Good wines here, but I found a bit more of a spread in quality than I usually do. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine DUJAC (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Part II: Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel
Please see here for background on the vintage and development of the wines in cask. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine DUJAC (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Part I: Village and Premier Cru Reds Tasted from Barrel
These wines had been racked just two or three weeks prior to my visit, and some of the wines were being sulfited at the time of my visit, making them more difficult than usual to taste.
Harvesting began on 5 September. Yields were generous in vineyards that had suffered from the frost in 2016; for those vineyards that escaped the frost, such as those in Morey-Saint-Denis, the quantities were big, but not as big as for the previously-frosted vineyards.
Use of stems was normal here, about 85%. Many of the malolactic fermentations began early, and most were finished by March.
My reviews here are only for the estate wines, not the Dujac Fils & Père wines. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle, Tank, and Barrel
Michel Royer said that he began harvesting on 9 September, 15 September for the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. All red wines were destemmed. Quantities were “normal" and overall a bit more than in 2018.
The malolactic fermentations generally finished in January through April, although the Bourgogne and Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits finished later.
The wines are good expressions for the vintage, offering pleasure for early and medium-term drinking while other vintages, such as 2015 and (what little there is of) 2016 mature in the cellars. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine MUGNERET-GIBOURG (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Harvesting began on 4 September in order to avoid overripeness in the grapes. Yields were “good" — that is, "normal" quantity (which hasn’t been seen in many recent vintages), but not at the limits; 2018 will have higher yields than 2017.
All grapes were destemmed. Malo-lactic fermentations finished in late 2017 and early 2018, and the wines were racked in July 2018.
The estate continues to take back property that had been under sharecropping agreements (métayage). In particular, it will take back Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Vosne-Romanée, and Echézeaux vines, putting the estate up to 8 ha in size, with a little sharecropping still left of village Vosne and Echézeaux left under Pascal Mugneret.
Unsurprisingly, beautiful, pure wines here for those lucky enough to obtain them. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Robert GROFFIER (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel Samples
Nicolas Groffier said that he began harvesting on 7 September, finished on the 12th or 13th. Malolactic fermentations finished in May and June, as usual. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 from Barrel Part II: Grands Crus and Vosne-Romanée Premiers Crus
(Originally published 24 November 2017.)
See here for the introduction to Grivot’s 2016 vintage.
(Continue reading here.)
See here for the introduction to Grivot’s 2016 vintage.
(Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel, Part I: Regional, Village, and Nuits-Saint-Georges premiers crus
(Originally published 24 November 2017.)
Harvesting began here on 27 September. As always, the grapes were entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished between spring and late August — not especially late for Grivot in my 30 years’ experience tasting in this cellar.
Harvesting began here on 27 September. As always, the grapes were entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations finished between spring and late August — not especially late for Grivot in my 30 years’ experience tasting in this cellar.
For the most part, the frost did not affect the Vosne-Romanée holdings, but the Suchots and Brulées are down about half from a normal vintage. Clos Vougeot is down about 30%, Nuits-Pruliers about 80%, and Nuits-Roncières 35%. No Chambolle-Musigny "Combe d'Orveaux" was produced. In a good year, the estate produces 240 barrels of wine; in 2016, it produced 187 barrels.
All wines had not been racked. If everything continues all right, they will not be racked until just before Christmas. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean GRIVOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Mathilde Grivot said that harvesting here began on 12 September. There was a green harvest three weeks prior to the harvest. The start date was later than many to allow for ripening of tannins; the sugars remained constant during this time, and the acidities good.
Grivot has been using increasingly less new oak. For 2017, the Bourgogne has 20% new oak, the village and premiers crus 25-30% new oak, and the grands crus 30-35%.
Malo-lactic fermentations began in February and finished in May, with the last ones in June and July. This is relatively early for Grivot, where the cellar is quite cold and over the years I’ve encountered wines still in malo more than 13-14 months after harvest. (Continue reading here.)
