Long a region for ski wine, things have been changing, and there's an increasing number of producers of interest here.
Domaine des ARDOISIÈRES/B. OMONT
This producer is working with organic and biodynamic methods, although there appears to be no certification at this point.
2016 Vin des Allobroges Argile blanc
Made 40% from Jacquère, 40% from Chardonnay, and 20% from Mourvèdre blanc grown on marly schist and limestone-clay soils and raised 1/3 in old oak barrels, 2/3 in tank, this wine is light and subtle with fine acidity and rainwater freshness. It has delicacy, so don’t pair with strong foods; dink a an aperitif, with a white fish, or cheese. Lot AB 16. 11% stated alcohol. 87/A-
2016 Vin des Allobroges Argile rouge
This delicious wine is 80% from Gamay, 20% from the apparently indigenous Persan grape, both made entirely with whole clusters. The wine is raised in barriques that are 3-5 years old. The resulting wine is very similar in style to a red Burgundy with plenty of strawberry and red currant fruit in both nose and mouth, a medium-weight body, and good acidic support. If you come across the wine, I highly recommend you try it. The producer’s website suggests up to five years’ aging potential. Lot AR 16. 12% stated alcohol. 90/A+
Domaine des CRAY/Adrien BERLIOZ
As with Quénard below, there are various producers in the region with this surname. Certified organic.
2015 Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron
This wine is from the Roussanne (not Roussette) grape. It is round and sensuous with a satiny texture and apricot jam fruit (but not jammy), at the same time being sumptuous and light. 13% stated alcohol. Lot 01. 92/A
Marie & Florian CURTET
2015 Vin de Savoie Chautagne Terroir des Roches Fortes
This young couple recently took over the Jacques Maillet estate in Savoie. The wine is from Gamay and is nothing short of delicious with cassis fruit and just a slight bit of earthiness to add complexity. The wine is light and smooth on the palate, perfect for lighter meals. Marie has worked with Gilles Berlioz. No certifications on the label, but I understand that this wine will satisfy natural wine fanatics. 12% stated volume. 89/A
FINOT
2016 Coteaux du Grésivaudan Persan
Persan is a grape found (under various names) in Savoie, Val d’Aosta, and Piedmont. Prior to phylloxera, it was more widely planted, but today it is extremely rare, although sparking quite a bit of interest and making a comeback. In the late 19th century, the famous French viticulturalist, Jules Guyot, speculated that Persan was related to Pinot Noir. That hypothesis has since been ruled out by DNA testing, but the similarity of wines from the two grapes is clear. Lots of red, especially strawberry, fruit here in a medium-weight body, good density, some tannins, good depth. The wine is rustic for now but impressive and (who knows?) may age very well. 12% stated alcohol. 88/A
E. J. JACQUARD
2018 Roussette de Savoie Altesse
Jacquard has a reputation as one of the best Savoie producers, but this is the first of his wines I’ve come across. I’m favorably impressed. This is a light-weight wine with intense apricot fruit and good enlivening acidity. I’d drink over the next few years as an aperitif, with poultry and white meats, seafood, and cheese. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A
Famille PEILLOT
2015 Bugey Mondeuse
This delightful wine is medium-light with fresh black raspberry fruit, hints of violets. It shows good structure, but the tannins are round and the wine drinks well already. There’s even a hint of laciness! 12% stated alcohol. The main label says lot LXIII, but that probably is an old label; the neck label, which has the vintage, says LXV. 91/A