Loire Reds Recently Tasted Part II: Bourgueil, Coteaux Vendômois, Sancerre, and Saumur-Champigny from Breton, Chanteleuserie/Boucard, Chantres, Colin, and Cottat

As I've previously stated, one has to be careful about overripeness in Loire reds for 2018-2019-2020, but producers who were able to master that challenge were able to produce good and even excellent wines.



Catherine & Pierre BRETON


2020 Bourgueil   Franc de Pied

This is Breton’s wine made from ungrafted vines. At this point, it is difficult to judge, even after having been open a day. The dark fruits are dense, deep, and intense, but overall the wine is still rather brutish. I’d plan on cellaring it for a dozen years or so. Certified organic and biodynamic. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 17. 88(?+?)/B




Domaine de la CHANTELEUSERIE/Thierry BOUCARD


2020 Bourgueil   Cuvée Alouette

This is a fairly simple wine, but one that wins with its open, direct, spicy Cabernet Franc fruit in a medium-weight body. I’d drink this wine over the next few years for its ebullient fruit. Vinc agglomerate cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot L.AL.20. 88/B




Château de CHANTRES


2019 Saumur-Champigny   Les Sablets

From vines that are about 20 years-old, this wine is intense and spice with pure Cabernet Franc aromas. The mouth is direct and penetrating with fresh, dark fruits, especially crushed blackberries. This is the easiest to approach of the three reds made here, and I would expect it to be best over the next 3-5 years. Certified organic, to have been certified biodynamic in 2021. 89+/B+




Vignoble COLIN


Formerly known as Domaine Patrice Colin, I’ve been positive on this estate for some time and it is now beginning to receive the recognition that it deserves.


2021 Coteaux Vendômois   Pierre François

This is a delicious wine to drink cool; it has plenty of fresh, floral dark fruits and a little soy and ink thrown in. The wine is a blend of Pineau d’Aunis, Pinot Noir, and Gamay. The back label suggests five years of cellaring potential, which is reasonable to me. Certified organic and biodynamic. DIAM 5 closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot Nº 216.  89/A




Eric COTTAT


2020 Sancerre   La Vallée des Vignes 

One consequence (so far) of global warming is the vast improvement of Sancerre rouge, even from relatively unknown producers such as this. This wine is medium-light with mineral strawberry fruit and good intensity. A decade ago, one would have been delighted to find Bourgogne rouge of this quality. Agglomerate cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol.  86/B




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