Joseph DROUHIN (Beaune) -- 2016 Part I: Chablis, Côte Chalonnaise, and village Côte de Beaune whites Tasted from Bottle

(Originally published February 2018)

Harvest dates are given below for each wine. All grapes were destemmed.  Many of Drouhin’s whites started malolactic fermentation in the autumn before the weather turned cold. 

In Chablis, Drouhin’s 2016 yield was less than half a crop. All the damage was due to the frost; the hail on 13 May did not affect Drouhin’s wines. What remained on the vines made for very good wines, though.

These Chablis wines go under the name Drouhin-Vaudon, the Domaine de Vaudon being Drouhin’s initial purchase in the region, many years ago.

The Vaudéir and Clos were raised in oak, the others in stainless steel.

2016 Chablis    Réserve de Vaudon
This is classic Chablis with an austere nose of grapefruits. The grapefruit continues in the mouth with a bit of oiliness to the texture and good acidity and tension. Harvested 28-30 September. 88/A-

2016 Chablis   1er Cru   Vaillons
 The nose of the Vaillons is floral and light. The mouth shows good density to its citric fruit and is medium-weight and firm. Harvested 27 September.  91/A

2016 Chablis    1er Cru  Montmains
The Montmains is floral in the nose. The mouth is steely, firm, austere, and lemony. It is a classic. Harvested 27 September. 91/A

2016 Chablis   Grand Cru   Vaudésir
Drouhin's Vaudésir has floral and slight butter aromas along with steeliness. The mouth is medium-light and steely with good intensity and penetration. There’s a slight butteriness to the wine, but it remains classic Chablis, and a brilliant one, at that. Harvested 28 September. 93/A

2016 Chablis   Grand Cru   Les Clos
Last of the Chablis presented, the Clos has typical crushed seashell aromas. The mouth is medium-weight with some creaminess, a touch of butter, and citrus fruits. The wine shows very good length. Harvested 29 September. For Clos, yield was only 25% of normal. 93/A

2016 Montagny
The Montagny has floral and peach aromas. The mouth is rich and smoother than that of the Rully below. The wine is clear and elegant. 88/A-

2016 Rully  blanc
The stony nose here is followed by a mouth that is dense and concentrated with citric flavors, acidity, and length. Just a touch of new oak shows through. Harvested 30 September through 10 October. 89/A

Drouhin makes village whites that are models of their respective appellations, and there’s no departure from that statement here.

2016 Meursault
The Meursault has butter and a hint of lime in the nose. The mouth shows butter flavors with clarity, smoothness, a bit of oiliness, complex and nuanced flavors, and good length. Harvested 21 September to 3 October.  92/A

2016 Chassagne-Montrachet
The Chassagne-Montrachet has mineral and a bit of butteriness in the nose. The mouth wis round with some sucrosity, but also minerality. The wine is long and shows some leesiness which, like the sucrosity, will fade away with time. Harvested 21 to 30 Septemeber.  91/A

2016 Puligny-Montrachet
The Puligny has some butter in the nose along with dusty and stony elements. The mouth is medium-weight and pure with good minerality and some creaminess to provide overall sensuality. Harvested 22-27 September. 92/A