Northern Rhônes Recently Tasted: Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph from Aléofane/Chave, Alexandre, Ferme des 7 Lunes, Fournalet

 

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Recent Northern Rhone vintages have been quite mixed. In 2019, especially, overripeness was frequently a problem, while in 2021 I have found wines that showed phenolic immaturity. Choose carefully.


All wines below are red.




Domaine ALÉOFANE/Natacha CHAVE


2021 Crozes-Hermitage

I’m much more likely to complain about wines being overripe, but this one seems to be on the underripe side. The nose is fine with violets, and the purple fruit in the mouth seems to match the label, but there’s an acidity that doesn’t integrate and leaves the wine with an overall pinched feeling. Certified organic and biodynamic. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L 50.  85/D




Thierry ALEXANDRE


2019 Saint-Joseph   Les Baraques

The 2018 from this producer was a real discovery, but this vintage is somewhat less attractive with dark fruit that is less generous and precise. With substantial airing, the wine does begin to come around, somewhat. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LSJORGE19. 88/B




LA FERME DES SEPT LUNES/Jean DELOBRE et Jacques MAURICE


(2021) vin de France   SyrahThis wine shows richness with mineral dark fruit and a medium-weight body that has some velvet texture. I’d drink over the next 3-5 years. Certified organic. Synthetic closure. 11% stated alcohol. Lot L21SY.  88/A


2019 Saint-Joseph    Pleine Lune

The wine is quite funky originally and needs an hour or two in the decanter to come around. But once it does, it shows plenty of violets in the nose and mouth with a smooth, medium-weight body. I’d drink this wine over the next 3-5 years. Certified organic. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot LPL 19. 90/A-




Caves du FOURNALET


2021 Saint-Joseph  Cardinal de Saint Ange

Technically, there’s nothing wrong with this wine. It’s just that it has no great character whatsoever — completely boring. What little there is of the dark plum fruit in a medium-weight body comes out only after substantial exposure to air. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol.  84/F