More brilliant wines from 2020 and some surprising 2021s from the Western Loire
Thibaud BOUDIGNON
A few years ago, I was at a restaurant in Paris where they don’t let you see the wine list; instead, you either take their recommendations or describe what you are looking for and they bring you something. I said that I wanted a Loire Chenin Blanc to go with my meal and was brought a glass of something remarkable for its clarity, precision, and focus. “C'est Boudignon,” the waiter offered without my even asking. It was the first time I’d heard the name, but I’ve been on the search ever since.
Thibaud Boudignon is originally from Bordeaux and began making his wines in 2009. He is located in Savennières and follows organic and biodynamic practices but is not certified.
2020 Anjou Blanc
This wine is from vines about 12 miles (20 km) south of Angers, on schist slopes on the left bank of the Loire. Boudignon has produced a magnificent wine here with lemony fruit in a medium-weight body, perfectly balanced by acidity that keeps the focus and crystallinity. A wine of finesse, intensity, and penetration. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 92/A
2020 Savennières Clos de Frémine
This is a wine of great finesse, intensity, and precision, all seamlessly bound together. The nose shows honey and beeswax along with white fruits. The mouth features orange zest flavors with a pleasing bitterness and great length. This wine is from the lieu-dit behind the Clos de la Hutte, on sand and schist soils. The vines here are young, planted in a massale selection in 2015. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 95/A+
Château de la GRANGE/Comte BAUDOIN DE GOULAINE
2021 Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu sur lie Tradition
Muscadet that I’ve sampled so far from 2021 has been mixed in quality, but this one is a winner, on par with the exceptional quality one found in the region in 2020. The wine is light in weight, bright, clear, and crisp, with very good energy and freshness. Agglomerate cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot LLG001. 90/A
Manoir de la GRELIÈRE/R. BRANGER & Fils
2021 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie Vieilles Vignes Réserve
This is reliably among the better Muscadets I know and certainly the best value. 2021 posed many problems for Muscadet producers, and so it’s not surprising that this wine isn’t up to the quality of the outstanding 2020, but there’s still plenty to like here. The wine is light in weight and has light acidic support to go with sea salt aromas and flavors and some light citric fruit. There’s a bit of roundness to the wine coming, I suspect, from just a little residual sugar — but the wine tastes dry. The vines here are 50-100 years old. Cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. 88/B+
Jo LANDRON
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie La Louvetrie
Yet another top Muscadet from the 2020 vintage. The wine is light with intense lemon fruit that is underscored by the acidity that plays against the slight creaminess of texture. Certified organic and biodynamic. DIAM 1 closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. 90/A
La PÉPIÈRE/Domaine de la PÉPIÈRE/Rémi BRANGER, Gwénaëlle CROIX
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Merci
In spring 2021, a disastrous spring frost hit many Muscadet producers, wiping out a large portion of the crop. Domaine de la Pépière was one of those very hard hit, losing most of the 2021 crop. In order to offset the revenue loss for the 2021 vintage, La Pépière, which is the allied negociant operation of Domaine de la Pépière, purchased wine from two neighboring producers who do good work, and combined the wines into this one. As I’ve previously said, 2020 is a fabulous vintage for Muscadet, and this wine shows it — clear, smooth and round but with just the right bite, and with salty, lemony aromas and flavors and a hint of peach; excellent density and freshness. Perfect for drinking over the next 2 years or so. DIAM 1 closure. 12% stated alcohol. 90/A
2021 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Briords cuvée vieilles vignes
Here is the estate Briords from Domaine de la Pépière, a rarity in 2021. This is a powerful wine, no doubt resulting from concentration due to the tiny yields in 2021. It can be drunk now, but I think the wine will be better if cellared for 2-3 years, and it certainly will be capable of aging several years beyond that. It shows lemon and grapefruit aromas and flavors and decent acidity with a slightly creamy texture. Certified organic and biodynamic. Diam 5 closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L221B.
Domaine des PERRIÈRES
2021 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie vieilles vignes
Although this wine has the crispness and bite of traditional Muscadet, it lacks overall integration. There are unusual (albeit not unpleasant) honey overtones in the nose and mouth, possibly suggesting some botrytis, and the typical sea salt aromas and tastes in the 2020 version are not present here. DIAM 1 closure. 12% stated alcohol. 85/C
Domaine La PETITE FESSARDIÈRE/Domaine La FESSARDIÈRE
2021 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie
Lacking just a bit of bite to give the desired crispness, this wine nevertheless is pleasant enough to drink with its sea salt aromas and flavors and a little citric fruit peeking through. The wine is fermented in oak and bâtonnage (sitrring of the yeasts) is employed. Certified organic. DIAM 1 closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L16082235897. 87/B