(Originally published February 2018)
This sampling of the Drouhin grands crus indicates excellent wines for those who can find and afford them.
This sampling of the Drouhin grands crus indicates excellent wines for those who can find and afford them.
2016 Clos-de-Vougeot
The smoky nose is followed in the mouth by dark fruits that are dense, pure, and mineral. The wine has good acidity and liveliness. Harvested 30 September. 10% whole clusters. (92-96)
2016 Grands-Echézeaux
Here, the nose is smoky, too. The mouth shows smoky black licorice and dark fruit flavors that are pure, intense, and deep, and the wine shows power, too. Harvested 30 September. 30% whole clusters. (93-97)
2016 Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze
This is a négociant wine, but like Drouhin’s estate wines, it has been in biodynamic cultivation for a couple of decades. The nose has mineral dark fruits with Clos-de-Bèze muskiness. The mouth shows mineral dark fruits with lightness on the palate, length, purity, and finesse. This is a big step up from the Clos-de-Bèze that I had at Drouhin several years ago. Harvested 2-4 October, 20% whole clusters. (94-97)
2016 Griotte-Chambertin
Back to Drouhin’s own vineyards, the Griotte-Chambertin has dark fruits that are mineral and pure. The mouth shows black and red cherry fruit that is light, fresh, long, and pure and that floats above the tongue. Harvested 28 September. 20% whole clusters. (94-97)
2016 Musigny
Last, the Musigny has a nose that is deep and powerful with dark fruits. The mouth has the velvet texture of Musigny with power and elegance — the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove — with purity. Perhaps not reaching the greatest heights of Musigny, but pretty damn good, nonetheless. Three barrels (900 bottles). Harvested 29 September. 30% whole clusters. (94-97)