Prinz SALM (Nahe and Rheinhessen) Part I -- Current Release Dry, Non-GG Rieslings and a Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder)
This estate holds vines in both the Nahe and the Rheinhessen areas, but the Rheinhessen vines are just over the boundary in Bingen, so that for all but the political boundary purposes, they are Nahe wines.
Production in the Nahe is small but there are many high-quality producers. The two best-known in recent decades have been Dönnhoff and more recently, Schäfer-Fröhlich, but there are a number of others that are worth seeking out, including the wines from Salm, at the northern end of the Nahe region.
The estate dates to 1200, the oldest German estate still in private hands, and one of the oldest estates in operation anywhere.
The estate was a founding member of the Nahe chapter of the prestigious VDP organization. Moreover, Prinz Michael Salm, former head of the estate, was for 17 years the president of the overall VDP. His son, Felix Salm, has in recent years taken over the estate and the wines, which were already excellent here, are now perhaps even better.
Beginning in 1988, the estate converted to organic agriculture, one of the early estates in Germany to do so. (Continue reading here.)
Jura Chardonnays Recently Tasted: Gréa, Pélican/d'Angerville, Pinte, Tissot
Recent vintages have been challenging in the region due to problems such as frost, hail, and scorching weather. Each wine has to be evaluated on its own, not by vintage. (Continue reading here.)
Current Release Champagnes from Bonnaire
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Bonnaire is located in the village of Cramant on the Côte de Blancs. Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, it has long been a favorite of mine. (Continue reading here.)
The Fabulous Champagnes of Pascal Agrapart
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The estate has long been one of my favorites. For many years, it was known as Agrapart; now the current principal, Pascal Agrapart, has added his first name to the estate, although not all labels may yet reflect that fact.
Seven wines are produced, of which I review four here. All wines are from estate grapes on the Côte des Blancs. (Continue reading here.)
Still More Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted -- Reynaud, Cave de Tain, Vernay, Vindiou
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All wines are red except for the Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage Empreinte du Rhône. (Continue reading here.)
More Northern Rhône Reds Recently Tasted-- Grand Comtadine/Chéron-Misset, Alain Graillot, Jamet, Marsanne
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Of recent vintages, 2020 may be the most consistent, as these wines demonstrate.
All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)
Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted: Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph from Aléofane/Chave, Alexandre, Ferme des 7 Lunes, Fournalet
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Recent Northern Rhone vintages have been quite mixed. In 2019, especially, overripeness was frequently a problem, while in 2021 I have found wines that showed phenolic immaturity. Choose carefully.
All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Baden Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) GG Part II: Bassgeige Kähne, Schlossberg from Michel and Franz Keller
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Good Michel, poor Keller. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2019 Baden Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) GG Part I: Eichberg, Feuerberg, Henkberg, Schlossgarten Villinger from Bercher and Salwey
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More promising than the Weisser Burgunder from Baden. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Baden Weisser Burgunder Part II: Hinter Winkeln "Gras im Ofen", Weingarten "Wingerte", Winklerberg Pagode from Heger, Schlumberger-Bernhart, Stigler
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A slightly more satisfying group. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2019 Weisser Burgunder GG from Baden Part I: Feuerberg Haslen, Kirchberg, Steingrubenberg from Bercher and Salwey
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Here, too, a poor showing for Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here,)
2021 and 2020 Wûrttemberg Weisser Burgunder: Gips Marienglas, Hungerberg, and Schlossberg from Aldinger, Ellwanger, and Neipperg
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A small, but not very edifying, showing for Württemberg Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Weisser Burgunder GG from the Pfalz Part III: Kalmit, Sonnenberg from Bernhart, Jülg, Kranz, Siegrist
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2021 Weisserburgunder GG from the Pfalz Part II: Mandelberg, Münzberg Schlangenpfiff, Rosenkranz im Untern Kreuz, Im Sonnenschein from Minges, Münzberg/Kessler, Rebholz, Wehrheim
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Very good wines here, even if not the finest of Weisserburgunder vintages. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Weiss Burgunder GG from the Pfalz Part I -- Herrenberg, Kirschgarten, Langenmorgen, Mandelberg am Speyrer Weg from Bassermann-Jordan, Bergdolt/Sankt Lamprecht, Knipser, Kuhn, Pfeffingen
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Weiss Burgunder (also known as Weiß Burgunder, Weisserburgunder, Weißerburgunder, and Pinot Blanc) performs uniquely well in Germany, and especially in the Pfalz region, where at its best it can be racy and pure. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Franken Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc) Karthäuser and Stein-Berg from Juliusspital and Staatliche Hofkeller Würzburg
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Only two wines shown here at the Wiesbaden GG Preview, but they show that Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder) need not be a neutral, boring wine. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Ahr Frühburgunder GG -- Herrenberg, Mönchberg, Sonnenberg from Burggarten and Deutzerhof
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Frühburgunder is an earlier-ripening version of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and quite similar in overall presentation.
