More wines to show the diversity of quality in Gevrey in 2017. I’m not a fan of oaky wines, but putting my personal preferences aside, on a “more objective” basis, the Esmonin and Leclerc wines below are very good.
Jean-Luc & Éric BURGUET
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux
This wine is finesse in Gevrey — lightness, purity, and precision in its red fruits. (91-95)
Sylvie ESMONIN
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques
The oak that seems to characterize Esmonin’s wines, at least while young, is most present in the nose. The mouth is light and smooth in texture with dark fruits and overall finesse. (92-95)
François LECLERC
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux
François Leclerc is new to me, but appears to be succeeding René Leclerc (some of whose 2017s I’ve already reviewed). This wine shows red fruits and some minerality with lightness on the palate, but it ideally could have still more precision. (90-92)
Philippe LECLERC
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Philippe Leclerc’s wines have long been noted for their oak domination when young (although I concede that the older examples I’ve had have integrated the oak well). The oak is evident here, but not necessarily excessive, and the wine is round and smooth. At this point, I’m unable to judge it higher, but there is such a possibility. (89-92)
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moînes
Leclerc’s Combe aux Moînes shows some mineraltiy, some acidity, dark fruits, and good promise. The oak does not dominate here. (91-93)
Michel MAGNIEN
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots
This medium-weight wine has red fruits and good acidity, but is lacking in character. (88-90)