLIN-NOËLLAT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published December 2017)

Maxime Cheurlin said that losses overall were 40% from a full harvest. There was little triage, but many passes in the vineyards that froze were required. 

All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were late, and indeed, some still had not finished when I visited on 31 October; I tasted those near the end of their malos, but others I did not. Additionally, four appellations were not made in 2016 because of damage from the frost.(Continue reading here.)

Domaine Emmanuel ROUGET (Flagey-Echézeaux) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published December 2017)

Overall, Emmanuel Rouget said, he only has 20% of a normal crop, although the Cros Parantoux and Beaumonts vineyards did escape the frost.

Harvesting began on 1 October. There was very little triage, and as usual here, all grapes were destemmed. There was no chaptalization and alcohols are almost the same as in 2015.

Malolactic fermentations are a little on the late side — the Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains had not even started when I visited on the last day of October, and the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits was still in full malo. (It’s not unusual for Rouget to still have wines in malo when I visit in October-November.)

Bottling will take place in July, as usual.

As usual, this is an excellent set of wines. Emmanuel says that the acidity of the vintage gives the wines energy and finesse. (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2016 Part III: Whites Tasted from Tank

(Originally published December 2017)

Marchand-Tawse is known best for its red wines, which are produced in much greater number than the whites. But the wines below demonstrate that the whites are also worthy of attention, and the amply demonstrate the favorable aspects of the vintage’s whites. (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2016 Pat II: Red Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel and Tank

(Originally published December 2017)

The Marchand-Tawse grands crus, like the lower appellations, are very good examples of their respective appellations, but there’s not a lot of any one wine. (Continue reading here.)

Maison MARCHAND-TAWSE (Nuits-St-Georges) -- 2016 Part I: Côte de Nuits Regional, Village, and Premier Cru Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published December 2017)

This negociant operation founded by Pascal Marchand and Moray Tawse, has put together an excellent selection of Côte de Nuits wines. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- Part II: Whites Tasted from Tank

(Originally published December 2017)

As with the Marchand-Tawse wines, there are fewer appellations in white than in red for Domaine Tawse, but that does not diminish the quality at all. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine TAWSE (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2016 Part I: Reds Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published December 2017)

These are Tawse’s own vineyards and treated biodynamically. There’s plenty to like here in quality, but quantities, as with so much of Burgundy in 2016, are often distressingly low. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine DUJAC (Morey-St-Denis) -- 2016 Part III: Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

I’ve mentioned previously that in 2015, one sees the vintage’s strength in the quality of the lesser appellations; the wines from the grands crus can be truly outstanding, but with a small number of exceptions, the grands crus hit ceilings that are below their maximum potential. In 2016, although there are very good wines from top producers from lesser appellations, it is with the top appellations that one sees the vintage at its most impressive. And that is certainly the case with Dujac, where the vintage has been most successful. These wines are all in the top group for their respective appellations, and the more one continues through the list, the greater the wines get and the fewer the challengers for top wine of the appellation. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine DUJAC and DUJAC Fils & Père (Morey-St-Denis) -- 2016 Part II: Premier Cru Reds Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

There’s quite a good selection here, and quality goes from good for premier cru to what would be more than good for grand cru. Alas, the Chambolle-Gruenchers, habitually one of my favorite wines at this estate, was declassified into the village Chambolle due to minute quantity, as I previously reported. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine DUJAC and DUJAC Fils & Père (Morey-St-Denis) 2016 Part I: Village Reds Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Harvesting for the reds began on 27 September.

The Dujac Père & Fils wines have continued to improve, and as you see here, I put them on the same level as their peers for domaine village wines, quite an accomplishment.  (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Louis BOILLOT et Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Part II: Côte de Nuits Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Background on the harvest at Boillot is here.

This remarkable selection of wines shows wines potentially at the level of the an appellation above; that is, the Bourgogne at the level of a good village wine, the village wines at the level of good premiers crus, and the premiers crus at the level of grands crus. With high prices due to low stocks and high demand for Burgundy, it is wines such as this that most Burgundy fans need to focus on. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Louis BOILLOT et Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Part I: Côte de Beaune Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Louis Boillot has much of his vineyards located in the areas most affected by the frost — especially village Volnay, Pommard, and Beaune; Nuits-Pruliers; Gevrey-Chambertin; Volnay-Champans; and Volnay-Caillerets with overall losses of 70-80% from a normal vintage. The wine that was made is worthy of your serious interest.

