Another mixed lot. (Continue reading here.)
A mixed set of wines from a mixed range of vintages. (Continue reading here.)
As I've previously stated, one has to be careful about overripeness in Loire reds for 2018-2019-2020, but producers who were able to master that challenge were able to produce good and even excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
Recent vintages have produced mixed in the Loire, but with careful selection, very good wines can be found, and generally at bargain prices.
These wines are all from Cabernet Franc as the dominant or sole grape. (Continue reading here.)
More brilliant wines from 2020 and some surprising 2021s from the Western Loire. (Continue reading here.)
We turn now to Carnuntum. In the past, it has been known for easy-drinking red wines, but it is now trying to move up the quality scale. Blaufränkisch seems to be the grape of the future in this area that is south and southeast of Vienna.
I tasted thirty-five wines from 2020 and 2019. I reproduce only my notes on the better wines; as for the rest, they ranged from not especially interesting to seriously flawed. Unfortunately, we did not have any wine from Trapl or Markowitsch, both producers of high reputation. (Continue reading here.)
Perhaps historically the most typical wine of Vienna is the Wiener Gemischter Satz. It now must be made of at least three different grapes with no more than 50% being of one grape and less than 10% being of any grape. There are some stunning wines to be had here. (Continue reading here.)
As with the Grüner Veltliner from Wien (Vienna), the overall Riesling quality is honorable even though not up to the level of some of the more celebrated regions to the west, and Mayer am Pfarrplatz here, too, is a revelation. (Continue reading here.)
Vienna is not as famous for Grüner Veltliner as the regions to the west such as Wachau and Kamptal, but these wines are quite honorable, and in the case of Mayer am Pfarrplatz, a revelation. (Continue reading here.)
Wine from Vienna dates back to the Middle Ages, but relatively recently, increased attention has been paid to it as it is clear that it can produce wine that is more than just for quaffing in a Heuriger (wine tavern often in the vineyards) on a fine day.
We start with Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from vineyards newly designated as Erste Lagen. (Continue reading here.)
Despite its name, Roter Veltliner is not related to Grüner Veltliner, but like Grüner Veltliner, it makes white wine. Wagram is the main area where it is cultivated.
The vine tends to be quite productive and needs to have yields severely limited in order to produce quality wine.
From the villages of Fels am Wagram and Ruppertstal. (Continue reading here.)
From the villages of Fels am Wagram, Feuersbrunn, Grossriedenthal, Grossweiersdorf, Mitterstockstall, Oberstockstall. (Continue reading here.)
From the towns of Grossriedenthal and Ruppertsthal. (Continue reading here.)
From the towns of Getzersdorf, Inzersdorf, Neusiedl, and Reichersdorf. (Continue reading here.)
From the villages fo Gedersdorf, Oberfucha, Rohrendof, and Senftenberg. (Continue reading here.)
From the villages of Furth, Krems, and Rohrendof. (Continue reading here.)
From the villages of Krems, Rhohrendof, and Senftenberg. (Continue reading here.)
From the villages of Gedersdorf, Krems, and Stratzing. (Continue reading here.)
From the villages of Furth, Gedersdorf, and Palt. (Continue reading here.)
From Hollenburg, Rohrendorf, Senftenberg, and Stein. (Continue reading here.)
From Langenlois, Kammern, and Strass im Strassertale. (Continue reading here.)
From Zöbing and Langenlois, more great wines. (Continue reading here.)
Anyone who has any doubt that Heiligenstein is one of Riesling’s greatest vineyards need only taste through this selection of wines. (Continue reading here.)
The producer group Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW) has been working for thirty years on a classification of the best vineyards, originally in the Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, and Wagram districts. They now have been joined by the Wien (Vienna) and Carnuntum districts, and hope is that eventually all wine districts in Austria will be covered.
So far the best vineyards have been classified ÖTW Erste Lage (First Growth), but work is being done now to try to pick out those First growths that will qualify as ÖTW Grosse Lage (Great Growth). It is expected that the ÖTW Grosse Lage will comprise about 5% of the vineyard surface and ÖTW Erste Lage will comprise about 15% of the vineyard surface
The wines from the ÖTW Erste Lage vineyards are marked on the label by a symbol with a a “1" followed by “ÖTW" linked together to look like a grape bunch.
The Gaisberg vineyard exists in three communes, Zöbing, Kammem, and Strass. I did not taste any Riesling from the Strass portion. (Continue reading here.)
Grüner Veltliner from Rosatz and Mittermasdorf to finish the Wachau reviews (Continue reading here.)
More Grüner Veltliner from Loibenberg and also from Mauternbach. (Continue reading here.)
A number of superb Grüner Veltliners from the village of Spitz. (Continue reading here.)
Grüner Veltliner came to the world’s attention through the Renaissance of Austrian wines in the 1990s. It has proved to be such a fascinating and versatile wine that it is now being planted in Germany, France, Italy, and the New World to see if they can come up with anything similar. But the true masterpieces remain in Austria, and 2021 is as splendid for GV as for Riesling. (Continue reading here.)
Finishing up the Wachau Rieslings, here including a couple of non-2021 wines. (Continue reading here.)
From the town of Dürnstein. Knoll is, as expected, magnificent. (Continue reading here.)
More great wines, all from the village of Weissenkirchen. (Continue reading here.)
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The festival continues with more wines from Spitz. (Continue reading here.)
