Miscellaneous Red Loires Recently Tasted Part III: Coteaux du Loir, Menetou-Salon, Sancere, Saumur-Champigny from Delaporte, Gilbert, Ch. du Hureau/P. & A. Vatan, Janvier, A. Lambert

 A mixed set of wines from a mixed range of vintages.



Matthieu DELAPORTE


2020 Sancerre  Chavignol  (rouge)

Matthieu Delaporte has crafted a beautiful, elegant, silky version of Pinot Noir with pure, precise bing cherry fruit. So much finesse here. This is an estate to watch for. DIAM 10 closure. 13% stated alcohol. 90/A


2020 Sancerre  Silex (rouge)

This is a longer-term version of Delaporte’s Pinot Noir than the Chavignol above. Alas, I fear that too much ambition may have been detrimental here. This wine is richer and more powerful than the Chavignol with riper fruit, but, at least for now, without the balance of the former. DIAM 10 closure. 13% stated alcohol.  87(+?)/B




Philippe GILBERT


Certified organic and biodynamic.


2020 Menetou-Salon  rouge

From Pinot Noir, this wine is round and plump with a velvet texture and ripe red fruits, but no complexity at this point. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol.  87(+)/B




Château du HUREAU/Philippe et Agathe VATAN


2018 Saumur-Champigny   Tuffe

A good expression of Cabernet Franc with dark fruit, a medium-weight body, concentration, intensity, balance, and freshness. This wine drinks well now and can age 5-10 years. DIAM 5 closure. Lot LSC1805.13.5% stated alcohol.  88/B+




Pascal JANVIER



2020 Coteaux du Loir   Cuvée du Rosier   Pineau d’Aunis

No real Pineau d’Aunis character here — that is, no floral and white pepper elements, no nervosity. Nonetheless, this is an enjoyable wine to drink with a medium-full body, velvet texture, and dark fruits. Agglomerate cork closure with cork disks at top and bottom. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 19.  87/B




Arnaud LAMBERT


2021 Saumur-Champigny   Saint-Cyr-En-Bourg   Terres Rouges


This is an elegant wine with spicy, dark Cabernet Franc fruit and a smooth texture, but very little penetration, at least for the moment. It’s pleasant to drink, but not compelling. Agglomerate cork closure. 11-14% stated alcohol.    87/B



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