Arnaud Mortet said that he began harvest on 23 September. Over the summer, he did some green harvesting in order to homogenize the maturity of the grapes. Overall, the maturity was very good, with the grapes coming in at 12.5-13.5º natural alcohol. There was a very small bit of chaptalization. Arnaud noted that the tannins were of hight quality.
Overall, the estate lost 45% from a full harvest. The vineyards most seriously affected were the premiers and grands crus.
Arnaud said that he used a fair amount of whole clusters in the wines (e.g., 30% in the grands crus) in contrast to 2017, where he used little due to the lower acidities of the wines.
Malolactic fermentations generally finished in June and July, not terribly late for this cellar which is quite cold.
2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
The Bourgogne has red currant and pomegranate fruit with purity, freshness, medium-weight, and a smooth texture. 25% new oak here. (87-90)
2016 Marsannay Les Longeraies
The frost cost Mortet 40% of full production, but that’s quite lucky compared to the village as a whole, where losses were 65-75%. This outstanding wine has dark fruit aromas and flavors, minerality, energy, and excellent balance. About 25% new oak. (90-93)
2016 Fixin vieilles vignes
The Fixin is mineral and pure with focus and dark fruits; the acidity is more apparent here than in the previous wines. There was no frost here. 25% new oak, about 50% whole clusters. (88-91)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin
This wine is medium-weight with good energy, purity, and finesse to its dark fruits. In the past, this wine had been sold off to négociants in Beaune. I believe that this wine is to be commercialized under the Arnaud Mortet label. (90-93)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs
Mortet’s Gevrey, Cinq Terroirs is broader and shows more power than the regular Gevrey. There’s plenty of freshness to the dark fruit here. 30% new oak here. (89-93)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Here, too, we have fresh dark fruits with energy and finesse, and also notable length and nervosity. The wine from the Champonnets vineyard, in recent years bottled on its own, is included here (along with wine from Petite Chapelle, Cherbaudes, and Bel Air) because there was only enough Champonnets to make a single barrel. Half new oak here, half whole clusters. (92-95)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière
The Gevrey-Perrière is medium-light in weight with red cherry and red currant fruit, and it shows good freshness and energy, plus some finesse. It is a very fine example of the Perrières terroir. I believe that this wine is to be commercialized under the Arnaud Mortet label. (92-95)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux
Mortet’s Gevrey-Champeaux is fuller in body and less energetic than the Perrières, as one would expect, with dark fruit. This wine seemed to be somewhat shut down when I tasted it. No frost here, vines that are 60-70 years old. 60% new oak, about 50-60% whole clusters. (90-94)
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques
The Gevrey-Lavaux Saint-Jacques is fresh, intense, and wild with dark fruit and quite a bit of energy. The wine is most typical of Lavaux Saint-Jacques. Very few whole clusters in this wine, about a 50-60% loss from a full vintage. (92-95)
2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Beaux Bruns
This wine should have been shown earlier in the presentation. It is concentrated with red fruits, especially cherries, and the spices that seem to characterize Beaux Bruns. Great length to this wine. Only one barrel produced in 2016; a full harvest would be five barrels. (91-95)