Harvesting began around 19 or 20 September. As always, grapes were entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were early, with many finishing by Christmas, others in March. 

Louis is looking to March and April 2018 for bottling.

All these wines are of very good quality, but pay attention to the village wines, which are almost at the same level as the premiers crus. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Ghislaine BARTHOD (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Harvesting here began on 24 September. What little there was from the Combottes and Châtelots vineyards was declassified to the village Chambolle. For the rest, the harvest is down 50-60% from a normal vintage. 

As usual, all grapes were destemmed. There was no chaptalization here, with the grapes being picked at 12.5-13.3º natural alcohol. Malolactic fermentations finished in March and April.  (Continue reading here.)

Domaine François LAMARCHE (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published January 2018)

Harvesting began on 26 September. Overall losses were half of a normal crop. Each cuvée contains 30% whole clusters. No new oak was used so that the vintage can be seen as it is, explained Nathalie Lamarche; it is a spiritual vintage for expression of Pinot Noir, and so this is what the estate wishes to emphasize. Malolactic fermentations were rather late here. 

These wines were served from barrel samples at room temperature. I’m used to tasting (and drinking) Burgundy at cellar temperature, so the warmth of the wines added an additional challenge to their evaluation. (Continue reading here.)

G. ROUMIER and Christophe ROUMIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published November 2017)

Christophe Roumier said that production was the lowest for the estate since 1971, down about 55% from a normal yield. No Bourgogne, Chambolle-Combottes, or Corton-Charlemagne was produced in 2016. He says that he never saw as strong a freeze as in 2016, not even in 1981.

Christophe said that where the vines froze, he feels more concentration in the wine. There was less new wood than usual, but whole clusters were employed, as indicated below. Where the vines froze, there was a smaller proportion of whole clusters than normal because of the very small grapes. In general, whole clusters comprised 30-35% for the village and premier cru wines, 55-60% for the grands crus. 

As I’ve previously mentioned, Christophe has an investor who has purchased about half an hectare of Bonnes-Mares (mostly white soils), bringing the total exploited up to 1.89ha. Additionally, there is is some Échézeaux (0.1311ha) that in the En Orveaux lieu-dit that will begin to be commercialized in 2017 (production in 2016 was too small to permit commercial distribution), and, finally, the sharecropper agreement that had underlain the Charmes-Chambertin has been superseded beginning with 2018, with Christophe getting the full production of the vineyard. The total surface area now exploited is 12.43 hectares. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine MÉO-CAMUZET and MÉO-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Tank and Barrel Samples

(Originally published January 2018)

Jean-Nicolas Méo said that for Vosne-Romanée vineyards, the yields were fairly normal; for Clos-de-Vougeot, they were about 70-75% normal; and for the négociant wines, they were about 2/3 of normal, although for Chambolle-Musigny, that figure was only 1/3.

Harvesting generally began on 26 September, although a little was taken in on the 24th. Not much sorting was necessary. No chaptalization was done, and yet alcohols are just a little above those of 2015. Malolactic fermentations finished in March, April, and May, which is rather normal. Jean-Nicolas noted that lab analyses of the pHs show higher that he thought — most are around 3.5, although a few are around 3.7.

Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are négociant wines under the Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs label. (Continue reading here.)

Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted from 2013, 2014, and 2015: Entrefaux/Tardy, Faurie, Faury, Gonon, Graillot, Levet, Marsanne, Paillard/Vigne des Pères, Perret, St-Clair/Basset, Souillard

(Originally published June 2017)

Conventional wisdom is that 2014 is a problem vintage and 2015 is a great vintage in the region. As usual, conventional wisdom misses the true story.

There’s plenty of good 2014 around, although one wants to be careful, as always, in choosing producers. As for 2015, it has a rich style with moderate acidity, but with the wrong producers, those factors can get out of hand and the wines can become unbalanced.

All wines below are red, except as specifically noted otherwise. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Georges MUGNERET-GIBOURG (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Harvesting here began 24 September. All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were “classic”— finishing in spring and the wines were racked in June. 

As with the majority estates that I visited, there was at least one wine that will not be made or commercialized in 2016; here, it was the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Les Feusselottes. But what wine was made in the other appellations is, as usual, worthy of the most serous attention. (Continue reading here.)