RIDGE VINEYARDS -- Spring 2019 National Releases
These wines were released nationally on 1 April. It’s an exciting collection. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean-Jacques CONFURON (Prémeaux-Prissey) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle
My review of the Confuron wines from barrel 2016 is here. The vintage was very small in quantity, but is showing extremely well qualitatively. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean-Jacques CONFURON (Prémaux-Prissey) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 1 November 2017.)
Alain Meunier said that harvesting began on 24 or 25 September.
Alain Meunier said that harvesting began on 24 or 25 September.
Production here was only about 25% of a normal vintage. Worst hit by the freezes were Clos de Vougeot, Chambolle-Musigny, Bourgogne, Côte de Nuits-Villages, and village Nuits-Saint-Georges. There was no production of one of the two Côte de Nuits-Villages, and the amount of the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru harvested was so small that it was blended with the village Chambolle-Musigny.
The estate follows organic practices in the vineyards.
The estate follows organic practices in the vineyards.
The wines from vineyards that did not have whole clusters had slower malolactic fermentations (generally finishing in April) and had not been racked, yet, when I tasted in late October. We began with those wines: (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Jean-Jacques CONFURON (Prémeaux-Prissey) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Alain Meunier said that he began harvesting 5 or 6 September. Over the summer, he had performed a green harvest. Resulting overall yields were about 40 hl/ha, which he described as “generous,” but that’s not surprising given the frost losses in 2016 and the tendency of vines to come back very vigorously the year following such a frost. There was a 2% bleeding of the vats (saigner) for all wines.
All wines that I tasted below were from destemmed grapes; there were some whole clusters in the Bourgogne, but I did not taste that wine, as it was being prepared for bottling or was already in bottle.
Now working with his children, Alain said that there was more maceration and less punching down (pigeage) than in the past, less new oak, and as a result, less use of SO2. The amount of new oak is 20% for village wines, 30% for 1er crus, and 50% for grands crus.
Malo-lactic fermentations took place at various times, some finishing in the January 2018, others finishing not long before I visited in November 2018. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine de l'ARLOT (Prémeaux-Prissey) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottle and Tank and Barrel Samples
Harvesting began on 7 September, said technical director Géraldine Godot. Yields for this estate overall were 28.5 hl/ha, which she characterized as the lower part of normal.
Following my preference, we begin with the reds. (Continue reading here.)
More Recently Tasted Northern Rhônes: Durand, Farge, Ferraton, Marsanne, Paris
All wines are red unless otherwise stated. (Continue reading here.)
Recently Tasted Northern Rhônes: Burgaud, Buryères/Reynaud, Chatagnier, Courbis, Darnaud
All wines below are red unless otherwise specified. (Continue reading here.)
Armand ROUSSEAU Père & Fils (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Harvesting at Rousseau began on 5 September. Yields were “good”, said Cyrielle Rousseau. Excess was contained by taking grapes off the vines in July and August.
As usual, grapes were destemmed, but a small amount of stems was added back to the fermentation tank to aid drainage. Malolactic fermentations finished at the end of January. Alcohols are normal. (Continue reading here.)
Emmanuel ROUGET (Flagey-Echézeaux) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Emmanuel Rouget said harvesting began on 8 September and that quantities were “good.” Most malo-lactic fermentations were early, but not all (this is a cellar where I often encounter late malos, in fact, malos that have not finished when I visit more than a year after the harvest).
The wines start very good and finish with some of the greatest wines of the vintage. (Continue reading here.)
CLOS DE TART (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2017 Tasted from Cask Samples
My visit in November 2018 was with Jacques Devagues, who since has left Clos de Tart to make the wines from the neighboring vineyard, Clos des Lambrays, and other wines from Domaine des Lambrays.
The sale of Clos de Tart had been announced in 2017, just before my visit that year to Clos de Tart. Although Jacques did not say so on my 2018 visit, it was evident that a transition to the more modern style from new-sister estate Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée was coming (and hence not surprising that Jacques would be leaving).
