Prinz SALM (Nahe and Rheinhessen) -- Current Release Dry, Non-GG Rieslings and a Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder)

 

This estate holds vines in both the Nahe and the Rheinhessen areas, but the Rheinhessen vines are just over the boundary in Bingen, so that for all but the political boundary purposes, they are Nahe wines.


Production in the Nahe is small but there are many high-quality producers. The two best-known in recent decades have been Dönnhoff and more recently, Schäfer-Fröhlich, but there are a number of others that are worth seeking out, including the wines from Salm, at the northern end of the Nahe region. 


The estate dates to 1200, the oldest German estate still in private hands, and one of the oldest estates in operation anywhere. 


The estate was a founding member of the Nahe chapter of the prestigious VDP organization. Moreover, Prinz Michael Salm, former head of the estate, was for 17 years the president of the overall VDP. His son, Felix Salm, has in recent years taken over the estate and the wines, which were already excellent here, are now perhaps even better.


Beginning in 1988, the estate converted to organic agriculture, one of the early estates in Germany to do so.


2021 Riesling trocken

This is a good entry-level dry Riesling with a light body, crispness, and some minerality. Screw cap closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 22. 87/C


2021 Rotschiefer Riesling

Although there is no “trocken" on the label, this wine is dry. The “Rotschiefer" means that this wine comes from red slate soils. The wine is medium-weight with some tension and plenty of acidity. It has spicy strawberry aromas and flavors and some roundness. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 22. 90/B+


2020 Grünschiefer Riesling

Here the Grünschiefer refers to the fact that this wine is from (quite rare) green slate soils. Again, there is no “trocken" designation, but this wine is essentially dry with a little sugar giving roundness and a bare hint of sweetness. Not directly comparable to the Rotschiefer because this is a different vintage, but this wine is a little rounder and softer than the Rotschiefer and it is more subtle in its mineral fruit. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 21. 89/B


2019 Dalberger Ritterhöhle Riesling trocken  Erste Lage

Crystalline, precise fruit, lemony minerality and noble austerity, very good crispness and freshness. This is from the Nahe portion of the estate and on green slate soils. The wine drinks well now and should age well for some years. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 20. 92/A


2019 Sommerlocher Steinrössel Riesling trocken  Erste Lage

This is a crystalline pure wine with a medium-full body, good acid attack, and incipient yellow peach fruit. You can drink it now, but I think it will continue to improve for several more years and then hold for still more. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 20. 91+/A-


2021 Bingen 1G Riesling trocken  Erste Lage

This wine is crisp, clear, and electric with pure, penetrating stoniness and layered white peach fruit to go with its medium-weight, firm body. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 22. 93/A


2019 Bingen am Rhein Spätburgunder

This Pinot Noir is unlikely to be what international Pinot Noir fans are looking for from Germany. But from the little I know of the market in Germany, there is good demand for wines of this type — a fair amount of richness and a very strong chocolatey oak influence in nose and mouth. Personally, I find it drinkable, but with all that oak, it’s not where my tastes run. As such, I don’t really know how to rate it — it depends on what you are looking for. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 21.  See notes