2020 Ahr Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Burggarten, Kirchtürmchen, Landskrone, Rosenthal, Schieferlay from Burggarten, Deutzerhof, Nelles
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I’m very sorry to say this, but some of the Ahr wines are just bad to my (Burgundy-trained Pinot Noir) palate, but others are clearly technically-flawed and should not have been allowed by the VDP to bear the GG designation or any designation related to VDP. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Ahr Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Alte Lay, Eck, Kräuterberg, Mönchberg Spätburgunder GG from Adenauer, Burggarten, Deutzerhof
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This is a region where I’ve rarely producers making wines that I could appreciate. That appears to be especially the case in 2020. Given the catastrophic losses of so many producers in 2021 as a result of the floods, I hesitated to post my notes on Ahr wines, but finally decided that if they were willing to label them as GG and show them, consumers were entitled to my views on the wines. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Rheingau Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Hassel, Reichestal, Berg Schlossberg from Kloster Eberbach, Kaufmann, and Künstler
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Alas, less promising wines here than with the Höllenbergs. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Rheingau Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Höllenberg from Allendorf, Kesseler, Kloster Eberbach, and Künstler
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Wines from this vineyard have a track record of long ageability. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Rheinhessen Spätburgunder Part II -- Heerkretz, Horn, Kreuz, Pares, from Kühling-Gillot, Neus, Wagner-Stempel
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Moving to the northern part of Rheinhessen, less prestigious for Pinot Noir than the Wonnegau in the south, but still producing wines of interest. (Continue reading here.)
der GG Part I -- Brunnenhäuschen, Frauenberg, Kirchenstück, Morstein from Battenfeld-Spanier, Gutzler, Keller
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Two winners and two losers. (Continue reading here.)
2020, 2019, 2018 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part IV -- Felsenberg, Im Grossen Garten, Kirschgarten, Mandelpfad, Saumagen, Steinbuckel from Knipser, Kuhn, and Rings
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Here we have Kinipser, one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir producers; Rings, who’s still a new kid on the block but rapidly demonstrating that he deserves to be in the top tier; and Philipp Kuhn, who may be just a little bit behind those two but also produces excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Pfalz Spätburgunder GG Part III -- Idig, Kalkberg, Kastanienbusch Köppel, Munzberg Schlangenpfiff, Rosenkranz - Zinkelberg from Christmann, Minkes, Munzberg/Kessler, Wehrheim
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Moving to the central part of the Pfalz, some producers whom I normally like were somewhat disappointing in their 2019 offerings. Perhaps the wines have begun to close? Or perhaps its the character of the vintage here. (Continue reading here.)
2020, 2018, and 2017 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part II -- Kalmit, Sonnenberg, Sonnenschein from Kranz, Rebholz, Siegrist, and Wehrheim
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There are some good wines in this set, but not at the overall level of the Schweigen wines or the wines from these producers that I have seen in certain other vintages. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Pfalz Spätburgunder Part I -- Heydenreich, Kammerberg, KB,, Kostert, Sankt Paul, Sonnenberg KT, Sonnenberg RG from Becker, Bernhart, and Jülg
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Schweigen is on the border with Alsace and these producers have some vines in French territory that is allowed to be labelled as German wine. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Württemberg Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Forstberg, Gips Marienglas, Lämmler, Mönchberg Öde Halde from Aldinger, Beurer, Dautel, Heid, Schnaitmann
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Somehow, most of the producers here just don’t make Spätburgunder that speaks to me. Dautel is the major exception. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Württemberg Spätburgunder Part I -- Geissberg, Himmelreich, Ruthe, Schlossberg, Schupen from Dautel, Neipperg, Wachstetter, Weinsberg
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A mixed bag here. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2019 Franken Spätburgunder GG Part II -- Centgrafenberg, Hundsrück, and Maustal from Fürst, Luckert, and Steintal
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More outstanding wine from Fürst and an attractive one from Luckert. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Franken Spätburgunder GG Part I -- Bischofsberg and Schlossberg from Fürst, Staatliche Weinkeller, and Steintal
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Fürst is way ahead of everyone else . . . but you already knew that. (Continue reading here.)