Frost did not affect almost all of Morey-Saint-Denis in 2016, so Clos de Tart is one of the relatively few Côte d’Or estates to have produced less wine in 2017 than 2016 (32 hl/ha vs. 35 hl/ha). 2017 was the third year of organic cultivation and second of biodynamic, both started under Jacques. He said that his goal was to get yields down to 30 hl/ha. I don’t know the goals of the management following his departure.
Jacques said that 2017 was a cold winter, but then in March it turned warm — the warmest March there since 1957. Bud burst was on 30 March and flowering took place on 1 and 2 June, with a quick development. July and August were favorable, and so harvesting took place between 6 and 10 September. Malo-lactic fermentations took finished in May, which is the normal time here.
Contrary to previous vintages under Jacques and before him, Sylvain Pitiot, blending was in July rather than just prior to bottling. The blending included all the plots except the youngest vines, which date from 1999, 2005, and 2011. (Continue reading here.)
Jacques-Frédéric MUGNIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Harvesting began here on 5 September. There was no triage, and Fred Mugnier characterized overall yields as “correct”— 35-40 hl/ha., which is actually modest when one factors in the tendency of vines affected by frost (as most of his were in 2016) to produce abundantly the following year.
All grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations took place at various dates.
This is an outstanding to brilliant vintage at Mugnier; it may not be a collector’s vintage for the reds, but as the French would say, tant mieux! (Continue reading here.)
Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
These are wines Arnaud Mortet is now commercializing under his own name. They are from purchased fruit or land owned with an investor. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Denis MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Arnaud Mortet said that 2017 was a year of high ripeness for him, but less than 2018. He did a green harvest in 2017, removing half the grapes in the young vines that had been affected by the 2016 frost (and so were on their way to abundant production in 2017). Even so, he wound up with 43 hl/ha for his Gevrey vineyards. He did no triage though — were he didn’t do the green harvest and there was dilution, he sold that part off.
There was no chaptalization in 2017 (or 2018). Malo-lactic fermentations began in April 2018, a little earlier than usual. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine FAIVELEY/Joseph FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Part III: White Wines Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples and from Bottle
The wines marked Joseph Faiveley below are négociant wines; the others are estate wines. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine FAIVELEY (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Part II: Grand Cru Red Wines Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples
All the grands crus are exclusively in new barrels and one year-old barrels. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine FAIVELEY/Joseph FAIVELEY -- 2017 Part I: Red Village Wines and Premiers Crus Tasted from Bottle and from Tank and Barrel Samples
Jérome Flous, technical director, said that Faively didn’t really chaptalize 2017, but to do so, it had to wait in harvesting to reach sufficient sugars.
There’s little more new oak than other vintages, he said, because the tannic structure wasn’t fully ripe.
Yields were 40-42 hl/ha on average average.
The Amoureuses (specified as Joseph Faiveley below) is a négociant wine; the rest are estate (Domaine Faiveley). (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Chantal RÉMY/Domaine des ROSIERS (Morey-St-Denis) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 3 April 2018.)
There isn't a lot of wine here, but what there is, is quite good. (Continue reading here.)
There isn't a lot of wine here, but what there is, is quite good. (Continue reading here.)
Jacques-Frédéric MUGNIER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 24 January 2018.)
Frédéric Mugnier said that harvest began on 25 September. Crop size was about half normal. There was no triage and no chaptalization, and all grapes were destemmed. Some alcoholic fermentations finished in barrel, which is unusual. Malolactic fermentations were rather light, mostly finishing in the spring.
Jean et Jean-Louis TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2017 from Bottle and Barrel
Jean-Louis Trapet said that he began harvesting on 5 or 6 September with the whites. Malo-lactic fermentations occurred in spring for some wines, summer for others. Up through the Gevrey-Clos Prieur, 30-50% whole clusters were used; the premier cru Capita and the grands crus are made entirely with whole clusters.
