Christophe Drag, like most producers, characterized the vintage as relatively easy to do. Even for the nights at the end of April where there was the risk of freeze and so vignerons took up places in the vineyards to light fires to stave off the frost, he didn’t have to light a fire because the humidity in his position was sufficient to prevent freezing.
He began harvesting on 8 September. There was very little chaptalization here — only for the wines that would be sold off. As usual, all grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations were very slow, and indeed a few barrels were still continuing when I visited on 29 October. This is the largest harvest at Chauvenet since 2009.
2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Those seeking fine Burgundy at a relatively moderate price will want to search this wine out. The wine shows attractive kirsch and sour cherry aromas and flavors. This is a wine full of charm, elegance, and freshness. (89-91)
2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Ravioles
Christophe has been very careful not to extract too much here. The fruit is darker here than in the Bourgogne, but with some red cherries showing through. The wine is medium-light with good length, lightness on the tongue, and some spice. (89-92)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Lavières
In the past, the Nuits, Lavières has been a U.K. exclusivity, but it appears that some will be exported to the U.S. for 2017. The wine features smoky dark fruit with good clarity and greater density than for the Ravioles, but the wine is still light on the palate with smoothness of texture despite a tannic underpinning. (91-93)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges
The regular Nuits is from the Saint-Julien, Saint-Jacques, Allots, and Charmotte lieus-dits, all on the Vosne side of the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges (as is Lavières). The wine has smoky fruit, perhaps better purity than the Lavières, along with salinity and lightness on the palate. The wine is smooth on the palate without being lax.(90-92)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Argillas
Planted in 1991, these are the youngest vines in the domaine. The nose shows spice, cassis, and kirsch elements. The mouth displays more weight and density than the village Nuits with good purity to its kirsch flavors. The wine has length and good structure, but the tannins are round. (91-93)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes
The Nuits-Damodes has oriental spices in the nose, suggesting its position near the Vosne border. The mouth shows dark plums, good finesse, lightness on the palate, and very good intensity. (92-94)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots
Like the Ravioles, this is another vineyard where Christophe takes care not to over-extract the wine. The wine is light on the palate and shows spices with dark fruits (especially cassis and dark plums), and there is good freshness here. It is a very pretty wine. (92-94)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux
The Nuits-Rue de Chaux displays a large variety of red and dark fruits, but especially cassis. The wine is smooth and light on the palate with no hardness that can often appear in Rue de Chaux wines. (92-94)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Poulettes
Chauvenet’s Nuits-Poulettes is pure and stony in the nose. The mouth features dark berries, minerality, tension, and good structure. The wine is light on the palate and fresh. It is a wine that can be drunk young or aged. (92-95)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières
The Nuits-Perrières is extremely stony in the nose. The dark fruit in the mouth is deeper than that of the Poulettes. The wine shows good tension, but due to the vintage, not the usual energy. The wine is long in the mouth and the texture is velvet. (92-94)
2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
Last, the Nuits-Vaucrains is intense and deep with more richness than the others, but it lacks the usual tension and energy. The fruits are dark and there is good structure here. (91-94)