2021 Wachau Grüner Veltliner Part I -- Schön and Kalkofen from Josef Gritsch, Högl, and Piewald

 

Grüner Veltliner came to the world’s attention through the Renaissance of Austrian wines in the 1990s. It has proved to be such a fascinating and versatile wine that it is now being planted in Germany, France, Italy, and the New World to see if they can come up with anything similar. But the true masterpieces remain in Austria, and 2021 is as splendid for GV as for Riesling.




Josef GRITSCH


2021 (Viessling) Schön Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 

Medium-weight, some power, mineral, closed. 90(+)/B+


2021 (Viessling) Schön Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 

Perfumed, floral nose. Medium-light, sensuous, falls in layers on the tongue, incipient yellow peach. 94/A




HÖGL


2021 (Viessling) Schön Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 

Mineral nose. Medium-weight, light on palate, mineral white fruits, good length. 92/A


2021 (Viessling) Schön Grüner Veltliner Smaragd   Alte Parzellen

Spiced peach, roses, medium body, round acidity. 94/A




PIEWALD


2021 (Viessling) Kalkofen Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 

Round, smooth, almost soft. Some roses, but not deep or long compared to better ones. 90/B+




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