(Originally published January 2018)
I’ve mentioned previously that in 2015, one sees the vintage’s strength in the quality of the lesser appellations; the wines from the grands crus can be truly outstanding, but with a small number of exceptions, the grands crus hit ceilings that are below their maximum potential. In 2016, although there are very good wines from top producers from lesser appellations, it is with the top appellations that one sees the vintage at its most impressive. And that is certainly the case with Dujac, where the vintage has been most successful. These wines are all in the top group for their respective appellations, and the more one continues through the list, the greater the wines get and the fewer the challengers for top wine of the appellation.
I’ve mentioned previously that in 2015, one sees the vintage’s strength in the quality of the lesser appellations; the wines from the grands crus can be truly outstanding, but with a small number of exceptions, the grands crus hit ceilings that are below their maximum potential. In 2016, although there are very good wines from top producers from lesser appellations, it is with the top appellations that one sees the vintage at its most impressive. And that is certainly the case with Dujac, where the vintage has been most successful. These wines are all in the top group for their respective appellations, and the more one continues through the list, the greater the wines get and the fewer the challengers for top wine of the appellation.
2016 Charmes-Chambertin
This is good Charmes-Chambertin with floral aromas, red cherry fruit, purity, and even crystallinity. (92-96)
2016 Echézeaux
The Echézeaux is a good step up from the Charmes-Chabertin, though. Floral scents here, too. The mouth has red currant fruit and is crisp, cool, sensual, and pure. Alas, only a bit more than half of normal production. (94-97)
2016 Clos de la Roche
Always a star, the Clos de la Roche has mineral red fruits, especially red currants, and characteristic energy and tension. (94-97)
2016 Clos Saint-Denis
But even more of a star in this vintage is the Clos Saint-Denis. The wine is spicy (nutmeg) and pure with red currant and other red fruits. It is perfectly balanced and so light on the palate. About 90% whole clusters here, and about 75% new oak. (95-98)
2016 Bonnes-Mares
The equally splendid Bonnes-Mares is light on the palate with spicy red fruits and outstanding length. It is in ideal of Bonnes-Mares. Like the Clos Saint-Denis, about 90% whole clusters and 75% new oak. (95-98)
2016 Romanée-Saint-Vivant
The Romanée-Saint-Vivant has dark fruits with some red. The wine is complex, pure, and light on the palate. (95-98)
2016 Chambertin
I’ve mentioned that there were four unforgettable wines that I tasted from 2016; were I to expand that list to five, this Chambertin would probably be the addition. The wine has mineral red fruits and is saline, pure, and open, with a medium-weight body. Dujac was relatively lucky here with a yield of 27 hl/ha, larger than most other Chambertin producers I visited. (96-99)