Hubert et Laurent LIGNIER (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2016 Part II: Premiers and Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Vintage conditions are described here. (Continue reading here.) 

Hubert et Laurent LIGNIER (Morey-St-Denis) -- 2016 Part I: Regional and Village Wines Tasted from Bottle and Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Laurent Lignier said that he lost quite a bit of crop in the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Bourgogne, Bourgne-Aligoté, Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains, and Pommard appellations. But the Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin appellations were rather normal in yield, and indeed a bit above 2014.

2016 was the first vintage of conversion to organic viticulture and that gave problems with the mildew, mostly in the vineyards lower down from the slopes. 

Harvesting began on 28 September. There was no chaptalization. Whole clusters were used for some wines. With the cold cellar here, malolactic fermentations tended to be rather late — they finished between April and September, with most finishing in June and July. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2016 Part V: Red Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

This sampling of the Drouhin grands crus indicates excellent wines for those who can find and afford them. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2016 Part IV: Côte de Nuits Village and Premier Cru Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

Drouhin has put together here an attractive set of reds that should drink well young, yet also have the capacity for at least medium-term aging. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2016 Part III: Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Bottle and Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

In the areas hit by frost, although later generation grapes largely did catch up to the first generation grapes, substantial triage nevertheless was necessary to eliminate those grapes that did were not fully ripe. Drouhin uses whole clusters in vintages it feels are appropriate, but here, in order to preserve the fresh and fruity quality of the wines, grapes were either mostly or entirely destemmed.

Of particular note, also, is that year-in and year-out, Drouhin provides outstanding wine and great value for the lesser appellations. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) 2016 Part II: Premier Cru and Grand Cru Côte de Beaune Whites Tasted from Bottle and Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

These high-end whites are typical of what I found in my visits for 2016: fresh wines often with good energy that are typical of their terroirs. (Continue reading here.)

Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2016 Part I: Chablis, Côte Chalonnaise, and village Côte de Beaune whites Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published February 2018)

Harvest dates are given below for each wine. All grapes were destemmed.  Many of Drouhin’s whites started malolactic fermentation in the autumn before the weather turned cold. 

In Chablis, Drouhin’s 2016 yield was less than half a crop. All the damage was due to the frost; the hail on 13 May did not affect Drouhin’s wines. What remained on the vines made for very good wines, though.

These Chablis wines go under the name Drouhin-Vaudon, the Domaine de Vaudon being Drouhin’s initial purchase in the region, many years ago.

The Vaudéir and Clos were raised in oak, the others in stainless steel. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2016 Part III: Whites Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

The malolactics for the white wines here generally finished over the winter of 2016-17. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2016 Part II: Red Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

Prieur’s grand cru holdings are among the most enviable in the Côte d’Or. Not just these reds, but also Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, and Corton-Charlemagne (as well as Meursault-Perrières and Puligny-Combettes) in white, which I’ll review in my next post. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jacques PRIEUR (Meursault) -- 2016 Part I: Côte de Beaune Red Premiers Crus Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published February 2018)

Like most producers on the Côte de Beaune, the frost sharply cut back production for many of the vineyards, as discussed below. (Continue reading here.)

Northern Rhônes from 2014, 2015, 2016: Faury, Ferraton, François, Gerin, Gripa, Habrard, Jamet, Monier-Perréol, Paris, Robert/Dom. du Tunnel, St-Désirat, Tardy, Villard

(Originally published February 2018)

All wines are red except as otherwise stated. (Continue reading here.)

Recently Tasted Northern Rhônes from 2014, 2015, and 2016: Les 4 Vents/Cellier, Balthazar, Belle, Burgaud, Clape, Curtat, Darnaud, Durand

(Originally published February 2018)

All wines below are red unless otherwise indicated. 

2015 and 2016 both are looking like spectacular vintages with more power to the 2015s, a little more freshness to the 2016s, to make a gross generalization; and the 2014s from the proper addresses are not to be snubbed, either. But as always, be aware that your producer is your best guide. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2016 Taste from Tank and Barrel

(Originally published February 2018)

Thomas Bouley said that overall, he lacked about 70% of a normal crop, making it the smallest vintage since 2012. Harvesting began on 20 September with the reds; the only white was the Aligoté, which is always the last wine harvested here. No red Bourgogne or Beaune 1er Cru Reversées was produced in 2016.

