Wines from Piedmont and Lombardy Part II (COGNO, FONTANA, GIAMELLO, Di MIRAFIORE, MOSSIO, NEGRI)




Elvio COGNO

2018 Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello Anas-Cëtta
Nascetta is a white grape indigenous to Novello, where Cogno is located. Cogno is the pioneer of its revival, going back to 1994. The nose is mineral with some chocolate overtones. The mouth is smooth and round with density and some minerality. 88/B+

2018 Langhe Nebbiolo   Montegrilli
Floral/mineral nose. Mouth is mineral and pure with intense red fruits and good liveliness. A top-notch Langhe Nebbiolo. 90/A

2015 Barolo    Ravera
Still tannic, intense, deep, lively, promising. 92+/A



Cascina FONTANA

2017 Barbera d’Alba
Smoky nose, dark fruits in mouth, smooth texture, balanced. I’m generally not a fan of the Barbera grape, but this is a good one. Raised part in large wood, part is concrete. 89/A

2015 Barolo
Smooth texture, dark fruits, chocolate and strawberry. Not terribly tannic, drinking well already, as is the case with many 2015 Baroli. 90/B+



Silvio GIAMELLO/La LICENZIANA

2016 Barbaresco   Vicenziana
Relatively approachable compared to other 2016s I’ve had, many of which include fierce tannins. Round, medium-weight with red cherry fruit. Just a little bit too much alcohol on the finish. Should be better in 4-5 years. Cork closure.  Lot L 18.18.14.5% stated alcohol. 92/A
   


Casa E. Di MIRAFIORE

2016 Barbera d’Alba Superiore
Soy and earth notes, medium-light in mouth, not tannic. 86/B

2013 Barolo   Lazzarito
Soy aromas and flavors, intensity, smoothness on palate. 89/B



MOSSIO Fratelli

Old vines and high altitude give Dolcetto wines that take some aging, in contrast to most. The first two wines are raised in stainless steel, the third in botti (large wood containers).

2017 Dolcetto d’Alba    Piano delli Perdoni
Light and fresh with raspberry and cherry fruit. Vines date to 1967. 88/B+

2017 Dolcetto d’Alba   Bricco Caramelli
Intense dark fruits, some tannins, good acidity. 60-year old vines, yield only 1 kg of grapes/vine. 88+/B+

2016 Dolcetto d’Alba Superiore    Gamus
Dark fruits with tannic underpinnings. Can still take some aging. 45-year old vines. 88+/B+



Giulia NEGRI

2015 Barolo    La Trartufaia
80% from vines planted in 2004 in La Morra’s Serradenari and 20% from fruit purchased from 40-year old vines in Brunate. Given the hype, I was expecting a big letdown, but this is actually a very good Barolo that drinks well now, and the price ain’t too bad for Barolo. The wine is sensual in texture, medium-light in weight, has some salinity, spice, truffles and red fruits. Not the profound experience of the top tier in Barolo, but a good, solid, enjoyable one at a reasonable price in today’s market. 14% stated alcohol. Lot LB15T18. 90/B+