These are outstanding examples of how this vintage should supply wines for the near and medium-term to drink while allowing waiting time for some other recent vintages that are more structured. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2016 Part VII: Grand Cru White Wines from Chablis and the Côte de Beaune
(Originally published 14 April 2018.)
Background on the vintage at Jadot is located here.
As it often does, Jadot blocked full malolactic fermentation in about half the 2016 white wines.
Background on the vintage at Jadot is located here.
As it often does, Jadot blocked full malolactic fermentation in about half the 2016 white wines.
The three Chablis Grand Cru wines below are all from grapes that Jadot purchases and vinifies in large casks. The wines are then aged in oak, about 30% new, prior to bottling. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2016 Part VI: Côte de Beaune Premier Cru White Wines Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 14 April 2018.)
Background on the vintage at Jadot is located here.
As it often does, Jadot blocked full malolactic fermentation in about half the 2016 white wines. (Continue reading here.)
As it often does, Jadot blocked full malolactic fermentation in about half the 2016 white wines. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2016 Part V: Village White Wines Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 13 April 2018.)
Background on the vintage at Jadot is located here.
As it often does, Jadot blocked full malolactic fermentation in about half the 2016 white wines.
Background on the vintage at Jadot is located here.
As it often does, Jadot blocked full malolactic fermentation in about half the 2016 white wines.
As with the reds, there is excellent value to be had from Jadot’s wines from less fashionable appellations. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2016 Part IV: Côte de Nuits Grand Cru Wines Tasted from Barrel
Understand that in 2016, yields in Chambolle-Musigny were tiny. But for those lucky enough to obtain some of these wines: (Continue reading here.)
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Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2016 Part III: Côte de Nuits Premier Cru Red Wines Tasted from Barrel
As with the previous reviews of Jadot's 2016's, there is outstanding quality and consistency in this group of wines.
Note: the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses will be reviewed with Jadot's grands crus. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2016 Part II: Côte de Beaune Red Wines Other than Beaune Tasted from Barrel
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2106 Beaune Red Wines Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 9 April 2018.)
Overall, production at Jadot in 2016 is off 50% from a full harvest. Harvesting for the Côte d’Or wines began on 27 September. As is standard at Jadot, virtually all wines were made entirely with destemmed fruit. Malolactic fermentations were late, some finishing only in August.
The order of the wines below and in coming reviews of Jadot’s 2016s is that in which I tasted them, which is dictated at Jadot by location of the barrels, as the cellar is so large.
Because of the losses due to frost, you may have more trouble than usual locating a specific Beaune vineyard, but the good news is that the quality is very high here across the board. (Continue reading here.)
Bruno CLAVELIER -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel Samples
(Originally published 20 April 2018.)
Bruno Clavelier said that in 2016, he produced only one barrel per hectare (2.3 hl/ha) for regional appellations. For the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru appellations, he was able to produce three barrels per hectare (about 7 hl/ha). Village yields in Vosne were about 15 hl/ha. The Vosne premiers crus made about 27-30 hl/ha. For the Gevrey-Corbeaux and Nuits-Cras, production was more or less normal, and for the Corton, there was only a little frost damage.
Bruno Clavelier said that in 2016, he produced only one barrel per hectare (2.3 hl/ha) for regional appellations. For the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru appellations, he was able to produce three barrels per hectare (about 7 hl/ha). Village yields in Vosne were about 15 hl/ha. The Vosne premiers crus made about 27-30 hl/ha. For the Gevrey-Corbeaux and Nuits-Cras, production was more or less normal, and for the Corton, there was only a little frost damage.
Harvesting began on 21 September and finished on the 25th. Use of stems was a bit more than usual because of the small volumes; overall it was in the 40-60% range. Malolactic fermentations were a bit earlier than usual, beginning in the spring.