Under the difficult conditions, successful wines were made, and I look forward to tasting the 2017s. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine David DUBAND/François FEUILLET (Chavigny) 2016 Part II -- Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 21 February 2018)

Background information on the vintage at Duband is located here.

As I mentioned in the previous post, these wines may be sold under either the David Duband or the François Feuillet label. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine David DUBAND/François FEUILLET (Chavigny) -- 2016 Part I: Regional, Village, and Premiers Crus Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 23 February 2018)

David Duband said that overall, he lost about 40% of a normal production in 2016; Morey was ok, there were some losses in Gevrey, and heavy losses in Nuits and Chambolle.

Harvesting began on 25 September. There was no triage. Generally, the wines in Chambolle were composed 80% of whole clusters, for Gevrey it was 95-100%. Malolactic fermentations finished over the winter. New oak is 30% for the Hautes Côtes de Nuits and village wines, 40% for the premiers and grands crus.

These wines are in a style of great finesse — some may find them too light, but I appreciate them for their purity and overall harmony.

You may also find some of these wines under the François Feuillet label; Feuillet is a financial backer of Duband. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine David DUBAND/François FEUILLET (Chavigny) -- 2015 Burgundies Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 21 February 2018)

David Duband characterized the amount of production in 2015 as “rather good.” 

As with the 2016s discussed in the prior posts, these are very elegant wines, stressing the finesse more than most and light on the palate. They they may not be to the taste of all. 

The estate has been certified organic since 2006.

As mentioned previously, the same wines may also be found under the François Feuillet label. (Continue reading here.)

Château de PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Puligny-Montrachet) -- 2016 Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples

(Originally published 23 February 2018)

Although a separate label, everything here is operated under Etienne de Montille and his team.

Harvesting began on 17 September. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) 2016 Part III -- Côte de Beaune Whites Tasted from Barrel and Tank Sample

(Originally published 27 February 2018)

Information on vintage conditions is here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) 2016 Part II -- Côte de Nuits Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published 27 February 2018)

Information on vintage conditions is here.

This is a small, but impressive, collection of wines. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de MONTILLE (Meursault) 2016 Part I -- Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Barrel Samples

(Originally published 26 February 2018)

Harvesting for de Montille and associated Château de Puligny-Montrachet began on 17 September. There was light chaptalization for a couple of cuvées, otherwise none, and no acidification.

The vintage required 13 treatments for mildew and oïdium vs. 8 in 2017.

Overall, the estate was down 20% from a full harvest, but some areas such as Pommard and Beaune, suffered much more seriously. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine FOLLIN-ARBELET (Aloxe-Corton) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel and A Pair of 2015s Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published 4 March 2018)

Franck Follin-Arbelet said that losses from the frost meant that he did only about 30-35% of a full harvest. The harvesting began on 22 September. There was no red Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru in 2016, and the Aloxe-Corton and  Aloxe-Vercots also suffered badly. However,  following on the frost, there were no problems with mildew, and as a result, there was no need to do a triage. Whole clusters were used in about 10-20%, he said, but more for volume than anything else. 

Malolactic fermentations were late, many finishing in spring, but others dragged on until September.

As usual, there is very good quality here, and the best values probably come from the premier cru wines. The wines show the freshness of the vintage, a contrast to the 2015s where it is the power and ripeness that dominate. (Continue reading here.)

BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples and from Bottle Part III -- Whites

(Originally published 11 March 2018)

Bouchard generally harvested the Chardonnays after the Pinot Noirs in 2016. More on vintage conditions is located here. 

Malolactic fermentations generally were a little later than usual because the cold winter of 2016-17 cooled the cellar. As a rule, they began between January and March and finished in mid-June. Barrels were rolled (bâtonnage) two or three times.

As with other top white producers, the wines are very good here and worthy of your interest. (Continue reading here.)

BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel Samples Part II: Côte de Nuits Reds

(Originally published 9 March 2018)

Details on the vintage are here. (Continue reading here.)

BOUCHARD Père & Fils (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples Part I: Côte de Beaune Reds

(Originally published 19 March 2018)

Harvesting began on 21 September; it finished, on the Côte de Nuits, on 6 October. The grapes were in excellent health, but triage was needed nonetheless to eliminate those second and third generation grapes that had not fully ripened. Overall, crop was 50% off a full vintage, the smallest since 2003; in addition to the frost, mildew seriously held down the crop, and in some areas vines were blocked by the drought in the second half of the summer. 

