(Originally published 26 February 2018)
Harvesting for de Montille and associated Château de Puligny-Montrachet began on 17 September. There was light chaptalization for a couple of cuvées, otherwise none, and no acidification.
Harvesting for de Montille and associated Château de Puligny-Montrachet began on 17 September. There was light chaptalization for a couple of cuvées, otherwise none, and no acidification.
The vintage required 13 treatments for mildew and oïdium vs. 8 in 2017.
Overall, the estate was down 20% from a full harvest, but some areas such as Pommard and Beaune, suffered much more seriously.
2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This wine is pure and light with finesse and freshness to its red fruits, especially raspberries and red currants. Historically, the wine has come from vines along the route nationale that had once been classified as Volnay; in 2012 de Montille bought vines across the route nationale from Puligny-Montrachet that now also make up part of the wine. No whole clusters, about 10% new oak. (88-91)
For the Beaunes, de Montille’s losses due to the frost were about 50%.
2016 Beaune 1er Cru Les Sizies
The Beaune-Sizies has a chalky, floral nose. The mouth shows cassis and red currants with juiciness, good acidity, freshness, and good intensity, as well as some sleekness. De Montille has been taking this second-tier Beaune premier cru to higher levels in the past several years. One-third whole clusters, 15% new oak. Malolactic fermentation only finished in August. (90-93)
2016 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
The Grèves has dark fruit and more weight than the Sizies with good persistence. It is more of a wine for aging. One-third whole clusters, 20%, at most, new oak. Vines are 65 years-old. (91-95)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans
Here we have the dark plum fruit and power of Mitans. The wine is long and persistant with some tannins. The vines are 45 years-old and not the best vegetal material, but they are held to 1-2 clusters per vine (yield in 2016 was 25 hl/ha). Two-thirds whole clusters, malolactic only finished in September. (91-95)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans
The Champans shows good acidity and finesse for Champans. The wine is linear without the plumpness of the vineyard. There’s red berry fruit here and quite a bit of sophistication. One-third whole clusters. The vines at the bottom vineyard were a complete loss, the vines in the middle lost some due to the frost, but the vines at the top gave twice the normal yield: go figure. (91-95)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds
The Taillepieds has elegant, floral dark fruits. the mouth is energetic and penetrating, making for a classic Taillepieds. All whole clusters, 1/3 new oak. These are the oldest of de Montille’s Volnay vines at 60+ years. (93-96)
2016 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles
Here, the nose is floral and chalky (there’s lots of limestone and not much clay in the vineyard). The mouth is juicy with cassis and strawberry fruit, fine tannins, and plenty of finesse for Pommard. One-third whole clusters, about 30% new oak. Losses due to the frost were severe here. (92-95)
2016 Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens-Bas
De Montille’s Rugiens has dark fruit of great density. The wine is long in the mouth with quite a bit of development as the wine sits in the mouth. There’s tannin here, but not overly so, and good acidity. It should be outstanding with age. One-third whole clusters, 40% new oak. (92-96)
2016 Corton Clos-du-Roi
Last on the Côte de Beaune, the Corton Clos-du-Roi is powerful with dark fruits, especially intense cassis, and finesse for Corton. Two-thirds whole clusters, 50% new oak. The vines here average about 65 years in age. (92-96)