As usual, the quality at this longtime organic and biodynamic estate is excellent. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2017 Part IV: Côte de Nuits Red Wine Grands Crus Tasted from Barrel
Although Jadot generally does not use whole clusters, there are some in the Amoureuses and Bonnes-Mares (which I did not sample on this visit) and the Clos Saint-Denis and Musigny, on which I report below. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2017 Part II: Côte de Beaune Red Wines Tasted from Barrel
The reds, in general, have about 30% new oak barrels in 2017. As always for almost all Jadot wines, no whole clusters in these wines. (Continue reading here.)
Louis JADOT (Beaune) -- 2017 Part I: White Wines Tasted from Barrel
Unusually for my visits here (and elsewhere in Burgundy), we start on this visit with the white wines.
Jadot now exploits (owns or farms) 130 ha in the Côte d’Or and purchases the equivalent of about 70 ha more of Côte d’Or grapes/musts/wine. In addition, there are wines from Chablis, the Côte Chalonnaise, the Mâconnais, and the Beaujolais. In short, Jadot is as close as one can come to an encyclopedia of Burgundy terroirs.
Malo-lactic fermentations began very early. As Jadot often does, it blocked the malos for some of the whites. New oak for the whites is around 25% in 2017; usually it has been around 30%.
I give the source of the wine (e.g., Domaine Gagey, Domaine Louis Jadot, etc.) because Jadot sometimes has more than a single cuvée from a given vineyard. Due to the large number of bottlings, I, of course, cannot taste every single wine that Jadot produces.
My overall view of white Burgundies in 2017 is that it is the finest vintage since 2014, which in turn is the finest young white Burgundy vintage I’ve encountered in more than thirty vintages of tasting from barrel. But at Jadot, the 2017 vintage may equal 2014. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine G./Christophe* ROUMIER (Chambolle-Muisgny) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel and Bottle
Christophe Roumier said that he began the harvest on 8 September. Yields were normal; he did a green harvest in Les Cras and Bonnes-Mars, but not in the village Chambolle, Amoureuses, or Musigny.
There were no whole clusters in the Bourgogne, the “normal" amount in the others, about half, except for the Musigny, which is 80% whole clusters.
Christophe said that there was a little less malic acidity than usual and that pHs were a little higher than usual. Malolactic fermentations began in May and finished in June and July.
He characterized the vintage as like 2014, but with a bit less fruit and more minerality and seriousness. He said that it was an easy year to do.
These wines were racked just two weeks prior to my tasting them. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 21 April 2018.)
Harvesting began on 24 September, said Louis-Michel Liger-Belair. Overall losses were about 35% of a full crop. These losses included 99% of the Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes white and 85% of the red from that vineyard, 35% of Echézeaux, 25% of Suchots, and 40% for vines at the bottom of Vosne-Romanée.
Malolactic fermentations were late here.
As in other years, quality is high across the board at this biodynamic estate. (Continue reading here.)
Robert CHEVILLON (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel
Bertrand Chevillon said that the harvest here began on 5 September. Yields were 37-40 hl/ha. Malic acidities were normal and the malo-lactic fermentations finished in spring 2018. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2016s Tasted from Bottle and Cask
(Originally published 23 April 2018.)
Michel Digioia said that for the whole domaine, his production was only 40% of a full vintage. Chambolle, of course, was very badly hit, and no wine was produced from Savigny-les-Beaune.
He began harvesting on 25 September, and the Hautes Côtes de Nuits was harvested on 30 September. Malolactic fermentations were a little later than usual here — the Chambolles finished in April and May, the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits in July. As usual, grapes were entirely destemmed.
One definitely feels the effect of the frost in the concentration of these wines. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine de COURCEL (Pommard) -- 2016 Tasted from Cask Sample
(Originally published 28 April 2018.)
Yves Confuron, of Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot, has also long been responsible for this great estate. The wines are superb, but alas, once again we have a year of minuscule yields.
As is standard, the harvest is very late and the grapes are not destemmed. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine CONFURON-COTÉTIDOT (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2016 Tasted from Barrel
(Originally published 25 April 2018.)
Yves Confuron said that harvesting began on 5 October and he had no problem with the rains that came some days later (presumably all the grapes were in — the small yields made for very rapid harvesting). Overall yield for the estate in 2016 was but 11 hl/ha. As always, the grapes were vinified without destemming.