Vinification varied according to the level of yields. Where there were low yield vines and concentrated grape bunches, maceration was eight to ten days and the crush was moderated to limit extraction. Where yields were normal and bunches larger, the maceration was ten to thirteen days. There was no pigeage (punching down).

For the red wines, malolactic fermentations generally were early.

Beginning with the 2016 vintage, Bouchard will have a new label. Instead of the current label, which is quite individual and therefore easily identifiable at a distance, the new one is understated and almost generic in appearance. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Denis MORTET/Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel Part II: Grand Crus

(Originally published 1 April 2016)

There has been an amazing expansion of grand cru offerings here — no longer just the Chambertin and the Clos de Vougeot, there are now at least seen different wines (although the Echézeaux won’t be commercialized in 2016 because production was so low; it is from the same parcel that Christophe Roumier now is making wine from). (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Denis MORTET/Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel Part I: Regional, Village, and Premier Cru Wines

(Originally published 1 April 2018)

Arnaud Mortet said that he began harvest on 23 September. Over the summer, he did some green harvesting in order to homogenize the maturity of the grapes. Overall, the maturity was very good, with the grapes coming in at 12.5-13.5º natural alcohol. There was a very small bit of chaptalization. Arnaud noted that the tannins were of hight quality.

Overall, the estate lost 45% from a full harvest. The vineyards most seriously affected were the premiers and grands crus. 

Arnaud said that he used a fair amount of whole clusters in the wines (e.g., 30% in the grands crus) in contrast to 2017, where he used little due to the lower acidities of the wines. 

Malolactic fermentations generally finished in June and July, not terribly late for this cellar which is quite cold.(Continue tasting here.)

Domaine Denis MORTET/Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2015s Tasted from Bottle

(Originally posted 1 April 2018)

These and other 2015s from Mortet are reviewed from cask here. The quality of the wines is uniformly excellent. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Denis MORTET/Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin): 2015 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published 25 May 2017)

Arnaud Mortet said that he began harvesting on 3 September. He was one of the lucky ones, with overall yield of about 40 hl/ha. (2016 will be much lower because Mortet has significant holdings in areas that were hit by the 27 April 2016.) Arnaud said that he had no problem with the drought over the summer, a prime cause of low yields at other estates, because he works the soil very deep, encouraging the wines to go down, and then stopped working the soil early. Maturities were the highest ever for the estate with potential alcohols in the range of 12.5-13.6/7º. He used a fair amount of whole clusters in the vinification. Malolactic fermentations finished between March and June, which is not late for this estate.

The trend here to less use of whole clusters and less new oak continues, adding freshness and elegance to the wines.

Mortet fans will be happy that the number of offerings has increased in significant ways with new premiers and grands crus in recent years, but those mindful of price will still find good village wines at lower prices.

I found these wines less easy to judge than usual, and it is possible that they are underrated here. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Tempier (2017 Migoua and Cabassaou barrel samples, 2014) and Domaine de la Laidière (2014 and 2015 Bandol)

In 2016, Tempier purchased Domaine de la Laidière, a 20-ha estate. Lucien Peyraud, one of the pioneers of the appellation, had always considered the estate excellent. Daniel Ravier, who now is in charge of running the Tempier estate, had begun working with Laidière a few years prior to the purchase. 

Laidière had been know in particular for its white and rosé wines, an indication of the fresher terroirs of its vines, important given global warming. 2018 will be the first vintage that the grapes enter into Domaine Tempier’s wines. But I tasted the reds from 2014 and 2015 (Tempier purchased the existing stocks and so now is marketing them) and also was able to taste the 2014 Tempier cuvée classique for comparison.

In addition, on my visit to the estate last month, I was also able to taste the 2017 La Migoua and Cabassaou from barrel sample. The Tourtine was being bottled that day, and so was not available, and I also did not have a chance to taste the 2017 cuvée . 2017 was a very dry vintage, with harvesting from 28 August to 12 September. Quantities are low — 16 hl/ha overall — and the quality looks to be excellent.

2018 is a vintage with plenty of mildew, thereby seriously restricting production. Harvesting was quite long, from 27 August to 25 September. Other than the rosé (reviewed in the previous post), I did not taste the 2018s, but expect early-drinking wines.  (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Tempier -- Current Release Wines: 2018 and 2017 rosé, 2016 reds, 2017 white

I’ve been tasting newly-released Tempiers for each of the past forty years, and I can’t recall wines quite like the 2106 reds.These wines are more tannic and backward than I can recall for young Tempier. The wines were always drinkable young, even if they had plenty of potential for improvement, but this vintage really is for the future, especially the special cuvée wines.