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The 2021 vintage in Austria has received much acclaim. In September, I was privileged to attend a series of tastings of the wine in Austria and I found the advance publicity largely deserved. We begin here with beautifully-crafted Rieslings from the Wachau. (Continue reading here.)
This estate holds vines in both the Nahe and the Rheinhessen areas, but the Rheinhessen vines are just over the boundary in Bingen, so that for all but the political boundary purposes, they are Nahe wines.
Production in the Nahe is small but there are many high-quality producers. The two best-known in recent decades have been Dönnhoff and more recently, Schäfer-Fröhlich, but there are a number of others that are worth seeking out, including the wines from Salm, at the northern end of the Nahe region.
The estate dates to 1200, the oldest German estate still in private hands, and one of the oldest estates in operation anywhere.
The estate was a founding member of the Nahe chapter of the prestigious VDP organization. Moreover, Prinz Michael Salm, former head of the estate, was for 17 years the president of the overall VDP. His son, Felix Salm, has in recent years taken over the estate and the wines, which were already excellent here, are now perhaps even better.
Beginning in 1988, the estate converted to organic agriculture, one of the early estates in Germany to do so. (Continue reading here.)
Recent vintages have been challenging in the region due to problems such as frost, hail, and scorching weather. Each wine has to be evaluated on its own, not by vintage. (Continue reading here.)
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Bonnaire is located in the village of Cramant on the Côte de Blancs. Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, it has long been a favorite of mine. (Continue reading here.)
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The estate has long been one of my favorites. For many years, it was known as Agrapart; now the current principal, Pascal Agrapart, has added his first name to the estate, although not all labels may yet reflect that fact.
Seven wines are produced, of which I review four here. All wines are from estate grapes on the Côte des Blancs. (Continue reading here.)
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All wines are red except for the Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage Empreinte du Rhône. (Continue reading here.)
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Of recent vintages, 2020 may be the most consistent, as these wines demonstrate.
All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)
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Recent Northern Rhone vintages have been quite mixed. In 2019, especially, overripeness was frequently a problem, while in 2021 I have found wines that showed phenolic immaturity. Choose carefully.
All wines below are red. (Continue reading here.)
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Good Michel, poor Keller. (Continue reading here.)
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More promising than the Weisser Burgunder from Baden. (Continue reading here.)
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A slightly more satisfying group. (Continue reading here.)
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Here, too, a poor showing for Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here,)
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A small, but not very edifying, showing for Württemberg Weisser Burgunders. (Continue reading here.)
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Very good wines here, even if not the finest of Weisserburgunder vintages. (Continue reading here.)
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Weiss Burgunder (also known as Weiß Burgunder, Weisserburgunder, Weißerburgunder, and Pinot Blanc) performs uniquely well in Germany, and especially in the Pfalz region, where at its best it can be racy and pure. (Continue reading here.)
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Only two wines shown here at the Wiesbaden GG Preview, but they show that Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder) need not be a neutral, boring wine. (Continue reading here.)
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Frühburgunder is an earlier-ripening version of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and quite similar in overall presentation.
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I’m very sorry to say this, but some of the Ahr wines are just bad to my (Burgundy-trained Pinot Noir) palate, but others are clearly technically-flawed and should not have been allowed by the VDP to bear the GG designation or any designation related to VDP. (Continue reading here.)
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This is a region where I’ve rarely producers making wines that I could appreciate. That appears to be especially the case in 2020. Given the catastrophic losses of so many producers in 2021 as a result of the floods, I hesitated to post my notes on Ahr wines, but finally decided that if they were willing to label them as GG and show them, consumers were entitled to my views on the wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Alas, less promising wines here than with the Höllenbergs. (Continue reading here.)
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Wines from this vineyard have a track record of long ageability. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the northern part of Rheinhessen, less prestigious for Pinot Noir than the Wonnegau in the south, but still producing wines of interest. (Continue reading here.)
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Two winners and two losers. (Continue reading here.)
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Here we have Kinipser, one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir producers; Rings, who’s still a new kid on the block but rapidly demonstrating that he deserves to be in the top tier; and Philipp Kuhn, who may be just a little bit behind those two but also produces excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the central part of the Pfalz, some producers whom I normally like were somewhat disappointing in their 2019 offerings. Perhaps the wines have begun to close? Or perhaps its the character of the vintage here. (Continue reading here.)
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There are some good wines in this set, but not at the overall level of the Schweigen wines or the wines from these producers that I have seen in certain other vintages. (Continue reading here.)
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Schweigen is on the border with Alsace and these producers have some vines in French territory that is allowed to be labelled as German wine. (Continue reading here.)
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Somehow, most of the producers here just don’t make Spätburgunder that speaks to me. Dautel is the major exception. (Continue reading here.)
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A mixed bag here. (Continue reading here.)
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More outstanding wine from Fürst and an attractive one from Luckert. (Continue reading here.)
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Fürst is way ahead of everyone else . . . but you already knew that. (Continue reading here.)
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The wines of Ihringen finish off the Baden GG’s. (Continue reading here.)
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In the wake of the tragically premature death of Bernhard Huber, his wife and son continue to maintain the estate as one of the two finest for Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) in Germany (along with Rudolf Fürst). (Continue reading here.)
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Finishing off the report on Riesling GG; Spätburgunder up next. (Continue reading here.)
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Continued quality in Franken in 2021. (Continue reading here.)
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More mostly excellent wines. (Continue reading here.)
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Moving to the last Riesling region, Franken, the excellence of the vintage continues. (Continue reading here.)
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Much more interesting results from this part of the region. (Continue reading here.)