Year after year, this estate produces, at all appellation levels, some of the most compelling wines in Burgundy to my taste. The village wines are at premier cru level, the premiers crus at grand cru level, and the grands crus at the top of their respective appellations.
The wines may not be as easy to understand as those from other estates and may need more time than many, but the quality here is magnificent. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Bruno CLAVELIER (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2017 Tasted from Bottles and Cask Samples
Bruno Clavelier said that he began the harvest on 5 September with his Corton, and he completed the harvest on 12 September. He characterized the malic acidities as low but correct. Volume was a little more in 2017 than 2018 because hail damage affect some of the vineyards in the latter vintage. In both years, he did some green harvesting to limit yields.
He used a large portion of of stems in 2017, about 50%. Malo-lactic fermentations were early for these wines, beginning in December and January, and finishing by February and March.
Clavelier has organic essentially always and has been biodynamic for about two decades. Simply put, this is a most dependable estate for great wines at every level. (Continue reading here.)
CHANSON (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle Part II: White Wines
This selection of whites is good, but not as impressive as the selection of reds I previously reviewed.
The Savigny-Hauts Marconnets, Beaune-Clos des Mouches, and Corton-Vergennes are estate wines, the Viré-Clessé and Chablis are négociant wines. (Continue reading here.)
CHANSON (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle: Part I: Red Wines
(Originally published 30 April 2018.)
In the latter part of the twentieth century, Chanson, a Beaune négociant dating to 1750, was known for tannic, old-style (not necessarily in the best sense of the term) wines.
In 1999, the Bollinger Champagne house acquired Chanson, including its vineyards. Following a labelling scandal shortly after the sale, Gilles de Courcel was hired to head up operations, and then Jean-Pierre Confuron was handed control over vineyard and winemaking operations. Confuron is the brother of Yves Confuron of Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot in Vosne-Romanée and of de Courcel’s eponymous estate in Pommard. Working with the same methods as the home estate in Vosne, such as late harvesting and use of all whole clusters. Horses are used to plough the vineyards, which are organically cultivated.
New oak is 30% for the wines, tending to François Frères for reds and Damy for whites.
Chanson now owns 45 ha, all on the Côte de Beaune, which in a normal year supplies about a quarter of the total production (which extends from Chablis down to the Beaujolais).
All of the wines below are estate wines except for the Gevrey-Chambertin and the Corton.
As this sampling of the reds (and the sampling of the whites to follow) shows, this is a producer worthy of your serious attention. (Continue reading here.)
2016 Beaujolais recently tasted: Berthier, Breton, Chanrion/Vôute des Crozes, Chignard, Diochon/Paternotre, Drouhin/Hospices de Belleville
(Originally published 4 May 2018.)
This is a classic-styled vintage with very good wines available. Looking down the road, there isn't going to be very much available from 2017 (a statement that applies to all of France, save Burgundy), so you may want to consider stocking up. (Continue reading here.)
More Wines from the Beaujolais and Southern Burgundy Recently Tasted: Dupré, Foillard, Château de Poncié, Robert-Denogent, La Soeur Cadette/Valentin Montanet, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Thévent & Fils, Thillardon, Château du Thivin/Geoffray, Tripoz
(Originally published 5 May 2018.)
More interesting wines from the region, mostly from the 2016 vintage. (Continue reading here.)
RIDGE VINEYARDS -- Spring 2018 National Releases
(Originally published 6 May 2018.)
These are the spring 2018 national releases from Ridge. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine HUDELOT-NOËLLAT (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2017 Tasted from Cask and Bottle
Charles van Canneyt said that he harvest the white (yes, the first Domaine white to be made) on 31 August and began the reds on 7 September. He characterized the yields as “correct" and even “generous" where the vines had been affected by frost in 2016.
There was no whole cluster fermentation. Malic acidities were not real low and malo-lactic fermentations were late. (Continue reading here.)
