Domaine Georges MUGNERET-GIBOURG (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel

(Originally published January 2018)

Harvesting here began 24 September. All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were “classic”— finishing in spring and the wines were racked in June. 

As with the majority estates that I visited, there was at least one wine that will not be made or commercialized in 2016; here, it was the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru, Les Feusselottes. But what wine was made in the other appellations is, as usual, worthy of the most serous attention.

2016 Bourgogne    Pinot Noir
Only three barrels here instead of the usual ten. As a result, there’s 33% new oak (one cask) instead of the usual 10%, but the wine seems capable of absorbing it. The nose is pure and precise in its fruit. The mouth is fresh, pure and spicy with red fruits. Overall, the wine shows length and great precision, and is more than one could reasonably hope for from such a modest appellation. (90-93)

2016 Vosne-Romanée
The Vosne has typical Asian spices along with dark fruits and sensuality. Production here is about 20% down from a normal crop. (90-93)

2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges     Bas de Combe
The village Nuits has been a rarely-seen wine from Mugneret-Gibourg, but beginning in 2017, the sharecropping agreement that had been in effect stopped, and so there will be double the amount for the future. The Bas de Combe is an excellent lieu-dit, just outside the Vosne appellation. The nose here is smoky with mineral and stony elements. The mouth is broad and deep with mineral dark fruits. (90-93)

2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges    1er Cru   Les Chaignots
The superb Chaignots is spicy and intense in the nose. The mouth shows spicy red fruits with hints of darker ones, freshness, and purity. 45% new oak here. Production is only 60% of normal. (92-95)

2016 Ruchottes-Chambertin
In contrast to the foregoing, the Ruchottes-Chambertin achieved a normal vintage production. The nose is very typical of Ruchottes-Chambertin with spicy, mineral red fruits. The mouth is pure, long, and light on the palate with strawberry fruit that is deep and stony. 70% new oak on this wine, and it can take the oak. (93-96)

2016 Clos-Vougeot
The Clos-Vougeot has typical black raspberries in the nose along with some red currants. The mouth is dense, pure, and spicy with dark berry fruits, minerality, and opulence. Production is 60-65% of normal. (93-97)

2016 Echézeaux
Last, the Echézeaux has spicy dark fruit aromas that are broad, intense, and deep. The moth is medium-weight with concentrated red cherry and red currant fruit and spices that are intense. The texture is smooth and the wine shows the overall sensuality of Echézeaux. (94-98)