Arnaud MORTET (Gevrey-Chambertin -- 2017 Tasted from Barrel



These are wines Arnaud Mortet is now commercializing under his own name. They are from purchased fruit or land owned with an investor.

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin
This wine shows good energy and nervosity, dark fruits, and a medium-full body. It should be more approachable young than the Denis Mortet straight Gevrey; that wine came from lieux-dits in the northern portion of the appellation, this one is mostly from the southern portions, a few from gravelly soils below the route nationale. About 1/3 new oak here. (92-94)

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin    1er Cru   La Perrière
The Gevrey-Perrière is light and pure with finesse, freshness, and mineral raspberry fruit. 70% new oak here, again handled well, and a “little" whole cluster. Alcohol is about 13.6-7º. (91-94)

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin   1er Cru   Lavaux-Saint-Jacques
This wine makes an interesting comparison with the equally excellent Lavaux-St-Jacques that Arnaud makes at Domaine Denis Mortet. Here, the wine has redder fruit and more nervosity, tension, and wildness. Yet it is elegant, too. From three different parcels, each of which adjoins vines from Domaine Denis Mortet. 70% new oak, 40% whole clusters (in distinction from the Denis Mortet Lavaux-St-Jacques, which has very little whole cluster fruit), and very old vines. (93-95)

2017 Echézeaux
From a small plot in the En Orveaux lieu-dit of Echézeaux (Christophe Roumier is exploiting the other half of it), this wine shows sensual Echézeaux texture, red fruits, length, and elegance. This wine is smoother and calmer than Roumier’s at this point, but that could be due to different stages in the élévage. 30% whole cluster, 70% new oak. (93-96)

2017 Bonnes-Mares
Mortet’s Bonnes-Mares has dark fruits, purity, roundness, and smoothness in a mouth that is large but light. Good length here, too, but this wine is still quite primary. The vines are on white soils and Arnaud harvests at the same time as his Gevreys, that is, rather late. 40-50% whole clusters, 70-80% new oak. (93-95)

2017 Mazoyères-Chambertin
The Mazoyères-Chambertin shows red fruits and typical gaminess in the nose. The red fruits continue in the mouth with clarity, almost crystallinity, and none of the rusticity that one can off find in Mazoyères. Good minerality and length here. Arnaud says that this is half from very young vines, half from very old ones. (93-95)

2017 Charmes-Chambertin
This Charmes-Chambertin is from a parcel that Arnaud says is very close to Griotte-Chambertin. The wine is mineral with red fruits. It is relatively simple (As Charmes can be), but it is a happy wine. 70% new oak, 30% whole cluster. (91-94)

2017 Mazis-Chambertin
From a parcel that Arnaud says is the the of Mazis, near Damoy’s Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze. The wine is dense and rich with power and dark fruits, but also with finesse. It is a good example of the Mazis terroir.  (93-95)