Domaine Albert MOROT (Beaune) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle
(Originally published 8 May 2018.)
When one thinks of Beaune, one thinks first of the négociants who own large portions of the vineyards. Then there are “outsiders" from other villages, such as Lafarge and de Montille in Volnay, who make Beaune wines that one frequently finds on good Burgundy lists. But there are good vignerons in Beaune producing wine, and none better that I know than Albert Morot.
When one thinks of Beaune, one thinks first of the négociants who own large portions of the vineyards. Then there are “outsiders" from other villages, such as Lafarge and de Montille in Volnay, who make Beaune wines that one frequently finds on good Burgundy lists. But there are good vignerons in Beaune producing wine, and none better that I know than Albert Morot.
As with all producers in Beaune and Savigny, Morot was badly affected by the frost in late April. No wine was produced from Grèves, Marconnets, Dessus des Marconnets, or the white Savigny vineyard. Overall, the estate produced 23 hl/ha.
Harvesting began on 21 September. All grapes were destemmed in 2016. About 30% new oak is used, a combination of Chassin Père & Fils and François Frères, and the toast is medium.
Morot bottled these wines in November 2017, and they appear to be very good for early and medium-term drinking. (Continue reading here.)
Olivier LEFLAIVE (Puligny-Montrachet) -- 2016 Tasted from Bottle
(Originally published 11 May 2018.)
Over the years, I’ve had very little wine from this Leflaive, the reason being that I never found anything interesting that made me want to try more. A couple of years ago that began to change, and others also seemed to notice something going on here. Curiously, this occurred despite the fact that Frank Grux, who has been in charge of making the wines since 1988, still remains at the head of winemaking.
Over the years, I’ve had very little wine from this Leflaive, the reason being that I never found anything interesting that made me want to try more. A couple of years ago that began to change, and others also seemed to notice something going on here. Curiously, this occurred despite the fact that Frank Grux, who has been in charge of making the wines since 1988, still remains at the head of winemaking.
When I inquired of the domaine, I was told that the grapes are now harvested a bit earlier than before, less new oak is used, and there is less bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) than before. Whether that’s the full story or if there’s more to be told, these wines show that there are wines worthy of interest now.(Continue reading here.)
Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY/Pascal BOULEY/Pierrick BOULEY (Volnay) -- 2017 Tasted from Cask and Tank Samples
These wines are sold under slightly different labels in various markets, but the wines are all the same.
Pierrick Bouley said that he harvested the Volnay-Ronceret vineyard on 28 August, and then paused, with the rest of the harvested continuing from 2 to 9 September. Yields were 42 hl/ha, modest considering that vines affected by frost, as almost all of Bouley’s were in 2016, usually produce abundantly. In 2018, Bouley, as with the majority producers I visited, had higher yields, 45 hl/ha for the whole estate.
All grapes were destemmed. There was no chaptalization, and alcohols for the premiers crus are 12.5-13.5º. Other than the village Monthélie, which saw no new wood, new oak is 10-25% on these wines. Malic acidities here were relatively low, and the malo-lactic fermentations went quickly. No SO2 was added until racking.
The wines here are very good and worthy of your interest, especially as this estate is still not fully recognized for the quality of the wines produced. (Continue reading here.)
Recently Tasted Red Wines from Southwest France: Bellevue la Forêt/Grant, Cauvin/La Colombière, Clos la Coutale/Bernède, Da Ros, La Grave/Bernède
(Originally published 13 May 2018.)
Particularly with the shortage of crop in many parts of Europe, wine prices are rising quite rapidly. Some of the best values for your money in France remain in the Southwest. (Continue reading here.)
Recently Tasted Red Wines from Southwest France: Ilbert/Combel-la-Serre, Jouves, Larou/Salmona, Peyros, Lesgourgues, Plageols, Le Roc
(Originally published 14 May 2018.)
Plenty of very good values to be had here. (Continue reading here.)
Plenty of very good values to be had here. (Continue reading here.)
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