The 2021 vintage in Austria has received much acclaim. In September, I was privileged to attend a series of tastings of the wine in Austria and I found the advance publicity largely deserved. We begin here with beautifully-crafted Rieslings from the Wachau.
Christoph DONABAUM
2021 (Spitz) Offenberg Riesling Smaragd
Light airy, a bit more structure and acidity than Johann Donabaum’s Offenberg below. 93/A
Johann DONABAUM
2021 (Spitz) Offenberg Riesling Smaragd
Mineral peach and apricot in nose and mouth, airy, long, pure. 94/A
2021 (Spitz) Setzberg Riesling Smaragd
Lemony, some acidity, medium-weight, a bit of life. 92/A
F. J. GRITSCH
2021 (Viessling) Kalkofen Riesling Smaragd
Good acidity keeps this wine almost dry. Rather closed; sensual texture, some stoniness. 90/B+
2021 (Spitz) 1000-Elmerberg Riesling Smaragd
Yellow peach and nectarine fruit, smooth, almost creamy texture. 93/A
Franz HIRTZBERGER
2021 (Spitz) Hochrain Riesling Smaragd
Peach nose, light body, peach in mouth, airy, long. 93/A
2021 (Spitz) Setzberg Riesling Smaragd
Lemony, medium-weight, a little too much residual sugar for me makes the wine less lively than I’d like. 89/B
PIEWALD
2021 (Spitz) Biern Riesling Smaragd
Hint of celery seed, round clear, medium-light. 92/A
SCHNEEWEIS
2021 (Elsam) Trenning Riesling Federspiel
Medium-weight, crisp, off-dry, incipient white peach and apricot. 93/A