(Originally published 19 March 2018)
Harvesting began on 21 September; it finished, on the Côte de Nuits, on 6 October. The grapes were in excellent health, but triage was needed nonetheless to eliminate those second and third generation grapes that had not fully ripened. Overall, crop was 50% off a full vintage, the smallest since 2003; in addition to the frost, mildew seriously held down the crop, and in some areas vines were blocked by the drought in the second half of the summer.
Vinification varied according to the level of yields. Where there were low yield vines and concentrated grape bunches, maceration was eight to ten days and the crush was moderated to limit extraction. Where yields were normal and bunches larger, the maceration was ten to thirteen days. There was no pigeage (punching down).
For the red wines, malolactic fermentations generally were early.
For the red wines, malolactic fermentations generally were early.
Beginning with the 2016 vintage, Bouchard will have a new label. Instead of the current label, which is quite individual and therefore easily identifiable at a distance, the new one is understated and almost generic in appearance.
2016 Bourgogne Réserve Pinot Noir
This wine is floral and spicy in the nose with some violets. The mouth is smooth and long with red fruits. It’s an easy wine to approach, but one-dimensional. The grapes in this very short vintage, come from all parts of Burgundy. (83-87)
2016 Monthélie (Domaine)
The Monthélie features mineral dark fruit aromas along with violets. The mouth shows a velvet texture with strawberry flavors. There’s attractive acidity here and the wine is quite approachable. Production was half of a full harvest. (86-89)
2016 Pommard
The Pommard is smooth and velvety with red fruits and good length. The vineyards here were very badly hit by frost and mildew. This wine is a composite of estate fruit and purchased grapes. 25% new oak, 15-20% whole clusters here. (86-89)
2016 Beaune 1er Cru du Château (Domaine)
The Beaune du Château is the wine made from Bouchard’s extensive premier cru holdings in Beaune that do not go into specific vineyard bottlings. The wine shows dark fruits, good acidity, and good liveliness. In 2016, production was only 12-15 hl/ha. This is the definitive assemblage. (89-92)
2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse (Domaine)
The nose here is floral. The mouth shows raspberry and dark fruits, a smooth texture, and the wine is light on the palate. This Bouchard monopole is not one of the top Beaune vineyards, but Bouchard does an increasingly good job with it. (89-92)
2016 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus (Domaine)
The Beaune-Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus has cassis aromas. The palate is smooth and light with some spice, red fruits, and good density and concentration. Yield was 30 hl/ha — this was Bouchard’s only Beaune vineyard not to have been hit by the frost. 30% new oak, 15% whole clusters. (91-94)
2016 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot (Domaine)
Bouchard’s Volnay-Caillerets has soy and dark fruit aromas. The mouth shows dark fruits, especially cassis and blueberry, and the wine shows the special, smooth Caillerets texture. The mouth is concentrated and long. No frost damage here, 30% new oak, 20% whole clusters. (91-94)
2016 Le Corton (Domaine)
Last for the Côte de Beaune reds, the Le Corton has dark fruit aromas with slight gaminess, iodide, and soy overtones and very good intensity. The mouth is medium-weight, dense, concentrated with mineral red fruits and good length. The wine is not as powerful as some Cortons, but it has excellent intensity and very good complexity. Almost not frost damage here. 35% new oak; 20% whole clusters. (92-95)