(Please see my overview of the 2018 vintage in the Côte d'Or here.)
Were it not for 2014, 2017 would be the best white Burgundy vintage I have seen. But there are exceptions, and this estate proves it by producing 2018s that are the equal to, and maybe even better than, the outstanding 2017s. The estate goes by the name Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey and Domaine Martelet de Chérisey, depending on the market, The vines are all located around the estate in the village of Blagny, and so are at relatively high altitudes. Although not well known, it produces some of the greatest white Burgundy that I know.
Were it not for 2014, 2017 would be the best white Burgundy vintage I have seen. But there are exceptions, and this estate proves it by producing 2018s that are the equal to, and maybe even better than, the outstanding 2017s. The estate goes by the name Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey and Domaine Martelet de Chérisey, depending on the market, The vines are all located around the estate in the village of Blagny, and so are at relatively high altitudes. Although not well known, it produces some of the greatest white Burgundy that I know.
Harvesting in 2018 began on 23 August and finished on 1 September. The harvesters looked for the parts of each parcel that were ready and then came back subsequently for the parts that needed further ripening. Alcohols are 12.5-13º. All wines went through malolactic fermentation. Vinification and élévage were 1/3 in tank, 2/3 in cask.
2018 Meursault Bois de Blagny
What a fabulous wine, and only at the village level in classification. Mineral and steely in the nose. The mouth is pure, racy, clear and mineral with Chardonnay steeliness, purity, and acidity. From vines planted in 2006 at 400 m altitude. (92-94)
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumaux
The vines here date originally to 1946, and now also include a portion replanted in 2013. This is the lowest altitude vineyard in the domaine -- 280 meters. Lime, purity, minerality in nose and mouth, richer and more powerful than the Bois de Blagny, still very clear in the presentation. Despite power, very race, finesse and fine acidity. (91-94)
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne
Mineral, steely nose. Mouth is round, nervy, pure. Good depth, penetration, finesse, energy, and precision. From two parcels, 1/3 younger vines, 2/3 older vines, both harvested and pressed the same day, aged in 2 barrels of 330 l. (93-95)
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny
Denser than La Garenne, pure, lemony, energetic, rainwater clarity, good acidity. A lovely touch of hazelnut. 1.70 ha of vines, almost all from just after World War II, a small part from 2000 (that previously had been an abandoned garden). (92-95)
2018 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte
Old vine density, excellent acidity, racy, perhaps not quite as mineral as the Hameau de Blagny; citric fruit. The vineyard comprises 5ha, 4.70 is planted in Chardonnay, the rest in Pinot Noir. The vines date to various times, with an average age of about 65 years. Deep white marl soils. (92-94)
And from one of the very few Blagny vineyards still planted in red (some Pinot Noir was scheduled to be planted in 2020 in the estate’s La Pièce Sous Bois vineyard):
2018 Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte
This gorgeous wine is from vines planted in 1934, and so the yield is quite low. 20% whole clusters, 12-15 days of vinification with daily pumping over. No new oak. In 2018, there was some sunburn here that required going through the vineyards to remove the affected grapes. Strawberry and earthy aromas. In the mouth, good density, fresh, sappy red fruits. About 12.6º alcohol. (91-93)