2020 and 2018 Baden Spätburgunder GG Part V -- Vorderer Winklerberg, Vorderer Winklerberg "Backöffle", Winklerberg Hinter Winkeln, Winkeln "Rappenecker", Winklerberg Wanne "Häselboden" from Heger, Michel, and Stigler
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The wines of Ihringen finish off the Baden GG’s. (Continue reading here.)
2020 Baden Spätburgunder Part IV -- Enselberg, Feuerberg Kesselberg, and Schlossberg from Bercher, Heger, Franz Keller, and Michel
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2020 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part III -- Bassgeige Steinreise, Eichberg, Kirchberg, and Henkenberg from Franz Keller and Salwey
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2020 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part II -- Alte Berg, Kirchgasse, Schlossberg, Sommerhalde from Huber and Wöhrle
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2020 and 2019 Baden Spätburgunder Part I: Bienenberg, Königsbacher, Löchle, Wildenstein from Burg Ravensburg, Heitlinger, and Huber
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In the wake of the tragically premature death of Bernhard Huber, his wife and son continue to maintain the estate as one of the two finest for Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) in Germany (along with Rudolf Fürst). (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Franken Riesling GG Part IV -- Centgrafenberg, Fürstlicher Kallmuth, Rothlauf, Stein from Bickel-Stumpf, Fürst, Stein/Knoll, Löwenstein
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Finishing off the report on Riesling GG; Spätburgunder up next. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Franken Riesling GG Part III -- Hohenroth and Pfülben from Bürgerspital, Schmitt's Kinder, Staatliche Hofkeller, and Störrlein Krenig
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Continued quality in Franken in 2021. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Franken Riesling GG Part II-- Am Lumpen 1655, Maustal, Ratsherr from Luckert, Müller, H. Sauer, and R. Sauer
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More mostly excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Franken Riesling GG Part I -- Julius-Echter-Berg,Kammer, Stein-Berg from Bürgerspital, Juliusspital, Staatliche Hofkeller, Wirsching
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Moving to the last Riesling region, Franken, the excellence of the vintage continues. (Continue reading here.)
2021, 2020, 2016 Württemberg Riesling GG Part III -- Mühlberg, Ruthe, Schlossberg, Steingruben from Dautel, Neipperg, Wachstetter
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Much more interesting results from this part of the region. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Württemberg Riesling GG Part II -- Burg Wildeck Herrschatsberg, Götzenberg, Lämmler, Verrenberg from Aldinger, Hohenlohe Oehringen, Schnaitmann, Weinsberg
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More irregularity here. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Württemberg Riesling GG Part I -- Altenberg, Gips Marienglas, Pulvermächer from Aldinger, Beurer, J. Ellwanger, Haidle, and Heid
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A mixed bag for this first group of Rieslings. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Pfalz Riesling GG's Part X -- Kastienbusch, Kastanienbusch Köppel, Sonnenberg from Bernhart, Jülg, Rebholz, Siegrist, Wehrheim
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Finishing off what is an exceptional year for the Pfalz GG’s. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Pfalz Riesling GG Part IX -- Ganz Horn, Hölle -- Unterer Faulenberg, Kalmit, Kirchberg, Im Sonnenschein from Kranz, Minges, Rebholz
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Fully into the southern sector of the Pfalz, and the exciting quality of the vintage continues with Rebholz and Minges. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Pfalz Riesling GG Part VIII: Bürgergarten im Breumel, Hölle, Meerspinne, Michelsberg, Schäwer, Vogelsang from Christmann, Messmer, Minges, Müller-Catoir, and Rebholz
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Transitioning from the southern portion of the central Pfalz and into the southern Pfalz, the overall quality remains quite high. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part VII: Gaisböhl, Idig, Ölberg-Hart, Reiterpfad Hofstück, Reiterpfad in der Hohl, from von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, and Christmann
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Moving to the south central district of the Pfalz, the great wines continue. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part VI: Grainhübel, Hohenmorgen, Kalkofen, Kieselberg, Langenmorgen from von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, and Mosbacher
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Next, we move to Deidesheim, which is to Riesling in the Pfalz what Chambolle-Musigny is to Pinot Noir in the Côte d’Or, with tender, seductive wines. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part V: Freundstück, Jesuitengarten, Kirchenstück from Acham-Magin, von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Mosbacher
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We finish up Forst with Freundstück, a very good vineyard, but surclassed by Jesuitengarten, possibly the second best Riesling vineyard in the Pfalz, and Kirchenstück, the greatest Riesling vineyard in the Pfalz and maybe all of Germany and the world. This is Forst in all its glory. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part IV: Pechstein from Acham-Magin, von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, Mosbacher, K. Schaefer
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The second of the magnificent Forst vineyards. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part III: Ungeheuer from Acham-Magin, von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Bürklin-Wolf, and Mosbacher
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Now we begin the exploration of Forst, the Pfalz’s equivalent of Vosn-Romanée in Burgundy. All are excellent Ungeheurs, but Mosbacher and von Bassermann-Jordan have made two of the greatest Rieslings of the vintage (or any other). (Continue reading here.)
