Domaine de la BORDE/Julien MARESCHAL
2016 Arbois-Pupillin Naturé Foudre à Canon
Naturé is another name for a wine from the Savagnin grape and generally refers to wines in the non-oxidative style. The grapes for this wine come from blue clay schist soils from the Lias (Jurassic) era. The wine was raised 24 months in large ovals (foudres). It has some roundness and richness but also freshness to go with minerality and a medium-weight body. But it is a little loose in structure. It is an excellent wine for hard or soft cheeses, fish, poultry, pork, etc. Lot LFO16. 13% stated alcohol. 87/B
CHAMP DIVIN/Fabrice et Valéry CLOSSET
Certified organic and biodynamic.
2018 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Cuvée Chanson
I’ve already tasted enough 2018 whites to know that a large part of them are low in acidity and lack structure. This is not one of them. The wine is medium light with lemon, hazselnut, and a bit of tropical fruit in both nose and mouth. The acidity is sufficient to provide structure and freshness. I’d drink this wine over the next 3-4 years. Lot CH180319. 13.5% stated alcohol. 90/A-
2018 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir
For moment, this is a dense wine with lots of volume and powerful dark plum and berry fruits that are just short of jammy. Tasted blind, I would immediately think of a New World wine. But my experience with Burgundies from hot sunny vintages is that they sometimes turn into something more classic if one gives them enough time (think 1989 and 1997 for better producers). That may happen here, too, especially as the stated alcohol is a relatively modest 13%. Lot LPM180319. 87(+)/B
FRUITIÈRE VINICOLE D’ARBOIS
This wine is from a cooperative in Arbois. In the past, I’ve had some very successful, inexpensive wines from them, but these two, from challenging vintages, are a little below the others in quality.
2017 Arbois Chardonnay
The usual stoniness and minerality are instead replaced by tropical fruits. It’s acceptable as Chardonnay but disappointing as Arbois. 13% stated alcohol. 86/C
2018 Arbois Chardonnay
There’s more firmness in this wine than in the 2017, a slight herbaceousness, not much minerality, and an overall lack of character. 13% stated alcohol. 86/C
Raphaël FUMEY et Adeline CHATELAIN
2016 Arbois Chardonnay
This is my first experience with the wines from this 15-ha estate, and I am favorably impressed, even more so for the price. This wine is clear, mineral, citric, and medium-light with good grip. In short, a classic Jura Chardonnay. For near-term drinking. (Non-oxidative style, of course.) Lot Nº C1625719. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A
Domaine GENELETTI Père & Fils
2016 L’ÉTOILE Foral
No grape type given here on the label or on the estate’s website, but it must be 100% Chardonnay or close to that with perhaps an insignificant amount of Savagnin mixed in. In the non-oxidative style. This wine is fresh and crisp with stony, mineral Chardonnay fruit in a medium-weight body, and there is some grip here. For near-term drinking. Lot L 16. 90/A-
Domaine des MARNES BLANCHES/Pauline et Géraud FROMONT
2018 Côtes-du-Jura Chardonnay En Quatre Vis
This wine is a beautiful expression of the singular lemony minerality that Jura Chardonnays have. It is dense, intense, mineral, deep, and long; a delight to drink now but with good aging potential. Certified organic. 12.5% stated alcohol. 92/A