Notably, the estate is now using large ovals made by the excellent Stockinger firm in Austria. For southern French wines, I have found no cooperage that comes anywhere close to Stockinger.

Tempier is now biodynamic. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine La Bastide Blanche -- Current Release Bandols

One of the top Bandol estates, offering quality across the board. The estate follows organic and biodynamic principles. (Continue reading here.)

2017 Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted: Gonon, Ferraton, Alain Graillot, and Corine, Jean-Paul & Loîc Jamet

The 2017 vintage looks excellent in the region, continuing to give fans plenty to choose from.

All wines below are red unless otherwise specified. (Continue reading here.)

Jean-Luc & Éric BURGUET, Sylvie ESMONIN, François LECLERC, Philippe LECLERC, Michel MAGNIEN -- 2017s Tasted from Barrel Samples

More wines to show the diversity of quality in Gevrey in 2017. I’m not a fan of oaky wines, but putting my personal preferences aside, on a “more objective” basis, the Esmonin and Leclerc wines below are very good. (Continue reading here.)

DROUHIN-LAROSE, Pierre GELIN, HARMAND-GEOFFROY, Philippe NADDEF, Pierre NAIGEON, TORTOCHOT -- 2017s Tasted from Barrel Samples

More examples here of plenty of good wines in Gevrey in 2017, and occasional great ones. (Continue reading here.)

Pierre DAMOY, Dominique GALLOIS, Philippe GIROUD, Philippe LIVERA, Henri MAGNIEN, Cécille TREMBLAY, Domaine des VAROILLES -- Various 2017s from Gevrey-Chambertin Tasted from Barrel Samples

As with some of my other recent postings, one sees here some of the unevenness of the vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin. (Continue reading here.)

René BOUVIER, René LECLERC, Henri RICHARD, TAUPENOT-MERME -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples

The quality is consistent in this selection, without any wine that especially stands out from the others. (Continue reading here.)

Château PRADEAUX -- Current Releases and Some Older Wines from Bandol and the Surrounding Area

Pradeaux is one of the great and historic names of Bandol, and it can be relied upon for some of the best and longest-lived wines of the region.

All wines are red, except as otherwise stated. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de TERREBRUNE -- Current Release Wines and Some Older Re-Releases

This is one of Bandol’s top estates. One attractive aspect is the release of older wines so that customers who don’t have the facilities to cellar wines can nevertheless experience aged wine. The reds are generally 85% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, and 5% Cinsault. Certified organic. (Continue reading here.)

2017 GUILLON, HERESTZYN-MAZZINI, BERTHAUT-GERBET, and DUROCHÉ: 2017 Gevrey 1er Crus Tasted from Barrel Samples

These are four very good producers, worth keeping an eye out for. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Paul et Marie JACQUESON (Rully) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

This is one of my favorite domaines on the Côte Chalonnaise. The 2017s here are good, but still disappointing compared to what I have found in other vintages. In particular, the reds lacked their usual precision. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine HUMBERT Frères (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples

These are good wines for those seeking a lighter, somewhat more modern style. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Marc ROY (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle

Alexandrine Roy continues to do an excellent job with her tiny estate. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine Bruno CLAIR (Marsannay) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples

In the competitive world of Gevrey-Chambertin, Bruno Clair is one of the long-time references, and this trio shows very good results. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de COURCEL (Pommard) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples

Under the guidance of Yves Confuron, this estate consistently has been producing the best wines of Pommard for quite a number of years. Like the wines Confuron makes at his home estate Confuron-Cotétidot, these are very great wines. They are topped off by the phenomenal Grand Clos des Épenots and Rugiens.

As at Confuron-Cotétidot, picking was very late. Yields were 23 hl/ha. As usual, the grapes were not destemmed.(Continue reading here.)

Domaine CONFURON-COTÉTIDOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel

As usual, Yves Confuron began his harvest after most other producers had finished theirs; in 2017 the start date was 15 September. Yields were 27 hl/ha, which he described as normal. Some malo-lactic fermentations were early, others late.

As usual, these are outstanding to great wines from beginning to end. (Continue reading here.)