Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2016 Taste from Tank and Barrel

(Originally published February 2018)

Thomas Bouley said that overall, he lacked about 70% of a normal crop, making it the smallest vintage since 2012. Harvesting began on 20 September with the reds; the only white was the Aligoté, which is always the last wine harvested here. No red Bourgogne or Beaune 1er Cru Reversées was produced in 2016.

Under the difficult conditions, successful wines were made, and I look forward to tasting the 2017s.


2016 Bourgogne-Aligoté
The Bourgogne-Aligoté has mineral and iron aromas. The mouth is mineral with some lime fruit, purity, clarity, and lightness. (86-89)

2016 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Beaune   Pinot Noir
This wine is pure and pretty with dark and red fruits and good precision. The vines are right by the limit of the Volnay appellation. A small part of this vineyard is from 6 year-old vines, the largest part from 40 year-old vines. Yield was about 18 hl/ha. (87-90)

2016 Volnay   vieilles vignes
This wine features dark fruits that are dense and pure and there is plenty of firmness here. (88-92)

2016 Volnay    Clos de la Cave
The Volnay, Clos de la Cave has dark fruit aromas and flavors with minerality, medium-weight, and good acidity, length, and structure. 50% whole clusters here. The vines date from five different periods; the youngest are 20 years-old, the oldest 90 years-old, and the average is 45-50 years. (89-92)

2016 Pommard
This wine comes primarily from high slopes with white soils and a cold climate. I find dark fruits, especially cassis, with good density, and some chalkiness. The wine is quite concentrated and fresh. (89-92)

2016 Volnay   1er Cru   Les Caillerets
The vines are still young here (13 years-old), so one can only imagine the splendors yet to come as they continue to age. As it is, this wine is quite a success. The aromas are of dark fruits. The mouth shows typical Caillerets texture with red fruits and good minerality. There was no frost damage here in 2016. (91-94)

2016 Volnay     1er Cru    Les Carelles
The Carelles is pure with mineral red fruits, especially red currants, medium weight, and a smooth texture. 10-15% whole clusters in this wine. There was a little frost damage here. The vines are 18 years-old. (90-94)

2016 Volnay    1er Cru   Clos des Chênes
Bouley’s Clos des Chênes holding is in the southern part of the vineyard, near Monthélie. There was serious frost damage here, resulting in a yield of barely 20 hl/ha. The wine features concentrated dark and red fruits with minerality and purity. The wine seems a little broader than usual. 10-15% whole clusters here. (91-94)

2016 Pommard    1er Cru     Les Frémiers
The nose here is slightly herbal. The mouth shows dark fruit and is firm and direct with purity and balance. The vineyard is just below Rugiens and suffered hail three times in 2016, yielding just 9 hl/ha. No whole clusters here. (90-94)

2016 Pommard    1er Cru   Les Rugiens
In contrast to the Frémiers, the Rugiens delivered at harvest of 35 hl/ha, and there was 30% whole clusters here. This is from the upper part of the vineyard, which is almost pure limestone with almost no clay. The fruit is red and dark with purity and the wine is firm, long, and focused. Excellent quality. (92-95)