2021 Pfalz Riesling GG Part II: Annaberg, Herrenberg, Michelsberg, Saumagen, Weilberg from Kuhn, Pfeffingen, Rings, K. Schaefer
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This is one of the less-well-known parts of the Pfalz, but these are excellent producers making very fine wines. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Pfalz Riesling GG Part I: Kirschgarten, Mandelpfad, Schwarzer Herrgott, Steinbuckel from Knipser and Kuhn
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Here we are in the northern part of the Pfalz, essentially the same region as the southern Rheinhessen with only a political boundary separating them. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part VIII: Frauenberg, Kirchenstück, and Zellerweg am Scwarzen Hergott from Battenfeld-Spanier
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Finishing up the Rheinhessen and about to begin the Pfalz: (Continue reading here.)
2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part VII: Brunnenhäuschen, Morstein, Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück from Gutzler and Wittmann
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Part 2 of Philipp Wittmann’s magnificent wines here. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG and an Auction Wine Part VI: Aulerde, Falkenberg, Kirchspiel, Tafelstein from Dr. Becker, K.F. Groebe, and Wittmann
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I’ve mentioned breathtaking wines, and indeed there were some in the Nahe, but the Wonnegau begins another dimension. (Continue Reading here.)
KELLER (Flörsheim-Dalsheim): 2021 Auction Wines from Schubertslay and Pettenthal and VON OETHEGRAVEN: 2021 Auction Wine from Altenberg
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Auction wines from Klaus-Peter Keller, probably Germany’s most cultish producer: (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2020 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part V and an Auction Kabinett: Ölberg and Pettenthal from Gunderloch, Kühling Gillot, Rappenhof, St. Antony, and Schätzel
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Alas, lots of disappointments with this set. (Continue reading here.)
TESCH (Nahe) -- 2021 Rieslings Tasted from Bottle
Frankly, I can’t choose between Martin Tesch’s great 2020s and these great 2021s, notwithstanding the fact that they are two completely different vintages in terms of heat and dryness. Maybe comparing them side-by-side I could express a preference, but either one will provide you with great wine and great value for your money in today’s market.
The Nahe has an incredible set of great producers, many of whom are in the VDP. Tesch was a member of the VDP, but chose to leave it; were he still there, these wines would rate quite highly in the GG tastings. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part IV: Bruderberg, Hipping, Orbel, Zehnmorgen from Gunderloch, Kühling-Gillot, St. Antony, and Schätzel
There are very good wines here, but it’s not one of the star areas of the vintage, and indeed, I probably have a slight preference for 2020 in this region, based on what I’ve tasted. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Rheinhessen GG and and Auction Wine Part III: Fenchelberg, Hundertgulden, Rothenberg, Steinacker from Gunderloch, Knewitz, and Kühling-Gillot
We now get into wines that have long been associated with the Rheinhessen, and in particular in the case of Nackenheim, with the famous Roter Hang, named for the red soils. (Continue reading here.)
2021 Rheinhessen Riesling GG and an Auction Wine Part II: Heerkretz and Höllberg from Bischel and Wagner-Stempel
As with the previous group of wines, these are from a part of the Rheinhessen that style-wise yields wines of Nahe character, but from within the Rheinhessen political boundary. (Continue reading here.)
2021, 2020, and 2019 Rheinhessen Riesling GG Part I: Kirchberg and Scharlachberg from Bischel, Kruger-Rumpf, Salm, and Wagner-Stempel
Due to political boundaries of the regions, these wines are Rheinhessen, but based on location and style, should be considered Nahe wines akin to those in my previous post. (Continue reading here.)
2021 and 2017 Nahe Riesling GG Part IV: Felsenberg, Felsenberg Felsentürmchen, and Kupfergrube from Crusius, Dönnhoff, Hermannsberg, and Schäfer-Fröhlich
This set is an excellent example of the extraordinary depth and quality of the VDP’s Nahe section. (Continue reading here.)
RIDGE Vineyards: 2020 Fall National Releases
As I’ve pointed out previously, a transition is currently taking place at Ridge, where in March 2021 it was announced that John Olney was taking over as head winemaker and chief operating officer. The wines released since then seem less rustic and better balanced than some recent Ridge wines had been. (Continue reading here.)
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