(Please see my overview of 2018 in the Côte d’ Or here.)
François Millet said that harvesting began on 30 August. Out of caution not to over extract, only the Bonnes-Mares received punch downs (pigeage), and yet these wines are notable for their dark opaque colors. Alcohols range from 13.5º to 14º. Yields were about 20% less than in 2017, roughly 30 hl/ha vs. 35 hl/ha. In order to delay malolactic fermentation, the cellars were air conditioned, but it was necessary to go down to 5º C (41º F) to accomplish the delay.
Millet says that 2018 is a vintage that is out of time, and as such it must not become a benchmark for judging other vintages.
This is one of the most memorable cellars that I visited while tasting 2018s.
2018 Chambolle-Musigny
Dense, concentrated blackberry nose and mouth. A powerful wine, but balanced. Easy to drink now, but will need a long time to fully unfold and may well close up in the interim. (90-92)
2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
A bit of dark fruits in the nose, but it is mostly closed at this time. Mouth is smooth, supple, and caressing with dark fruits unfolding in layers. Very impressive potential, but patience required. One of the greatest versions of this wine (declassified Musigny from vines less than 25 years old) I can recall in more than twenty-five years of annual tastings in this cellar. (94-96)
2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
Floral and raspberry aromas. Intense and dense in mouth with fresh, concentrated fruit. Complete. Great wine, but needs loads of time. (95-97)
2018 Bonnes-Mares
Blackberries and a touch of iron in nose. Mouth is intense, pure, penetrating, but not layered like the other wines -- instead it’s a much more direct delivery. Freshness. Quality tannins. (95-97)
2018 Musigny vieilles vignes
This is like the Chambolle 1er Cru (young Musigny vines) but with much greater concentration and complexity. There is layering on the tongue with a circus of blackberry, cherry, and spice cake flavors. Great finesse here. But this is a wine that at this point seems to need 25 years to full maturity, and it is a serious candidate for greatest wine of the vintage. (97-99)